Front end shimmy when apply brakes.

[jdmidwest]

I know there is a rotor prob with the 99's, does it cause a hard shaking of the steering wheel when you apply the brakes or do I have a CV joint going out?

The brake pads are in good shape, the tires are new and balanced, the front end was just aligned.

 

[Lignum]

does it do it all the time or just when the brakes are hot?

 

[bigtimeweb]

I know there is a rotor prob with the 99's, does it cause a hard shaking of the steering wheel when you apply the brakes or do I have a CV joint going out?

The brake pads are in good shape, the tires are new and balanced, the front end was just aligned.

If it happens ONLY when you brake its definitely your brakes

If you are also getting a lot of nose dive when you are braking your rears aren't pulling their weight, making your front rotors take more heat than they should which leads to warping.

Pop your rotors off get them resurfaced or replace them with a lifetime warranty part. Although a lot of people like to go with vented or slotted rotors cause - well - they look cool - I think its marketing bullshit. Rotors were vented and slotted to let gas escape - thats not an issue anymore - they can potentially allow better cooling, but a solid rotor with a lifetime warranty IMO is just as good.

I just put wagners on with their thermo quiet pads (shimless so you use a spray on brake quiet application on the back instead). VERY nice comfortable pads. Completely got rid of my brake induced shimmy.

Consider popping your rear drums off as well make sure your shoes are okay, and there isnt a bunch of grease in there. If your rear axle seals are leaking oil in there it can give them reason to slip which can also not only feel like a shimmy, but also put undue stress and heat up front.

good luck!

 

[JonK]

My 2000 did the same thing and it was due to warp rotors, as bigtimeweb has said. Purchased Brembo rotors from Tirerack.com and put in new pads (OEM Toyota pads). This is a straightforward job since the rotors pull right off.

 

[jdmidwest]

I will check the rear drums also, the front does nose dive, I thought shocks were going bad. It seems worse in town driving and when they would heat up more. I don't use my E brake alot, but it holds when I do. I have heard that you need to E brake some to keep the back brakes adjusted.

 

[rcdeppen]

I'll second Jonk. I replaced the rotors on my 2000 with middle of the road rotors from Napa. They heat warped in short order. After searching on the forum I followed the suggestion of several and bought some stock replacement Brembo rotors. Even pulling the airboat and repeated stops under heavy load they haven't warped. While it may be tempting to save money on rotors at the parts store DON'T. Even the stock Toyota rotors warp in short order. It won't show up on a brake lathe either until they are really far gone.

I paid $104.00 each for the Brembo's. I added Napa's top of the line adaptive one ceramic pad. Best $300.00 I spent to date. Took me less then 45 minutes to change everything in the driveway.

 

[BTO]

Warped rotors. Common on these.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

Yeah dude, my 99 has all those issues.

Warped rotors is just too hard to avoid on these. If it becomes to big a problem, Tundra 231mm brake upgrade.

My drums ALWAYS come out of adjustment. ALWAYS. Mine has the nosedive feature as well

My shocks and springs are also shot. I'm sure that helps, I have yet to go down the road of "new shocks and springs" land.

So, warped rotors and drum adjustment should be your answer. If nosedive still happens, you might even need new shocks.

 

[Atreyus]

Warped rotors. Common on these.

I had the same problem and it was the rotors.

 

[inshore4runner]

check your steering rack as well. mine does the same thing, and i had my brakes redone less than a year ago. jack the front up by the body and shake the wheels back and forth, they shouldnt move very much, if it is loose, then the outer tie rods are bad. also look at your inner tie rods and check for oil leaking from them(thats wat mine are doing) and rips in the boots. if its the rack, then thats an expensive fix... not looking forward to doing mine this summer.

 

[shampoop]

Areas not directly related to the brake system should be inspected as
they may indirectly cause noise or pull when the brakes are applied.

Tire condition and inflation pressure should be considered.
The pressure and tire size should be equal from side to side
on the same axle. Tire condition may indicate front suspension
problems.

Shimmy: A condition where the front wheels oscillate laterally resulting in rotational movement at the steering wheel.

• Dynamic wheel imbalance
• Excess tire/wheel run out
• Radial force variation
• Excess positive caster
• Excess front toe-in
• Worn/bent steering components
• Worn/bent suspension components
• Wheel bearings
• Excess steering gear lash
• Steering damper
• Structural damage


Loose wheel bearings may allow the disc to wobble on disc brake
systems. This moves the piston farther back into the bore (large
brake clearance) so that additional brake pedal travel is required
to apply brakes. On drum brake systems, the drum cocks which
can cause grabbing and pulling; shoes may drag when properly
adjusted.

Worn suspension bushings or ball joints change front-end
geometry and may cause a pull or drift when the brakes are
applied.

When excessive wheel and tire run-out is present, a vibration may
be felt on brake application. Check the vehicle Repair Manual
for the specific run-out specification. Vibration may also be felt
at cruise speeds. For example, it may come in at 55 mph and be
gone at 60 mph.

straight outta

and