Front Skid Need Jack to Remove?

FamousAv8er

New member
Doing my first oil change post Toyota 2yr/25k service. Was going to tackle all of my filters and fluids yesterday when I quickly learned that dealerships tend not to pay attention to torque specs. The 4 hex bolts attaching my TForce skid were all seized and stripped beyond belief. Honestly not even sure how they removed them last. Decided to cut with a dremel to get a good angle to knock the bolts loose, replaced with stainless, added anti-seize for good measure. So after spending yesterday evening cutting and pounding, I'd like to avoid any more trouble.

I don't currently have a lift installed or a decent jack w/ stands. Will I need to jack up the front end to remove my NON-TForce (factory) skid, or will it just take some finessing?
 
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no jack required- just a bit of finesse to get the front hooks to clear. Antman suggests grinding these tabs to reduce future headaches in his most excellent oil change writeup. But a lift is a much more expensive way to achieve the same result :D
 
Removing front skid plate

Toyota "free" oil change service strikes again! I had the same issue with my factory skid plate. The local Toyota dealer put the skid plate bolts on so tight I couldn't get them off with a breaker bar or impact wrench. I ended up stripping the bolt heads with a 6-point socket so that they could not be removed. I had to cut the plate off so I could hammer and chisel the bolt heads loose. Once I got the bolt to turn it spun off easily.

As you now know, you can't get a tool on the bolt head without first cutting the skid plate away. I used a grinding tool with a cutting blade to make short work of the cutting. (wear eye protection)

I can't tell from your post which skid plate you have. I replaced mine with the RCI skid plates. Much better than stock.
 
I ground the skid plate front hooks off like Antman suggested and then used a cardboard box to set it on to make it easier to put back up. I also drove up on a couple of 2x6's for a little more ground clearance when working under there. Easier and faster than going on a diet. I also used a torque wrench and anti seize on the hardware, and torque wrench on the filter housing.

My only issue it how hard it is to read the oil level on the dipstick - stuff is dam near invisible!
 
Doing my first oil change post Toyota 2yr/25k service. Was going to tackle all of my filters and fluids yesterday when I quickly learned that dealerships tend not to pay attention to torque specs.

I fully agree!

I put the bosh on Toyota service when they couldn't get the first 5,000 service done. My lug nuts we not tightened to spec and they noted that my windshield wiper pump was bad when in fact it was just out of washer fluid.
 
I fully agree!

I put the bosh on Toyota service when they couldn't get the first 5,000 service done. My lug nuts we not tightened to spec and they noted that my windshield wiper pump was bad when in fact it was just out of washer fluid.

Wow, out of washer fluid in 5k. I have 36k and haven’t ran out yet.
 
I have floor jacks , bottle jacks , and steel and wooden ramps ..

I use the solid oak wooden ramps that I fabricated. lifts the 4runner up about 7 inches works great very safe stable and much less time.

ramps are 16 inches wide and 30 inches long ..

your dealership problems are common .. with the hardware issues .. the other problem is they will crank the filter cap on 1 plus rotation beyond the proper point.. lucky they did not damage that filter cap or over torque the oil drain pan plug ...

I just did oil change on a dodge .. family member had the clutch replaced and the transmission manual 6 speed.. well for some reason the screws they used were not the ones I used the last time I did that oil change .. all rusted up and looked nasty old but this is what happens when you have to have dealerships do the work on your ride sloppy work and it is not careful proper repairs..

my 4 runner 2 yrs old july 1 .. never back to dealership and I have no problems doing the oil changes .. pan bolts look like new !!!
 
I had the dealership here do my free oil changes and they also did the timing belt / water pump change in my Tundra. They did good jobs on all the work performed. My skid plate bolts were not stripped and other hardware appeared to be torqued properly. I guess they are the exception based on some of the stories posted here!
 

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