Front end clunk only when sway bar links on

[Supermoney]

I have new sway bar end links from MStudt on here, been running the rears for years but just got some new front ones after my original ones broke.

Just put them on, take it for a test drive and any time I hit a driveway apron or even a small hole / sewer cap there is a clunk / knocking sound more on the passenger side.

So I took them off and then deliberately hit some big dips and pot holes, nothing. Everything feels tight and no clunks or knocking at all.

I haven no clue what it could be, does anything have any suggestions?

Oh and here is a image of the link, hopefully I am dumb and its somehow installed wrong lol

Thanks everyone

 

[kolelt]

I had the same experience with these links not to long ago. For me, the bottom nut got loose a little. The part that attaches to the LCA. Try double checking the nut. Make sure EVERYTHING IS TIGHT.

How are your sway bar bushings?


*Wait a minute, I thought the nut below the sway bar link, below the second bushing has to be tighten down to the link? preventing the threads from coming lose?

 

[Bobbymudd]

i had a similar problem, ended up being worn out sway bar bushings, however i have not done any suspension mods. hope this helps

 

[JayRolla]

I had the same experience with these links not to long ago. For me, the bottom nut got loose a little. The part that attaches to the LCA. Try double checking the nut. Make sure EVERYTHING IS TIGHT.

How are your sway bar bushings?


*Wait a minute, I thought the nut below the sway bar link, below the second bushing has to be tighten down to the link? preventing the threads from coming lose?

I thought the nut could be moved for adjusting the length.

OP have your replaced the sway bar bushings on the frame?

I also have disconnects, different than those and I also get the noise sometimes.

 

[Supermoney]

I thought the nut could be moved for adjusting the length.

OP have your replaced the sway bar bushings on the frame?

I also have disconnects, different than those and I also get the noise sometimes.

Yes I thought that nut is to adjust the length as well.

Yes brand new energy suspension bushings and lots of grease.

I am honestly stumped, I might put a gopro down there and see if it picks up anything on some big bumps.

 

[kolelt]

I though you loosen the hut. Spin the whole thing to whatever lenght. Tighten the but down ?

 

[fourfive]

^That was my thought too. I think the nut on top of the hex bar has to be tightened down so it is right against the hex bar.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

How much bigger is the hole in the lower control arm than that bolt attaching the heim joint (or spherical rod end) to it?

Also you could also tighten those two nuts and compress the rubber bushings a lot more.


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[Cree]

Not much squish on those upper bushings. Might still be some play up there. Give the upper hardware a look. Stupid question, but have you put hands on everything else up there?

 

[4Reak Show]

Pm'd

 

[kolelt]

^That was my thought too. I think the nut on top of the hex bar has to be tightened down so it is right against the hex bar.

Exactly what I wanted to say just couldn't come up with proper words. I think you only spin the bottom part of the sway bar end. Thus making it taller.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I remember those holes in the lower control arm being pretty big. Bigger than that little bolt holding it tight against the control arm anyway.

I'd also mash those rubber bushings a lot tighter than they are now.

I thought those holes were 12-14mm.


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[Supermoney]

Thanks everyone, will fix the length and tighten the nut down and try again.

Yes everything else is solid.

 

[fourfive]

Also you could also tighten those two nuts and compress the rubber bushings a lot more.

I've wondered if the 14ft/lbs the fsm recommends for the sway bar end link bushings apply to poly bushings. My current poly bushings started to compress beyond the retaining washer well before I even reached 14ft/lbs. I follow the fsm guidelines as much as possible :nerd: & currently have them compressed to 14ft/lbs but debating if I should back off the torque to where the bushings are squished but still within the retaining washer.

 

[MStudt]

The jam nut that's under the bottom bushing needs to be seated against the top of the hex tube. You shouldn't have any exposed threads between the jam nut, and the hex tube. Having them setup this way will cause added stress on the thread, and premature failure.