Front Range full floating rear anybody?

sleepydad

sleepydad

Senior Member
I'm considering the full rear floating kit. would like to flat tow, mostly. planning on using the OEM axle housing.

if you have purchased and installed the kit?

did you get parts from them or source your own parts?

do you think the kit works well?

it's reliable and will provide many miles trouble free or it's going to need maintenance regularly?

how many miles do you have on your kit?

thanks in advanced
 
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No experience with the kit at all. However, just wanted to reiterate their note about the ABS system having to be "bypassed" to run the kit. Depending on what year runner you have, that could be a pain if you have VSC and all that jazz.
 
and no more ebrake. ABS->speedo worry me a bit more than just ABS. I can live without ABS really.

I purchased the kit and I will have to figure out the ABS deal. have seen some pretty easy work around's for it. people have been using the kit since 2004 I think so there has been some pretty decent support for all new parts as well.

I'm planning on pulling the rear axle assembly today, going to get it blasted and painted. might as well make it all look pretty again if I'm going to all this trouble.
 
sleepydad said:
and no more ebrake. ABS->speedo worry me a bit more than just ABS. I can live without ABS really.

I purchased the kit and I will have to figure out the ABS deal. have seen some pretty easy work around's for it. people have been using the kit since 2004 I think so there has been some pretty decent support for all new parts as well.

I'm planning on pulling the rear axle assembly today, going to get it blasted and painted. might as well make it all look pretty again if I'm going to all this trouble.
Click to expand...

Is the issue just mounting the ABS ring on the new axle shafts?
 
sleepydad said:
and no more ebrake. ABS->speedo worry me a bit more than just ABS. I can live without ABS really.

I purchased the kit and I will have to figure out the ABS deal. have seen some pretty easy work around's for it. people have been using the kit since 2004 I think so there has been some pretty decent support for all new parts as well.

I'm planning on pulling the rear axle assembly today, going to get it blasted and painted. might as well make it all look pretty again if I'm going to all this trouble.
Click to expand...

Powder coat?

It's not in the budget at the moment but I've been looking at that kit since I got my runner 4-1/2 years ago. Is the Front range kit any different than the Diamond Axle kit or are they the same thing?

My 4wd 4runner does have ABS, the 2wd which I had initially intended on converting to a gear driven t/c and solid axle does not have ABS, that would have been better for this conversion but possibly unnecessary since that t/c has a true neutral. My purpose was flat towing as well.

So if you figure out the ABS work around, please share!
 
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[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]

There are a couple members on here that have the kit >> [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] and [MENTION=90485]URBAN ASSAULT[/MENTION]

Brian has developed what's called the Drotor. This setup uses outer components from a 5th Gen 4Runner to retain the rear ebrake. Does require some custom bracketry. I'm not sure they've come up with a solution to retain ABS, however ABS really isn't all that great on these vehicles when you lift them and put larger tires on.

I'm not sure the Drotor setup is doable for you for flat towing though. I don't think you can put manual hubs on it (to allow unlocking). Worth asking Brian.

You're likely going to need early 4runner/pickup spindles and hubs. You can follow my diamond axle build that uses these components >> here
 
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I think yes, but I will know more when I get the base kit, should be on it's way I ordered it.

I think inserting the axle might be strange with an ABS tone ring on it? might not clear the seals? I'm planning on providing all the parts and a vid of doing the build on my youtube. I have been doing vids on things just so I can remember what I did, getting old I forget things.

did one on the front free wheel build

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDivFqFQCus
 
Thanks for the reply

the main thing I'm struggling with at the moment is locating and identifying all the parts. I'm going to go all new parts because I have had mixed results with old parts.

I did get the instructions from FR and they are like "fly to moon return with rocks". um I think you left out some details in there?

would be super helpful to get a list of toyota part numbers.
 
Front Range has been making quality products for as long as I can remember. I'd like to have that real estate in the engine compartment that is being used up by ABS, as that would be a good location for a second battery (especially weight distribution wise. A parking brake could be done with an internal shoe disc setup like Wilwood, (there are some OEM discs like this, but can't remember them right now, Cadillac maybe?).

140-13724_kit-lg.jpg
 
sleepydad said:
Thanks for the reply

the main thing I'm struggling with at the moment is locating and identifying all the parts. I'm going to go all new parts because I have had mixed results with old parts.

I did get the instructions from FR and they are like "fly to moon return with rocks". um I think you left out some details in there?

would be super helpful to get a list of toyota part numbers.
Click to expand...

lol

You can take a look at that link I posted and get an idea of everything you'll need. The only real difference is you will need manual hubs and the locking wheel hub. You can eve use the same brake setup I did.

I also highly suggest taking a look at LowRangeOffroad's youtube account >> here They have instructional videos on how to rebuild an entire front solid axle from early 4runner/pickup. Skip everything knuckle and steering related.
 
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JWaldz said:
[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]

I'm not sure the Drotor setup is doable for you for flat towing though. I don't think you can put manual hubs on it (to allow unlocking). Worth asking Brian.
here
Click to expand...

His first full float kits used locking hubs (i think you supplied them yourself). My brother and a few buddies have run this style for many years.
 
I completely cut out the ABS shit in the back of the axle. Just left the sensor inside. No issues with odometer.
 
Yes yes I know... but your links just go to some toyota junk yard? not really the parts. here is the thing and it's not me be angry or anything but this world kind of assumes everybody just rebuilds 1980's solid axle toyota trucks and everybody just knows what to do... I'm new to the older trucks. my first real toy was a 1992 4runner then a 1995 T100... so I really have never worked on the old stuff. I have been trying to locate all the parts and find the cheapest so... bear with me please. I apologize as I stumble around the dark looking for answers.

FULL-FLOATER CONVERSION
You Need to Supply:

Stock '79-'85 front spindles
SPINDLE SUB-ASSY, STEERING KNUCKLE @2
Toyota Part No: 43401-60012

Gasket, Knuckle Spindle @2
Toyota Part No: 43435-60011

Factory wheel bearings for '79-'95 front axles (inner and outer)
Inner BEARING, TAPERD ROLL @2
Toyota Part No: 90368-49084 Replaced by: 90368-49084-77

Outer BEARING, TAPERD ROLL @2
Toyota Part No: 90368-45087

Inner wheel bearing seal.
SEAL, OIL @2
Toyota Part No: 90311-62001

Factory hubs from '81-'85 solid axle truck
HUB,FR AXLE,W/O BRGS
Toyota Part No:43502-60020

Factory locking hubs from '79-'85 truck
HUB ASSY, FREE WHEEL
Toyota Part No: 43530-39016


Wheel studs (normally can be reused)
Rotor to hub bolts (easily reused, 2 per side)


Proportioning Valve - yea this seems like a really good idea. will find one.
Drive Flange? I don't need this because I will be using free wheel, but maybe this is a good place to start.

these have been very helpful
http://i.imgur.com/oQQFEXW.png
http://i.imgur.com/pPvmhft.png

why not use the rotor and calipers that came with the 81-85?

also why not use the dust shield from the diagram?
 
Seems like a lot of work. I put on manual front hubs and just disconnect my rear driveline when I flat tow.
 
You don't have to buy everything separate.. Marlin Crawler does a good job of sourcing all these parts (OEM) and putting them together to sell as kits. Brian (front range offroad) can do the same for a good price.

I bought my brakes from Marlin and everything else (seals, gaskets, bearings, studs, etc) from Brian.

Here's what you need and everything is for a early model 4runner/pickup ('79 to '83 I believe)

Solid Axle Wheel Hubs (buy from a junk yard, will be cheaper. Then have sand blasted)
Solid Axle Spindles (same as hubs)
Wheel Bearing Kit
Wheel Bearing Nut Kit (nuts, washers, and star)
Hub Seals
Knuckle to Spindle Gaskets
Hub to Body Gaskets
Backing plate eliminator/backing center plate set
Hub Studs
Wheel Studs
Rotor to Hub bolts w/ lock washers (4 total)
Whatever brake setup you go with

The only thing I'm assure about is what you will need for the manual locking hubs as I went with drive flanges.

I think that's everything. Like I said, go through Low Range Offroad's tutorial videos (click) on how to rebuild one of these and you will get a good idea of what you're looking at.
 
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to me this was really awesome once I found it.

Do it yourself, Tacoma Manual Hub Swap

but... it just does not exist for this project and that is a bummer. If something like this exists? thinking more people would try it? it is very confusing if you have not done it and I'm sure that keeps a lot of people from buying the kit.

I do like the challenge of figuring out new things and beating my head on the wall. oh and burning money.
 
ajordan1975 said:
His first full float kits used locking hubs (i think you supplied them yourself). My brother and a few buddies have run this style for many years.
Click to expand...
one of my main concerns with the concept of taking a front end and putting it on the rear is how well it will hold up. especially with open old school bearings and less than perfect seals.

do the people you know have to re-build and re-pack often? like every 10K miles?
 
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