Front Rotors warping

ohio4runner4x4

ohio4runner4x4

New member
I bought the 97 SR5 about 2 months ago.....it had the traditional shimmy when you hit the breaks so I knew it had warped front rotors. I had them turned and put new pads on and it was fine for about 3 weeks...then the shimmy came back. So I bought some brand new China made rotors and they lasted about 300 miles....and the shimmy is back again!!!!!
I'm looking for some help....why do I keep warping rotors? Is there a certain type (Slotted/Drilled/Stainless/OEM) that I should be using? Please let me know if anybody has any info on this...It's beginning to really bother me!:mad:
 
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I got a couple of brand new rotors from AutoZone 2.5 yrs ago. I haven't had any problems since. I was told the warping occurs when a hot surface is met with cold fluid, such as water. So I try my best to avoid water pods on the road as much as possible.

Good luck.

Ikan
 
yea i just turned my rotors about 2 months ago and it seems to come back worse the harder i brake. i feel like on my 4runner it happens cause my tires are so big and so heavy that my stock brakes cant balance it evenly when braking fast from high speeds. the less people in the car the worse it shakes.
 
I have a nice set avail. People have been VERY happy with them.

rotor_front_drilled.jpg
 
Do you offer slotted rotors;drilled ones are notorious for cracking within a year of use and on a 4Runner they just wouldn't be worth the trouble.
 
just out of curiousity i have an idea of the benefits of the drilled and slotted rotors but please enlighten me more on the advantages of drilled rotors and slotted rotors
 
Drilling and slotting rotors allows the gases from heat to escape from the rotor more efficient than a stock rotor
Therefore, there are less gases preventing the brake pad to have contact with the rotormand you have better stopping power.

Drilling is one way to have the heat escape, but some if not drilled properly, are prone to cracking. This is why our drilled rotors are chamfered so that does not happen, ie. the holes are recessed.

Slotting also is another way for the heat to escape but is more harsh when you are using the brake pedal, etc. Meaning, the gases are escaping at a faster rate because the slotting allows it to go straight out of the rotor.

Most people use both drilled and slotted to accomodate both better braking power and comfort, or just do drilled.
 
I saw on your website you have the rotors for both front and rear. Wouldn't you only want front? I thought the rear was only for the hand brake.


Thanks
 
dgw8022 said:
I saw on your website you have the rotors for both front and rear. Wouldn't you only want front? I thought the rear was only for the hand brake.


Thanks
Click to expand...

Correct. Well, some of converted the rear to disc brakes like the front, so the option is there for those people. But yes, 90% of everyone would only get the FRONT, like you mentioned for 96-02's. :)
 
Maybe you are getting hotspots and mistaking them for warped rotors? Do you do any towning or drive moutain roads that require a lot of braking and heating of the rotors? When you stop driving the rotors could still be very hot and the pads kind of melt to the rotors, just a thought.

Steve
 
Jason B said:
Correct. Well, some of converted the rear to disc brakes like the front, so the option is there for those people. But yes, 90% of everyone would only get the FRONT, like you mentioned for 96-02's. :)
Click to expand...

Is it a major difference switching from drums to rotors in the rear? Drums don't look 'cool'. Does it cost a lot for the conversion? If you switch out the front rotors, would you have to/reccommend to upgrade the calipers/pads as well?
 
PioneerMeta4 said:
Is it a major difference switching from drums to rotors in the rear? Drums don't look 'cool'. Does it cost a lot for the conversion? If you switch out the front rotors, would you have to/reccommend to upgrade the calipers/pads as well?
Click to expand...

There is a pretty big difference, but this swap out would cost a small fortune.

You don't need to change the calipers in the front, and you can still leave the stock pads, but the new rotors will cut down on their life. If you have pretty new stock pads, then you could keep them, or if your stock pads are low, you can go with the new cer/met pads. You can read about those on the site as well.
 
It could be the pads that are warping the rotors. I know carbon metalic pads are a lot harder on rotors. You might want to change out the pads and see if that solves your problem.
 
warped rotors on new to me 97

I bought a 97 Limited in August and it too had warped rotors. Other than that the car was near perfect. About a month ago I pulled the rotors and had them turned. Ever since they have felt perfect--no pulsating at all!

A friend said he has had problems with non-OEM pads warping Toyota rotors. I don't know if it's true or not. I didn't change the pads since they looked new.

So far this vehicle has been a joy to own. I didn't like the newer ones as much as the older style. I am very happy so far and I saved over $10K on buying an older vehicle!

If the pulsating comes back I'll go with a set of drilled Brembos.
 
i have had a set of cross drilled brembo's for about 2 years and 75k miles now. all i can is that these upgraded rotors make a hell of a difference. i ended up putting them on with PBR 4x4 brake pads. they worked great. no dust, solid stopping, etc. i them replaced them with the performance friction pads from autozone, and those too are okay. but i liked the PBR pads better. none the less, the rotors are awesome! no fade, no warping, and no cracking. every once in a while though, if i am wheeling in mud, i have to take the wheels off and clean all the drills. they do clog up a bit. but that i also in the new england "paste" we call mud.
 
Some have also switched to the Tundra brake package. Tundra rotors and calipers on the 4runner. They're pretty much a bolt-on and more massive than the stock 4runner rotors.

If you're upgrading the rotors, the extra cost will be the calipers. I spent approximately $260 for new fully-loaded Raybestos calipers. The truck stops like a champ.
 
brakes

I have an 01' SR5 with 72,000 miles and free from the dealer (due to a mess-up), I got new front rotors and pads... but for the future, I will get the cross drilled and ceramic pad set-up from burtmanindustries.com. Definitely will be well worth it since the OEM system is underpowered for our 3rd gens. Especially those who have upgraded wheels and tires.
 
i have also heard great things about Brembo blanks as replacements. They are blank rotors meaning that they aren't drilled or slotted. I have heard that these stop the infamous warping. Check yotatech for the thread about the tundra upgrade. i hear its awesome. i'll be upgrading my breaks this winter, just waiting to see if i will have the money for the tundra set up by then.
 
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