Front suspension solution needed

[T4Jumper]

Hey everyone,

I need a solution to my problem, and advice on what to try next. Since adding my winch, I have rubbing up front (passenger side) and my toytec boss 2.0 adjustable coilovers have seized, preventing me from adjusting them any higher. I experience the rubbing when backing up at full/almost full lock, and turning hard into a driveway with a bump.

My thought was first PB blast the heck out of them and see if I can get them to budge a second time OR try and put a .25-.5 top spacer on the coilover. Does anyone know if a spacer would work on my boss 2.0? I really want to avoid replacing the front suspension until I absolutely have to. I've got about 44k on these and, other than the sag, they have been pretty good.

I have a BMC and front bumper trim. I only need maybe .5" to clear the body mount. My tires are only 285/70's so I should be able to eliminate the rubbing.


Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[comtn4x4]

Hey everyone,

I need a solution to my problem, and advice on what to try next. Since adding my winch, I have rubbing up front (passenger side) and my toytec boss 2.0 adjustable coilovers have seized, preventing me from adjusting them any higher. I experience the rubbing when backing up at full/almost full lock, and turning hard into a driveway with a bump.

My thought was first PB blast the heck out of them and see if I can get them to budge a second time OR try and put a .25-.5 top spacer on the coilover. Does anyone know if a spacer would work on my boss 2.0? I really want to avoid replacing the front suspension until I absolutely have to. I've got about 44k on these and, other than the sag, they have been pretty good.

I have a BMC and front bumper trim. I only need maybe .5" to clear the body mount. My tires are only 285/70's so I should be able to eliminate the rubbing.


Any help would be much appreciated.

What's your caster set at? If you increase it maybe it would eliminate the rubbing. Wheel offset could also be a contributing factor.

When you say they are seized, I assume you mean there is more room to adjust upwards but the ring won't move?

 

[Bassturd]

What are those front springs rates for? Maybe with the added weight of the bumper and winch you need to get heavier front coils.

 

[T4Jumper]

What's your caster set at? If you increase it maybe it would eliminate the rubbing. Wheel offset could also be a contributing factor.

When you say they are seized, I assume you mean there is more room to adjust upwards but the ring won't move?

So the alignment shop never provided me a sheet of the alignment specs, so I have no clue. the alignment itself is perfect.

The offset of the new wheels is definitely a factor. They are the SCS 17x9 -38 offset Ray 10's. Such a beautiful wheel, but no doubt causing me this issue, hence why I just got a BMC. I have read many reviews and talked to people that run them and with a lift and BMC 285s fit without rubbing. I just think that since suspension has settled down so much, thats the main issue.

Yes, by seize I mean the adjustment ring on the bottom won't budge. At least the first time I tried it.

 

[T4Jumper]

What are those front springs rates for? Maybe with the added weight of the bumper and winch you need to get heavier front coils.

the spring rate on the older boss 2.0 is 650

 

[comtn4x4]

So the alignment shop never provided me a sheet of the alignment specs, so I have no clue. the alignment itself is perfect.

The offset of the new wheels is definitely a factor. They are the SCS 17x9 -38 offset Ray 10's. Such a beautiful wheel, but no doubt causing me this issue, hence why I just got a BMC. I have read many reviews and talked to people that run them and with a lift and BMC 285s fit without rubbing. I just think that since suspension has settled down so much, thats the main issue.

Yes, by seize I mean the adjustment ring on the bottom won't budge. At least the first time I tried it.

I'd keep soaking it with PB blaster and see if it will come loose. Maybe find a pipe that will fit on the spanner. However, if you pre load the coils too much the ride will get harsh. (Ask me how I know.) You may need a stiffer coil.

Realistically though it will still rub if the tire gets through enough of it's up travel to hit the same spot. If you don't off road then it's probably not more than a nuisance. If you do, you may want to chop more or get different rims with a lower offset.

 

[T4Jumper]

I'd keep soaking it with PB blaster and see if it will come loose. Maybe find a pipe that will fit on the spanner. However, if you pre load the coils too much the ride will get harsh. (Ask me how I know.) You may need a stiffer coil.

Realistically though it will still rub if the tire gets through enough of it's up travel to hit the same spot. If you don't off road then it's probably not more than a nuisance. If you do, you may want to chop more or get different rims with a lower offset.

Yea, since i do go offroad quite often I'll try soaking it and seeing if it will break loose. It's not terrible rubbing, but if I can fix it with some adjustment i will try. I only should need to turn it a few turns to get the height I need. I could also try and get another alignment that pushes the caster forward more.

Do they make small shim like spacers that work on these types of coilovers? that would be an easy solution i could deal with.

 

[El Dusty]

Yea, since i do go offroad quite often I'll try soaking it and seeing if it will break loose. It's not terrible rubbing, but if I can fix it with some adjustment i will try. I only should need to turn it a few turns to get the height I need. I could also try and get another alignment that pushes the caster forward more.

Do they make small shim like spacers that work on these types of coilovers? that would be an easy solution i could deal with.

Have you adjusted your toytecs in the past? If you can post a picture of them we can see the model and style you're working with.

Im running toytec aluma 2.5s on my rig and have adjusted them a few times. As far as instructions go:
-Lubricate your threads above and below nuts and soak,
-Unweight the front end or at least the side of the truck the coilover you're working on
-Loosen the 5mm set screw just a few turns(I believe the older toytecs have a lock ring that needs to be backed off the main adjustment ring)
-Using the punch provided or a very similiar diameter hardened tool, insert into the ring holes and rotate. Try by hand at first and with a small cheater later if needed.
-Tighten set screw or return lock ring into place after adjustment.
-Driver around the block and measure to see the height change.

If they are alumas just be careful how hard your cranking on the tools with aluminum threads Im always paranoid.

 

[honda250xtitan]

adding a spacer will work but its not ideal. like already mentioned youre only changing ride height so when it compresses off-road it'll still rub. you may need to run longer bolts if you add an aluminum spacer in between the coil bucket and the top of the coilover. a small spacer won't affect the ride much and if youre on aftermarket UCA's you SHOULD have available droop travel for the ball joints.

changing spring rates and reducing preload is prolly the best option

 

[daytonaviolet]

Are you removing the strut off the truck before adjusting ?

 

[T4Jumper]

Have you adjusted your toytecs in the past? If you can post a picture of them we can see the model and style you're working with.

Im running toytec aluma 2.5s on my rig and have adjusted them a few times. As far as instructions go:
-Lubricate your threads above and below nuts and soak,
-Unweight the front end or at least the side of the truck the coilover you're working on
-Loosen the 5mm set screw just a few turns(I believe the older toytecs have a lock ring that needs to be backed off the main adjustment ring)
-Using the punch provided or a very similiar diameter hardened tool, insert into the ring holes and rotate. Try by hand at first and with a small cheater later if needed.
-Tighten set screw or return lock ring into place after adjustment.
-Driver around the block and measure to see the height change.

If they are alumas just be careful how hard your cranking on the tools with aluminum threads Im always paranoid.

When I originally installed them I adjusted them slightly to compensate for a slight drivers side lean, but that was years ago. They are not alumas, they're the older model that adjusts from the bottom. I don't believe there is any locking ring or set screw at all from what i remember.

They look like this:

Are you removing the strut off the truck before adjusting ?

No I'm keeping it on the vehicle. I just lifted the truck up to take tension off the suspension.

 

[T4Jumper]

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[El Dusty]

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I believe you are correct those rings dont have allen set screw or lock rings which seems like a poor design. The other unfortunate part is how low the threads are on the shock body which puts them more at risk of rusting and seizing.

If you get it figured out without pulling the shocks off the truck let us know.

 

[Big Daddy K]

The offset of the new wheels is definitely a factor. They are the SCS 17x9 -38 offset Ray 10's. Such a beautiful wheel, but no doubt causing me this issue, hence why I just got a BMC.

Yep, that's a pretty big contributor.

When adjusting are you taking off spring tension or just muscle the rings up?

 

[daytonaviolet]

When I originally installed them I adjusted them slightly to compensate for a slight drivers side lean, but that was years ago. They are not alumas, they're the older model that adjusts from the bottom. I don't believe there is any locking ring or set screw at all from what i remember.

They look like this:

No I'm keeping it on the vehicle. I just lifted the truck up to take tension off the suspension.

On my truck, with wheels hanging, I couldn’t turn the sleeves to adjust the height. It was just easier to remove the entire strut, compress it and then hand turn the sleeves.

 

[T4Jumper]

On my truck, with wheels hanging, I couldn’t turn the sleeves to adjust the height. It was just easier to remove the entire strut, compress it and then hand turn the sleeves.

Ugh, that's such a pain. I'll try the pb blaster and some muscle with the truck hanging first , then if that won't do it I guess I can try your method.

As it sits it looks like there is plenty of room. It's just that one side that rubs at hard lock that is bugging me.