Front DR Power Window

[TN22Corps]

Helly folks. Tackling a bunk driver's side power window issue with your help, of course.

Well, obviously window does not work. All other switches in the cluster work, passenger windows, locks, and side mirrors.

Originally the window would not roll up but has since been wired up (coat hangar) until I could get to it.

Door panel is off.. now what. I noticed the motor/regulator is sandwiched in the door cavity. With the above criteria, is it safe to say the motor needs to be replaced, or is there further diagnostics to be done?
Bad switch?

I can add pictures if that would help.

Any recommended write ups for this? Search function produced nil.

As always, much appreciated.

 

[Singtoe]

If you are holding your window up with a coat hanger then the regulator must be broken unless you disconnected it to roll it up.

You can chk to see if you have power at the window motor with a test light. If you have power then your switch is good and the regulator is bad. if you do not have power, then the window regulator is good and the switch is bad.


If it is any consolation. I have a window regulator and a master switch that i will sell both to you for $60 shipped. It is in working condition and would solve all of your problems.

 

[TN22Corps]

Thank you for the suggestions. I'll get a test light and check those items out. Not too sure what's going on with the coat hangar, it was a quick fix by the father-in-law and he never got around to finishing the job.

If it's the motor or regulator, is it going to be as awkward as it looks to replace either of them?

Thank you for the regulator/switch offer too, once I get this pinpointed I may be PMing you.

 

[Singtoe]

I can hook you up. $35 shipped for a window regulated and all the bolts and nuts that go with it.

 

[TN22Corps]

Since I've been unable to find much of a comprehensive thread about power window motor replacement, I thought I would post my experiences as I go.

I'm venturing into uncharted territory, so I'd appreciate any 0.02 if you've got the experience.

I took the speaker out so I could handle the motor/regulator easier.

The first diagnosis was isolating the motor. The yellow arrow is the power supply from the switch to the motor. I used a test light, as recommended, up and down on the switch yielded respective "lights" signaling all was well thus far.

The motor is supposed to be attached to the door, either by rivet (in other makes) or bolt. You'll notice, the green arrows show the suspected location of said bolts. I say suspected because neither the regulator or the motor were attached :wow2:. Left in the picture is the coat hangar that was rigged by the in-law as a temporary fix. I'm guessing he removed the bolts so he could get the glass up to keep out the weather.

So, gotta order a new motor and possibly regulator. Will go from there.

 

[TN22Corps]

I hit the trifecta on this one... the lower part of the regulator is broken, the flat coil is missing, and the motor is dead.

I was able to find a new motor/regulator off a '97 at a junkyard for $50. FWIW, a '01 power window motor has a different connection to the power supply, mine required a 2 pin connector.

From here, I just attached the window to the new regulator, attach regulator to door, and then motor to door.

Hindsight, not near as difficult as I had anticipated. I prefer to have as much instruction as possible before I get into things.

So, this is for those people like me

 

[Singtoe]

I hit the trifecta on this one... the lower part of the regulator is broken, the flat coil is missing, and the motor is dead.

I was able to find a new motor/regulator off a '97 at a junkyard for $50. FWIW, a '01 power window motor has a different connection to the power supply, mine required a 2 pin connector.

From here, I just attached the window to the new regulator, attach regulator to door, and then motor to door.

Hindsight, not near as difficult as I had anticipated. I prefer to have as much instruction as possible before I get into things.

So, this is for those people like me

I would have sold you one with all the nuts and bolts for $35 shipped. :ybrick:

 

[TN22Corps]

Ahhh, sorry. I thought you were just selling a regulator and switch for $60.

 

[rbdhd]

I have recently noticed the motor on my drive side window makes a lot of noise when I open/close the window. I'm thinking the motor is getting bad and was wondering if there is any type of maintenance I should do to help keep the motor from burning up. Last night on the History Channel they had a show about grease (Modern Marvels) and they specifically stated that power windows need the motor greased so that had me thinking the sound I hear is because I never greased the motor in my 99 Runner window.
I guess I may need to replace the motor soon if there is nothing I can do to it but thought I would ask.
TN22 – thanks for the post as I’m like you and can never have enough documents to prep for any type of work I’ve never done before and Singtoe you can hold on as you may still be able to sell the one you have as I may need it soon.
Thanks,
dhd

 

[TN22Corps]

I'm not sure about greasing the motor, it looked pretty sealed up. Perhaps, making sure the regulator is free to move so it's easier on the motor.

If you find any definite information stating otherwise, please pass it on.

And, if you have any questions about the process don't hesitate. It was very straightforward and it's fresh on my mind.

 

[Maritimer]

I have recently noticed the motor on my drive side window makes a lot of noise when I open/close the window. I'm thinking the motor is getting bad and was wondering if there is any type of maintenance I should do to help keep the motor from burning up.

I had my door apart today and put some silicone spray in the part of the motor where the magnet is, and some lithium grease on the shaft that goes into the part that has all the gears. Stopped the noise that sounded like my window was going to die.

Had to reset the window after as I had everything unhooked.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/59459-reset-computer-after-window-replacement.html