front diff swap questions

Y

yotatake2

New member
So I regeared the rear and I'm planning on doing the front today, but before i start pulling stuff off and get myself stranded at the shop at school, i wanted to make sure i know how to do every step. I know you need to remove the two large bolts on the carrier arms (the ones you would remove to install a diff drop) and there's the 12mm allen bolt I need to remove. But I don't understand how you get the CV axles out of the way to remove the diff? Do they have room to simply slide out or do you have to remove the hubs?
any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 
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one more question that's kinda unrelated, but might as well post it here instead of making a new thread. I installed the rear lift about a week after the front lift and soon after i lifted the rear, i began to hear a clunk coming from the front passenger side whenever i braked somewhat hard. I called a suspension place and they said the coil probably isn't seated correctly, but i double checked and it is, plus it had been lifted in the front for about a week before it started making the noise. Anyone know what the clunk could be?
 
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sorry, shoulda used the google function on the forum before asking. i found a good writeup on removing the diff. :sorry:
 
Don't know what writeup you found but take the drive shaft flange off of the diff before you try to wiggle the diff out or it will hang up on the ps rack. Good luck!
 
I found this post http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/112907-pulling-front-diff.html
Oh yah, i forgot about the driveshaft flange, and I guess i also have to pop the axles out of the diff with a chisel and hammer. Will the axles pop back in easily? or will i have to hammer them back in somehow?

Any ideas on the noise when stopping? I also had put in new Moog sway bar linkages in the front and the noise started soon after, so could that have something to do with it? Also, I recently replaced the outer tie rod ends, lower ball joints and LCA's so i don't think those are the issue. I also still need to get it aligned since the lift. Could that be it?
 
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For the clunking, check your control arm bushings. If their cracked it allows the control arms to slide back and forth. Very noticeable when you brake. Lift may have torn them if you didn't loosen the bolts at ride height to allow them to adjust.
 
eatmorechickenx said:
For the clunking, check your control arm bushings. If their cracked it allows the control arms to slide back and forth. Very noticeable when you brake. Lift may have torn them if you didn't loosen the bolts at ride height to allow them to adjust.
Click to expand...

I actually installed new LCA's with new bushings already pressed in when i did the front lift. Are you talking about the upper ones? i shook the tires to see if there was any play in anything and i couldn't feel any play
 
It could be the top ones. Prying on it does not produce nearly the force that stopping 5000 lbs does. Other culprits could be ball joints or CVs. Also, could be coming from the new rear end if the gears weren't lashed properly.
 
Removing CV axles is a job you shuld be cofortable and prepared to do on the trail. With some practice and the right tools, one side should take 15min.

Remove: wheel, center hub nut, 4x lower ball joint bolts and you should be able to swing the entire hub assemply to the rear. You'll have to bump the cv throug the hub with something like the bottom of your hammer.

Then use a pry bar to "pop" the CV out of the diff. Fluid will leak out a bit.

Get the new CV lined up, then use the pry bar and hammer to knock it in. Depending on the type of CV you got, there will be notches in the body of the inner knuckle. That is the only thing you should be banging on.

I highly suggest the NAPA CVs. They have been in my rig for 2yrs now with heavy offroad use.

Please excuse me if I'm missing a step but I haven't touched my truck in 3 months!
 
Jon said:
Removing CV axles is a job you shuld be cofortable and prepared to do on the trail. With some practice and the right tools, one side should take 15min.

Remove: wheel, center hub nut, 4x lower ball joint bolts and you should be able to swing the entire hub assemply to the rear. You'll have to bump the cv throug the hub with something like the bottom of your hammer.

Then use a pry bar to "pop" the CV out of the diff. Fluid will leak out a bit.

Get the new CV lined up, then use the pry bar and hammer to knock it in. Depending on the type of CV you got, there will be notches in the body of the inner knuckle. That is the only thing you should be banging on.

I highly suggest the NAPA CVs. They have been in my rig for 2yrs now with heavy offroad use.

Please excuse me if I'm missing a step but I haven't touched my truck in 3 months!
Click to expand...

I'm not planning on replacing the CV's just yet. Can I just remove the 4 ball joint bolts and pop the CV out of the diff and out of the way? or do I have to completely remove the axle?
 
eatmorechickenx said:
Oh, almost forgot. Try running it with the swaybar links disconnected and see if it goes away. You may need longer ones.
Click to expand...

I just got new sway bar linkages from moog and I put front linkages on all 4 corners so the back ones are longer now. I ran it with the front disconnected and it got better but I could still feel the clunk very faintly once.
 
Seeing as my ball joints, LCA's, LCA bushings, tie rods, sway bar bushings, sway bar linkages and brakes have all been replaced, I'm trying to narrow it down to the UCA bushings, but they look fine.
 
Hey guys I just have a quick question about swapping the front diff and didn't want to start a new thread.

So my rear 3rd member bearings are all wearing out and I have found a used one in great shape on Craigslist but with 4.30's (I have 4.10's), however this guy is also selling his front IFS diff so that will solve the gear issue. I have a 1998 limited with ADD and he has a 2000 also with ADD, my question is will everything bolt right on? Are the electrical connections and vacuum hoses the same on both of our front diffs?

Thanks
Brian
 
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