I just did my front wheel bearings, and you definitely need a press (I have a HF 12 ton, but I also broke it while pressing out one of the hubs, so I had to weld it back together). It is a pretty involved process, so I would agree with Little Caesar that you shouldn't do it unless you have to. I don't quite have a walkthrough in my build thread (link in my sig), but I took some pictures during the process.
You can check the uppers for play when you have the wheel off, but it they look good and feel good, I don't think you need to replace them. They really don't see anywhere near the stress that the lowers see, so they just don't wear out the same.
They do press out, but you don't need a press. You can use a 3-jaw puller. It will take more jigging and be more awkward, but people typically do them without a press.
By the way, there are several good walkthroughs for both front wheel bearings and upper ball joints out there, just not on this site. Use google for a little while and I am sure you will find them.