FRONT LIFT: Toytec Eibach Coils vs Tundra TRD

[TCMach]

but how does it ride....??

Not sure how his rides but I have the same setup. I swapped from Tundra coils to toytec eibachs due to height reasons and I got more than I bargained for. Height wise I'm higher on the first perch with the T/E setup than I was on the second perch with the tundra coils. Ride quality wise I have no complaints. On road they are nicer (not like a huge amount but noticable), but offroad is where they shine. Rocks and washboard roads are much better with the T/E setup. With my tundra coils the truck seemed to be a little less planted and was harder coming down ledges and off rocks.

In short, Toytec Eibachs > TRD Tundras.

 

[snivilous]

I ordered the Tundra 5100s last week, and had them arrive on Monday and then drove over to Toytec and picked up the Eibach coils. Got done installing it all today. Rides WAY nicer than before (though I had a front spacer lift and just OME 891s in the back, stock shocks). I am on the lowest settings of the shocks, and sit about level to a 0.5" rake. I like it a lot! I have only gone on two quick rides into town, but it was a very noticeable improvement. I live on a dirt road that's been washed out a lot from all the rain in CO, so it was a good test to see how the suspension flowed over the debris and river channels. What used to rock the truck a lot and have a big jerk is just a smooth bump now. For reference, I have a 90lb front bumper, winch, Hi-lift on the bumper, maybe 25lb sliders, and then a 120lb rear bumper.

For anyone wondering, I didn't get any different rear bushings for the Tundra shocks. Instead I took the stock bushings and put them on our lathe and turned them down to the right OD and worked like a charm. Just used some sockets and a hammer to press out the original bushings. My overall cost was $360 from down south motorsports for the Tundra 5100 full shock set, and then $180 total for the Eibach coils.

And combining the shocks with the Eibachs was a breeze with some spring compressors. Installing was easy too, I just disconnected the sway bar and loosed the UCA bolt and the arms just drooped down. I actually had to jack up the arms on the passenger side because they drooped further than the shocks went.

Also, I read up a bit on the differences Toytec has. The coils alone are obviously just that, the fancier setup is so that you can change the perch level of the shocks without taking them apart (they perch level is controlled by just a snap ring you place in a predefined slot). I don't think it would help much, I just started at the first perch since that's the best ride and then figured I could move up, but it's sitting where I want it so I'll leave it for now.

 

[wheelds]

So i have a baby girl on the way and I've decided to go with a little less lift. I found a pair of TRDs at a local scrap yard for under $100 and I'm just going to throw some OME 906s on the back :tsk: :tsk: :tsk:.

So I've searched and i don't see anybody running the stock OEM bilsteins off of the TRD Tundra struts. Is this because they are too big to fit? Or assume the used struts are at the end of life?

could i save some $$ and run the OEM bilsteins for the time being before switching out to the 5100s? I'm still planning to run the 5100s on the back with the OME 906s

 

[SCRunner12]

So i have a baby girl on the way and I've decided to go with a little less lift. I found a pair of TRDs at a local scrap yard for under $100 and I'm just going to throw some OME 906s on the back :tsk: :tsk: :tsk:.

So I've searched and i don't see anybody running the stock OEM bilsteins off of the TRD Tundra struts. Is this because they are too big to fit? Or assume the used struts are at the end of life?

could i save some $$ and run the OEM bilsteins for the time being before switching out to the 5100s? I'm still planning to run the 5100s on the back with the OME 906s

Some people do run the OEM Bilsteins, but like you said most are at the end of their life or people like just doing the 5100's right off the bat so they don't have to compress everything again and the 5100's achieve more lift. [MENTION=45027]fightman80[/MENTION] has been running the OEM Bilsteins for a while and likes them, but in the end you'll spend more by using the OEM's over just going with the 5100's in the first place.

 

[wheelds]

Some people do run the OEM Bilsteins, but like you said most are at the end of their life or people like just doing the 5100's right off the bat so they don't have to compress everything again and the 5100's achieve more lift. [MENTION=45027]fightman80[/MENTION] has been running the OEM Bilsteins for a while and likes them, but in the end you'll spend more by using the OEM's over just going with the 5100's in the first place.

I thought i read somewhere that the Tundra top hats WILL work on the 4runner? Am i wrong? If that is true technically i still only need to compress the springs once to install the new shocks right? op2:

Either way i appreciate your feedback SCRunner - I hate that i had to go this route after finding a good pair of LC coils. I figured it would be easier to trade somebody for 906s with somebody that wants more lift

 

[SCRunner12]

I thought i read somewhere that the Tundra top hats WILL work on the 4runner? Am i wrong? If that is true technically i still only need to compress the springs once to install the new shocks right? op2:

Either way i appreciate your feedback SCRunner - I hate that i had to go this route after finding a good pair of LC coils. I figured it would be easier to trade somebody for 906s with somebody that wants more lift

They will NOT work. That's why you have to compress them once to add the 4runner top hats, then recompress later if you go with 5100's.

No problem, I was in the same situation for my first lift as well. I went Tundra's with KYB shocks then switched to 5100's. I liked the 5100's better and no top plate spacers.

 

[wheelds]

They will NOT work. That's why you have to compress them once to add the 4runner top hats, then recompress later if you go with 5100's.

No problem, I was in the same situation for my first lift as well. I went Tundra's with KYB shocks then switched to 5100's. I liked the 5100's better and no top plate spacers.

Well pretty much gives me everything I need to know - going all in with a set of 4 5100s, 906s, and 275s at least until my kid is old enough to climb in by herself.

 

[LiebeYotas4x4]

but how does it ride....??

Well, I've only been driving (legally) for about a year and a half now, but I would say they ride pretty nice with the Tundra billy's. It's not too stiff for my liking, but they aren't extremely cushy either, just how a truck should ride IMO.

 

[J. B.]

So can anyone comment on the free length of both these springs?

Thanks!

 

[Limbwalker]

I ordered the Tundra 5100s last week, and had them arrive on Monday and then drove over to Toytec and picked up the Eibach coils. Got done installing it all today. Rides WAY nicer than before (though I had a front spacer lift and just OME 891s in the back, stock shocks). I am on the lowest settings of the shocks, and sit about level to a 0.5" rake. I like it a lot! I have only gone on two quick rides into town, but it was a very noticeable improvement. I live on a dirt road that's been washed out a lot from all the rain in CO, so it was a good test to see how the suspension flowed over the debris and river channels. What used to rock the truck a lot and have a big jerk is just a smooth bump now. For reference, I have a 90lb front bumper, winch, Hi-lift on the bumper, maybe 25lb sliders, and then a 120lb rear bumper.

For anyone wondering, I didn't get any different rear bushings for the Tundra shocks. Instead I took the stock bushings and put them on our lathe and turned them down to the right OD and worked like a charm. Just used some sockets and a hammer to press out the original bushings. My overall cost was $360 from down south motorsports for the Tundra 5100 full shock set, and then $180 total for the Eibach coils.

Hey man, Im about to order this same setup. Whats the deal with the Tundra bushings?? Thanks

 

[snivilous]

Hey man, Im about to order this same setup. Whats the deal with the Tundra bushings?? Thanks

The rear shocks lower bushing is too small to slide over the axle peg. All I did to fix it was to clamp the bushing housing of the shock in a vice and put a socket over the bushing and pound it out -- super easy. I then pressed out the stock bushings and put some lube on the shock housing and popped the stock bushing back into the Tundra shock. It was a piece of cake, you could probably drill out the bushing too but it was a clean and effortless swap of the two bushings. I initially asked DSM who I got the shocks from if they could put the right size bushing in since I wasn't using it on a Tundra, and they said sure but never ended up doing that and it just kicked me in the butt in the future since any issues with the shock then weren't under warranty unless I attempted to convince them it was on a Tundra and I had changed my mind putting them on my Runner, so I wouldn't ask for the right size bushings from whoever you are buying from and just alter the shock yourself. Like I said, it's pretty easy and requires minimal tools.

 

[Limbwalker]

The rear shocks lower bushing is too small to slide over the axle peg. All I did to fix it was to clamp the bushing housing of the shock in a vice and put a socket over the bushing and pound it out -- super easy. I then pressed out the stock bushings and put some lube on the shock housing and popped the stock bushing back into the Tundra shock. It was a piece of cake, you could probably drill out the bushing too but it was a clean and effortless swap of the two bushings. I initially asked DSM who I got the shocks from if they could put the right size bushing in since I wasn't using it on a Tundra, and they said sure but never ended up doing that and it just kicked me in the butt in the future since any issues with the shock then weren't under warranty unless I attempted to convince them it was on a Tundra and I had changed my mind putting them on my Runner, so I wouldn't ask for the right size bushings from whoever you are buying from and just alter the shock yourself. Like I said, it's pretty easy and requires minimal tools.

Nice! easy enough. Thanks, man!

 

[snivilous]

Nice! easy enough. Thanks, man!

Actually after re-reading my previous post on here it looks like I used our lathe to make the stock bushings a small enough diameter to fit in the Tundra shock. So it's not quite as easy as I thought. I would probably just try to drill it out to the right diameter if you can. My bad :wow2:

 

[kolelt]

I have the TRD bought new. I thought they were cheaper than that though...

Either way, IMO, loaded down they ride a lot better. With no added bumpers / winches, etc. Stiff tires and the TRD springs makes for a somewhat firm ride up front. Not jarring, but firm. Helps stabilize though when you have no rear sway bar.

Billy's Tundra 5100's on 2nd perch.

I've heard the Toytecs are softer. You'd run them on the bottom perch because they are longer springs. I wanted to go this route because of cost and descibed ride, but they didn't have any and couldn't give any indication of when they would be in at the time. Eibach only sells to them (at least with that number) and I couldn't find the same springs anywhere else. I believe they also provide slightly more lift too.

Curious to hear what others say. I may swap yet.

You can run eibachs on 2nd perch if it's bilstein tundra shocks.

 

[Limbwalker]

Actually after re-reading my previous post on here it looks like I used our lathe to make the stock bushings a small enough diameter to fit in the Tundra shock. So it's not quite as easy as I thought. I would probably just try to drill it out to the right diameter if you can. My bad :wow2:

No worries man, [MENTION=95040]Cree[/MENTION] sent me a link to some cheap bushings that'll probably work... if not, I'm pretty good at retrofitting stuff (just prefer not to)

 

[Cree]

No probably about it. Myself and several others are running them no issues. Good luck.

 

[beer-toe]

Hey guys im going to pull the trigger very soon here on a lifting my RIG.

I am collecting parts slowly, i already have tundra billys for the front and going to run it with the toytec coil on the 1st perch.

For the rear coil i want to go OME but am undecided on which coil. I have stock bumpers no added weight, but want to level out or have very minimal rake... what would you guys recommend for the rear if i run the tundra billys bottom perch/toytec coil up front?

thanks guys

 

[beer-toe]

bujmp i have money to spend..... going to run tundra billys up front with the toytec coil.

for the rear running the billys but undecided on what rear ome coil....no addittional weight all stock want to sit level as possible...

thanks

 

[SURF RUNNER]

This is a really good thread. More insight into the SS 1.2 front end (Tundra TRD progressive coils with Bilstein 5100s) vs the Toytec front end (Eibachs with the Tundra Bilsteins option) would be appreciated.

Sonoran Steel
Toyota Lift Kits: Lift Kits, toyota, 4 Runner, 4 Runner Lift Kits

Toytec
4Runner 96-02

I was pretty much sold on getting the complete 1.2 Sonoran Steel kit (Tokico shocks in rear) because I continued to hear about how it performs off road and also rides like a Cadillac, etc. My 4Runner is my daily driver and my only vehicle - most of the miles are in the city and on the highway, but I still want it to be capable off road since I will be getting into more off roading as I modify my 4Runner. I liked the fact that the Tundra coils are progressive and would be good for the weight of the ARB and Warn winch I will have on the front. Now I am starting to think that the System 1.2 "You build it/piece it together" option might be better. I still want to get the LC coils/Tokico shocks setup in the rear, but I'm not sure about Toytec or SS for the front.

I have a front ARB bumper and a rear Shrockworks bumper, tire carrier, and jerry can mount taking up space in my apartment. The rear bumper was made to accept a 1" body lift and the ARB bumper can be mounted to accomodate the body lift. I am also planning on a Warn M8000-S winch, 285s with the 5th on the back, roof rack, rock sliders, full skids, etc., so I'm not that concerned about having too much rake in the back since there should be plenty of weight to compensate. Three inches is fine for my build - I don't need or want a lift over 3 inches.

Any more thoughts on these two options?

 

[SURF RUNNER]

There is a new thread on this same exact topic so I thought I would bump this one since it has many more replies and much more in depth discussion. Maybe the mods can merge the posts in the new thread into this one.