Front Differential Replacement (Part 2)

[mtbtim]

Hey Dudes,

We decided to make this Part 2 video to add some additional helpful information to make your front differential removal and reinstallation on your 3rd Gen 4runner much easier. We also cover some things in regards to the differential tube, the actuator, and the replacement of the axle seal.

I linked Part 1 as well because Part 1 still shows most of what you need to know to get this job done.

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[4x3Lander]

Just saw you released it on YouTube. As soon as I am done with my work meeting, time to watch!

 

[Romeo1]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] your post in other thread talking about towing and gears reminded me to ask you what’s your thoughts so far? Are you liking the gearing change? What did it improve? Was there anything that regearing didn’t change the way that you thought it would? Fuel economy changes, any improvements or changes there? I’m sure in the mountains it’s probably very noticeable in the overall driving experience.

I’m in that same space right now. Trying to decide on future plans. I’ll be putting an E locker in the front as that keeps it matching with my rear e locker, only question that remains is if I go with 4.88 and 33s or 5.29s and 34-35 tires. I do kinda miss how sporty mine felt on the 225/16 tires and 4.30 gears when I first got it.

Thanks!

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] your post in other thread talking about towing and gears reminded me to ask you what’s your thoughts so far? Are you liking the gearing change? What did it improve? Was there anything that regearing didn’t change the way that you thought it would? Fuel economy changes, any improvements or changes there? I’m sure in the mountains it’s probably very noticeable in the overall driving experience.

I’m in that same space right now. Trying to decide on future plans. I’ll be putting an E locker in the front as that keeps it matching with my rear e locker, only question that remains is if I go with 4.88 and 33s or 5.29s and 34-35 tires. I do kinda miss how sporty mine felt on the 225/16 tires and 4.30 gears when I first got it.

Thanks!

I can notice a difference with the lower gears. It feels like it has better acceleration, like a better band of power that it didn't have before. Is it mind blowing? Not really. My rig is just so heavy that nothing is going to change the fact I have an under-powered engine for what I'm carting around, especially when I'm on a trip and loaded down with gear. I don't check MPG anymore so who knows if it affected my fuel economy.

I haven't driven it that far since the re-gear, but the driving I have done tells me the difference isn't remarkable. Would I spend the money on a re-gear again? I probably would, especially since one of the main reasons was to also get an Eaton E-Locker installed in the front diff and I know that locker in the front will be a game changer.

 

[Devbot]

Front diff removal/reinstallation is really the only thing keeping me from re-gearing, it looks light such a nightmare to do. Probably once I decide to get a front locker I'll tackle it once and for all, but as is it looks pretty dang annoying.
I wonder how crucial that bottom stud is to keep around...

 

[Romeo1]

I can notice a difference with the lower gears. It feels like it has better acceleration, like a better band of power that it didn't have before. Is it mind blowing? Not really. My rig is just so heavy that nothing is going to change the fact I have an under-powered engine for what I'm carting around, especially when I'm on a trip and loaded down with gear. I don't check MPG anymore so who knows if it affected my fuel economy.

I haven't driven it that far since the re-gear, but the driving I have done tells me the difference isn't remarkable. Would I spend the money on a re-gear again? I probably would, especially since one of the main reasons was to also get an Eaton E-Locker installed in the front diff and I know that locker in the front will be a game changer.

If you had to do it again, would you still go with the 4.88, or do you think the 5.29 would make more sense for higher elevations?

Thanks!

 

[mtbtim]

If you had to do it again, would you still go with the 4.88, or do you think the 5.29 would make more sense for higher elevations?

Thanks!

I think I'd probably still run the 4.88s. I have 5.29s on my 85 4runner but that rig has 37" tires. I think the rpms would be a bit too high with 5.29s.

 

[RandyBobandy]

Front diff removal/reinstallation is really the only thing keeping me from re-gearing, it looks light such a nightmare to do. Probably once I decide to get a front locker I'll tackle it once and for all, but as is it looks pretty dang annoying.
I wonder how crucial that bottom stud is to keep around...

If you buy me a round trip ticket I’ll swap your front diff in the parking lot of your dirtiest 24 hour Chinese buffet after eating 15 pounds of mystery meat, you can film it too and probably put Timmy the tool man out of business

 

[mtbtim]

If you buy me a round trip ticket I’ll swap your front diff in the parking lot of your dirtiest 24 hour Chinese buffet after eating 15 pounds of mystery meat, you can film it too and probably put Timmy the tool man out of business

Yep, the revenue from that one video is what's keeping me from living on the streets in a cardboard condo. If you show me how it's done in the Randy Bob Andy fashion, I will loose all credibility in the Toyota DIY Mechanic World.

I hope he buys you a ticket. It would be an entertaining video.

 

[mtbtim]

Front diff removal/reinstallation is really the only thing keeping me from re-gearing, it looks light such a nightmare to do. Probably once I decide to get a front locker I'll tackle it once and for all, but as is it looks pretty dang annoying.
I wonder how crucial that bottom stud is to keep around...

It's not that bad of a job if you follow the tips I share. You could also follow what other people claim makes the job easier. Some claim the removal of the support arms makes it much easier to remove and reinstall the diff. I have not tested this method out yet so I can't speak to it. All I know is the way I've done it many times and it works to make the removal and reinstallation very easy.

Don't let it intimidate you.

 

[RandyBobandy]

Yep, the revenue from that one video is what's keeping me from living on the streets in a cardboard condo. If you show me how it's done in the Randy Bob Andy fashion, I will loose all credibility in the Toyota DIY Mechanic World.

I hope he buys you a ticket. It would be an entertaining video.

Good news is a cardboard condo in California is still like 10 million, and I know your main source of revenue is all those mustache videos, I have a bunch of bootleg copies on vhs with the audio removed and ram ranch playing in the background

 

[mtbtim]

Good news is a cardboard condo in California is still like 10 million, and I know your main source of revenue is all those mustache videos, I have a bunch of bootleg copies on vhs with the audio removed and ram ranch playing in the background

Ah man you found my porn stache video collection.

 

[Romeo1]

Ah man you found my porn stache video collection.

Who wants a mustache ride!

 

[Romeo1]

I think I'd probably still run the 4.88s. I have 5.29s on my 85 4runner but that rig has 37" tires. I think the rpms would be a bit too high with 5.29s.

Thanks Tim for your perspective. I wished I could test drive and wheel a 33”/4.88 and 34-35”/5.29 combo to compare them.

 

[shadow247]

Front diff removal/reinstallation is really the only thing keeping me from re-gearing, it looks light such a nightmare to do. Probably once I decide to get a front locker I'll tackle it once and for all, but as is it looks pretty dang annoying.
I wonder how crucial that bottom stud is to keep around...

Honestly wasn't too bad. I figure I could have the front diff out and on the ground in under an hour, definitely less than 2.

I only loosened the motor mounts and jacked it up about a 1/4 inch to get the clearance needed to remove the diff.

 

[JohnMc]

I only loosened the motor mounts and jacked it up about a 1/4 inch to get the clearance needed to remove the diff.

In retrospect, I think this was the main issue when I've struggled with front diffs in the past. Sagged motor mounts, the motor sinks down a little, and then you have negative clarance in some critical spots.

It all would have been SO MUCH easier if they used a bolt instead of a nut on that back mount.

 

[mtbtim]

Honestly wasn't too bad. I figure I could have the front diff out and on the ground in under an hour, definitely less than 2.

I only loosened the motor mounts and jacked it up about a 1/4 inch to get the clearance needed to remove the diff.

Good to know a 1/4" is enough. I fully disconnect the driver side mount, jack up the engine around 1", put some type of spacer (rubber block) between the mount and frame and then lower the jack to get it out of my way. With that height, there is zero fight to get the diff out, other than the force you need to create to bench press it up.

 

[mtbtim]

In retrospect, I think this was the main issue when I've struggled with front diffs in the past. Sagged motor mounts, the motor sinks down a little, and then you have negative clarance in some critical spots.

It all would have been SO MUCH easier if they used a bolt instead of a nut on that back mount.

I fully agree with you. A bolt for that rear mount would have been nice. I'm thinking they used a stud though because that's a heavy and awkward thing to be holding up while you're trying to align the bolt hole with the cross member. If it were a bolt, you'd have to slide it up onto the crossmember and then get the 2 bolts installed for the front mounts first before trying to get the rear bolt aligned and started.