Fuel Filter Nightmare...

[Coveman]

Have a good look at the threads on both the line and filter to make sure there isn't junk / fod on the threads and compare to the old one (same thread pitch, etc)…DON'T tighten the life out of it, that'll lead to potential stripping / breakage :rain:

There is a possibility that your Toyo dealer has a bad batch of filters, you may want to try another source / brand.

For what its worth, I've used teflon tape for years on my fuel filters to lube the threads without incident. Lubed threads need LESS torque so don't crazy!

 

[RS Dude]

Use another brand filter.:hello:

 

[Suncoast]

I did mine last weekend and was prepared for a difficult time but it only took half an hour at the most. What I did was put the filter in the mount but not tightened in the mount so it could move back and forth then finger tighten the front line first as this one is fixed and not moveable, then install the rear line as this one could move back and forth finger tighten the rear line. then using a flare wrench tighten the front line and then the rear line. Then the mount...Seems to have worked perfect. I'd check the threads in your filter and the fittings to make sure that everything is clean.

 

[Koko4]

Ended up with a solution, after MANY cuss words and gas in the face. Had a friend come over and look at it as well - he thought that maybe the flare on the inside of the new OEM filter was a bit more steep than the flare on the one that came off. We went to AutoZone and looked at their Duralast filter. The flares inside looked a TINY bit different, so I decided for $18 that I'd try it and see what happened. I also bought some Permatex sealer, specifically for use on parts in contact with gasoline.

When I tried it with just the Duralast filter, it leaked even worse than the OEM one did. Took the Duralast filter off, cleaned up the flanges on the fuel lines, and looked them over (as close as I could while lying on my back underneath the 4Runner). It looked fine - decided to try the Permatex with the new OEM filter. Put it on the threads as instructed (after cleaning the fuel lines off), tightened it up, and waited about 30 minutes before trying it, even though the directions said it would be ready for immediate use. No luck - it leaked right past that crap.

Decided to...even though I'm not supposed to...use TEFLON TAPE. Put it on the threads, sealed it back up, and guess what?? NO LEAKS! So it will remain with Teflon tape on it, and I will check on it periodically.

That was a nightmare. Has anyone ever had something similar happen?

I'm just surprised that out of everything I did today - rear window switch lengthening / relocation, fuel filter replacement, and Tacoma Whip Antenna, that the fuel filter gave me the most headaches and took the longest.

 

[Sherwood4Runner]

When I replaced my fuel filter with an OEM it leaked the first few times I tightened it up. I had to loosen and tighten the nut a few times before the threads mated well. It wasn't a matter of how tight I got the nut, but rather the threads seemed to be really finicky. After a few tries I got it tighten so that it didn't leak at all.

 

[4'running'26]

the other option you have is this...

put the old one on... take it to a shop and pay them to put the new one on. you should be able to finalize a labor price before starting. once they run into leaks/crap with the new filter, it's not your 'DIY' headache anymore, and they probably have more experienced people who have run into similar stuff.

Exactly what I did when I couldn't get the nuts off and was afraid of rounding it. When I went back for it the guy said, "You tried to get that off before bringing it here, didn't you?"

 

[Brilliant]

This is actually a pretty good idea if all else fails. Put it in someone else's lap. And they won't charge much to install a fuel filter. I would consider this option OP.

Dealer wanted 1.5 hours for it after I struggled to get on a non-oem filter. I was there to buy the OEM filter and told them yea right. Went to Sears, bought the flare wrench, took 5 mins.

OP, If its not easy something is wrong with part or your lines.

 

[thor999]

It took me MONTHS of spraying Kroil and everything else I could find before I was comfortable removing the old filter. New OEM went on without a hitch, maybe you damaged something on the lines during removal?

 

[LittleCaesar]

Check the end of both lines to see that the flares are not bent or have cracked.

 

[nevada]

Ended up with a solution, after MANY cuss words and gas in the face. Had a friend come over and look at it as well - he thought that maybe the flare on the inside of the new OEM filter was a bit more steep than the flare on the one that came off. We went to AutoZone and looked at their Duralast filter. The flares inside looked a TINY bit different, so I decided for $18 that I'd try it and see what happened. I also bought some Permatex sealer, specifically for use on parts in contact with gasoline.

When I tried it with just the Duralast filter, it leaked even worse than the OEM one did. Took the Duralast filter off, cleaned up the flanges on the fuel lines, and looked them over (as close as I could while lying on my back underneath the 4Runner). It looked fine - decided to try the Permatex with the new OEM filter. Put it on the threads as instructed (after cleaning the fuel lines off), tightened it up, and waited about 30 minutes before trying it, even though the directions said it would be ready for immediate use. No luck - it leaked right past that crap.

Decided to...even though I'm not supposed to...use TEFLON TAPE. Put it on the threads, sealed it back up, and guess what?? NO LEAKS! So it will remain with Teflon tape on it, and I will check on it periodically.

That was a nightmare. Has anyone ever had something similar happen?

I'm just surprised that out of everything I did today - rear window switch lengthening / relocation, fuel filter replacement, and Tacoma Whip Antenna, that the fuel filter gave me the most headaches and took the longest.

that type of fitting doesn't seal on the threads, but instead on the tapered fitting.

if it was leaking before the tape...its still leaking. just now the tape is containing it to between the taper and the threads. not ideal, but I suppose if NOT LEAKING was the goal.

was the old filter bad/clogged? unless you cant blow through it easily, I would be reusing it I until I was able to get a replacement that seals properly.

 

[my92t4r]

I did mine last weekend and was prepared for a difficult time but it only took half an hour at the most. What I did was put the filter in the mount but not tightened in the mount so it could move back and forth then finger tighten the front line first as this one is fixed and not moveable, then install the rear line as this one could move back and forth finger tighten the rear line. then using a flare wrench tighten the front line and then the rear line. Then the mount...Seems to have worked perfect. I'd check the threads in your filter and the fittings to make sure that everything is clean.

This worked for me.