Fuel injector replacement, fuel rail stuck?

pwxford765

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I have a misfire on cylinder 5. So I have bought a replacement injector in hopes that this replacement will solve my issue.

While I do not need to to take the intake plenum off it seems that I am stuck with the fuel rail not being able to budge. I have taken the two bolts off on the fuel rail already.

Anybody have any pointers to remove the fuel rail. Not so sure how much force I should be applying to the fuel rail to release it from the injector.

I have a 1998 4Runner with the 3.4.

Thanks.
 
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After 5 hours, I ended up taking the intake plenum off. Once I had access to all 4 bolts that hold the fuel rail in place I was able to remove the cylinder 5 injector.

Put everything back together and started the truck and sounded like something was wrong on the cylinder 3 injector as it was leaking fuel. From here I tore everything down again and used the old o ring off of the old cylinder 5 injector and proceeded to put it back together.

Started it up and it sounded better but after a minute or so of idle I noticed there was fuel everywhere under the truck.

Throwing in the towel for tonight. I hoping autozone sells a package of o rings. I am planning on replacing all of these tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes my problem.
 
You really need to be careful here, You don't wanna burn down your rig! any time you expose an o-ring, you should replace with a new o-ring. You should probably do them all while your in there anyway. Be sure to put some oil on the new rings so they are less likely to nick while you carefully put things back together. Make sure all three banjo fittings are right, and you should be good.
 
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Yeah, you can't reuse the O-rings OR the copper crush washers. They will be molded to the old fitting from when it was built in the factory and cannot be used again. I think you already found out what happens when you try! That's why repair manuals say not to reuse them.

Before you crank down the fuel rails, be sure all 6 injectors can rotate freely. If not, the o-ring is not seated right and will leak once you start up your rig.
 
Thank you gentlemen.

Maybe I can't remember, but where are these copper crush washers located????

On each end of the passenger and one end of the driver side fuel rail. If you didn't loosen them you may be OK, but I'ld check them out since you were trying to pull just one side you may have tweaked one of them or the hard line between them.
 
On each end of the passenger and one end of the driver side fuel rail. If you didn't loosen them you may be OK, but I'ld check them out since you were trying to pull just one side you may have tweaked one of them or the hard line between them.


Thanks again. I have picked up some new o rings. I'm going to really take my time this time.

Hopefully will have some good news shortly.
 
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Can anybody tell me what hose this is?? Where is it suppose to go?

I put all new o rings on each injector and there are no fuel leaks thus far. How ever it does seem like there is a bad vacuum leak. It sounds like it is coming from the area I have in the picture.

Any thoughts?
 
I'm assuming the is the pcv valve after current research. Can anyone confirm?

Yes, it is indeed the PCV. That brown little doo-dad at the other end is the PCV valve.

As you are learning your engine, I suggest taking photos of the engine before you take anything apart. Then when you go to put it back together you have a visual reference.
 
I just did my passenger side without removing the plenum, had a p0303 code so I changed plugs, traded coil packs, then moved onto swapping out the one fuel injector on cylinder 3. As advised I sprung for the $125 new injector, picked up 2 new o rings for injector 1 and injector 5 since the new one I bought had them already. Then I had to locate the crush washers/gasket. My nearby Napa, autozone, and baxters did not have any; the Toyota dealership only had 2 and would have to order me more, I called up Lexus and they had 9 of them ($15 for 4 ). Expensive but they seem to be the only thing preventing gasoline from spraying out into the engine bay. It was hard to get the banjo bolts out of each end but I discovered the big wiring harness at the firewall side of the rail has a clip behind it and could be unclipped and lifted up to get that bolt loose. Once loose you take out the bolts holding the rail down and then the rail can move east and west to finish getting the bolts off each end. Although as someone else posted you don't want to ream too hard on it, I moved mine just enough to free the bolts. Took the rail off. Then each injector out one by one. Put new o rings on 1 and 5, lubed all o rings and placed into rail. Then put rail back down. Put bolts back in halfway with 2 crush washers on each ( one on each side of the fuel connector. One on rail side one on bolt side ). Then bolted rail back down to block. Then went back to tighten the end bolts. As stated elsewhere the injectors should be able to swivel a little bit as you may notice when you snap the connectors back on.

The crush washers part number that I used: 90430-12026

Here is a picture of the 4 crush washers and 4 O rings
 

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