I've got a question on the filler neck/hose, specifically about the venting. Now the fuel tanks have a opening for the filler hose, but nothing to vent the tank during fuel-ups. From the tank swaps I've seen, it seems most people are adding an air vent line to the tank which obviously requires a little fabrication to the tank:
I read of some people using an internally vented fuel hose but I'm having a hard time understanding exactly how that works or where to get that. I imagine an internally vented filler hose requires a new filler neck compatible with that type of hose, correct? Is there a filler neck that fit's nicely in the OEM location?
I'm just trying to figure out the cleanest/easiest way to do this. Thanks in advance!
There are 3 smaller wires (once again on my 2000) that are as follows:
[MENTION=106706]MN4runnerman[/MENTION] EDIT! I may have over looked that this seems to be a "stepper or digital" fuel level set up running a positive voltage drop/loop. :sorry: I'm going to confirm this tomorrow in a few hours (1:30am here lol). If this is the case then to my knowledge no fuel sender calibrators will work, since they only operate on a ground type system.
I think the year split for this whackie cluster is 99 and up, 98 has rolling odo/trip vs the 99+ digital odo/trip. Damn I may have shot myself in the foot, firetruck! But aircraft senders might work but they start at 450$ and up, yeah no thanks.
99 and up it's a 4 pin gauge vs. the 98 and older 3 pin simple and always works gauge grrr. So that tells me it's not normal lol. Usually they are 3 pins, 12v pos, signal and ground (most of them that is). And the low fuel light circuit is completely separate. On mine is COS- SIN- COS+ SIN+, so that tells me its stepper or digital.
Seems any voltage to/from the sender calibrator on the gauge and/or the sending unit kills the calibrator module
Orange - low fuel light (don't know what voltage but it's positive going into the low fuel sensor).
Yellow/red - signal from gauge ecm to fuel sender (might be + voltage from cluster ecm).
Brown/black - from fuel level sensor to cluster ecm (signal in [might be + voltage through sender]).
The are located on D connector (C28 blue 12 pin, pins 4, 5 and 6). See the pics attached.
The gauge itself on the dash is digital, but it is driven from the circuit board on the back of the cluster. The fuel sender in the tank should still be a "normal" setup. Here's what I found in the FSM:
The gauge itself on the dash is digital, but it is driven from the circuit board on the back of the cluster. The fuel sender in the tank should still be a "normal" setup. Here's what I found in the FSM:
-Charlie
It is called out as a for a 2000 (digital copies). I have a hard copy for my '99 but haven't referenced it for this.
Definitely confusing. The connections for testing and what goes to the gauge call out different pin assignments - one might go low to high and the other high to low? (that's how a normal 3-pin potentiometer works, which is how fuel level gauges work) The other Toyota diagram I have (for my '89 Camry) calls out low resistance when full (3 ohms) and high resistance when empty (110 ohms), so it is more likely that is how the gauge will work normally.Hold on a minute...
If those resistance values (12-184) are truly the sender values of 99+ 4Runners, then the sending unit in the ford tank should be close enough (16-158) to not need a calibration device. Is that right?
Edit: I'm finding conflicting information online, according to replacement Toyota sending units (e.g. Rock Auto SPECTRA PREMIUM SP9013H), the resistance at FULL is 13 ohms and EMPTY is 189 ohms, which is the opposite of what the FSM says that [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] posted. Which is correct?
Just for clarification, what signal converter are you using and what fuel level sensor and fuel sender are you using?
That's really unfortunate. I still trying to wrap my head around why it cannot work.
Question: If you hook up the Ford sender directly to the wires that lead to the gauge, will it read backwards?
I know on older Toyotas it will, not sure about 99+ 4Runners. If so I want to throw out another idea. On pirate some guys have bent the float arm 180° since the Toyota sender reads opposite of Ford:
The problem with this is it puts the float in front of the sender rather than behind, so the float arm doesn't move as high in the tank. Anything between ~60% and 100% would show the same level on the gauge.
The bracket holding the potentiometer/float is removable, and looks like it could easily be rotated 180° (even better if it could be flipped so the inside surface points out).
Bending the arm + rotating the bracket (or just flipping the bracket) so the float is back behind the sender should give a much more accurate reading.
...
Getting the dash to look OEM (and work obviously) is very important to me, so I'm determined to find a solution.
