Fuel Tank Relocation (and new Rear Bumper design)

Ok peoples: I’ve got my all-in costs figured out and have a handle on boxing & shipping these things, so the rest of them are $165 shipped in the lower 48.

www.jkeithwalters.com/tankmounts

4 of them ship out Monday, thanks guys!

(I’ll burn mine in this weekend, hopefully)


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Ok peoples: I’ve got my all-in costs figured out and have a handle on boxing & shipping these things, so the rest of them are $165 shipped in the lower 48.

buy Fuel Tank Mounts - jkeithwalters.com

4 of them ship out Monday, thanks guys!

(I’ll burn mine in this weekend, hopefully)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Super interested here. Won't be ordering yet due to other obligations, but I find this a must. One of my few knocks on the 3rd gen is the range...

Might want to note on your page what tank or tanks this is for (I believe it's Ford F150 91-96, rear).
 
Might want to note on your page what tank or tanks this is for (I believe it's Ford F150 91-96, rear).


Thanks! and I’m sure you’re correct, but I’ll double check my notes (it’s been a while since I ordered it)

Also; I installed the tank mounts today. Pretty pleased with the outcome!

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So here are my install notes:

First off, the two front mounts are positioned by measuring off of the inside face of the driver’s side framerail; 220mm to the edge of the driver’s side front mount, and 625mm to the edge of the passenger side front mount: (those are millimeters, NOT M&Ms [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION])

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I designed the mounts to offset the tank to the driver’s side to give the exhaust as much room as possible where it must pass by the tank.

If you position the mounts exactly on those measurements, they will line up with the crossmember perfectly.

OK, so grab the passenger side front mount and tack it in place, making sure it is vertical (I use an IPhone app called Clinometer for this.) Then mark through the lower mounting hole - this is where you’ll clearance the factory crossmember for the nut.

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Cut the tack welds and clearance the crossmember so that the M10x1.5 nut has clearance when the mount is repositioned:

51de83e05c2fec927031c216d78aa3a5.jpeg


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When you’re happy with the fit, go weld up the corners of the front mounts and weld the nuts to each front mount and the rear crossmember.

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Weld the front mounts according to the 220/625mm positioning (making sure they are vertical and plumb to each other)

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CONGRATS, that was the hard part!


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Now you can chamfer the edges on the rear crossmember and slip it into the open ends of the frame:

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It should be flush with the frame rails, and the T slots are above the horizontal flange (don’t put it in upside-down, everyone will make fun of you)

Then take your two Ford tank straps (the lower ones that support the weight of the tank) and use one to mark the other for slotting the hole (each strap has a hole and a slot.)

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Put your upper straps in (pro-tip: put the nut on the threaded end in the front mounts BEFORE you snap the other end into the T-slots in the crossmember.)

Hammer the flange on the REAR of the tank upward (or downward, just fold it 90 degrees - I went up) and lift the tank into position.

Bolt the lower straps on, mark the excess length and cut them off flush with the mounts.

Drink a beer and admire your work!

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The tank literally disappears into the framerails!



I’ll work on a filler neck next, but that should be pretty easy:

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me? - I haven't gotten that far yet. :)

I'm planning on using a Ford pump, possibly with a Toyota level sender (or a precisely bent float arm)...

OK, I'm gonna S/C & if I do this mod I'll need the correct LPM's. Any idea what the LPM of the Ford pump is?
 
OK, I'm gonna S/C & if I do this mod I'll need the correct LPM's. Any idea what the LPM of the Ford pump is?

dunno; but it being a Ford, I'd be there's a S/C-oriented aftermarket supplier for Fox bodies or something that will do what you need?
 
Not entirely sure how accurate this info is but this says 125 LPH. So converted to LPM it’s 2.083 LPM. Looks like they are discussing the singe front tank instead of the rear tank but I think the pumps themselves are the same. Just the housing is different.

https://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=65581

dunno; but it being a Ford, I'd be there's a S/C-oriented aftermarket supplier for Fox bodies or something that will do what you need?

Thanks, I meant LPH. I'll need around 190. I'll have to see whats out there. Hopefully Walbro makes one for Ford.
 
If any knows Keith's work, it will be no surprise to hear the design, fit, and finish on this is second to none! The install went flawlessly. The clearances around the tank are super slim, and the fit is perfect. This install was so I can figure out the best filler hose setup- I have the pump/sender removed to do some work with that as well. When I do the final install, I'll use new hardware, and paint the 22 year old straps!
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Thanks again for everything you're building, [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] [emoji1598][emoji1373]
 
I'm preparing the install of Keith's tank relocation brackets.

Plumbing not difficult, but looking for a breakdown of a setup to use stock fuel gauge.

I read through the post, and went down a couple other trails too. I found some evidence that people are using the ford pump and sender with stock gauge, but no details...

What's the best approach to stock gauge in relocated tank? Anyone break it down yet? If so, would be great to have a link at top of thread, if not, I'll do work on it to share, but feels like it's out there, I just could not find it....
 
I'm preparing the install of Keith's tank relocation brackets.

Plumbing not difficult, but looking for a breakdown of a setup to use stock fuel gauge.

I read through the post, and went down a couple other trails too. I found some evidence that people are using the ford pump and sender with stock gauge, but no details...

What's the best approach to stock gauge in relocated tank? Anyone break it down yet? If so, would be great to have a link at top of thread, if not, I'll do work on it to share, but feels like it's out there, I just could not find it....


There is some good info in this thread and the pics are back up so that helps too

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/194378-ford-f150-gas-tank-swap-into-2000-4runner.html
 
I'm preparing the install of Keith's tank relocation brackets.

Plumbing not difficult, but looking for a breakdown of a setup to use stock fuel gauge.

I read through the post, and went down a couple other trails too. I found some evidence that people are using the ford pump and sender with stock gauge, but no details...

What's the best approach to stock gauge in relocated tank? Anyone break it down yet? If so, would be great to have a link at top of thread, if not, I'll do work on it to share, but feels like it's out there, I just could not find it....

I'm working on a fuel pump/sender mount to reuse the Toyota stuff - at least, that's how I'm going to do mine - a drop in mount/arm to fit the Ford opening/lock ring.

However, like [MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION], I'm going to weld the mounting bosses for the rollover valve and filler neck bung onto the Ford tank - those two seem simple enough.
 
I'm working on a fuel pump/sender mount to reuse the Toyota stuff - at least, that's how I'm going to do mine - a drop in mount/arm to fit the Ford opening/lock ring.

However, like [MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION], I'm going to weld the mounting bosses for the rollover valve and filler neck bung onto the Ford tank - those two seem simple enough.

thx Keith. Brackets arrived today. :hungry:

For fuel pump/sender - adapter plate would be great. i've been thinking about building a harness between front tank and rear tank with a simple arduino to convert the ohms (actually via voltage) to use the Ford pump, but I'd rather not reinvent if you've got a hardware solution.

What do you think for the baffle/sump? Shallow tanks begging for it...

Filler neck valve necessary if fuel cap sealed tight?
 

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