brokedownwallet
Member
How much of a DIY is this/how does the cost compare to a shop?
Full bushing swap for suspension
- Thread starter mendozer
- Start date
GhostRing
Member
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Shops my area done lost their minds $3k+- plus parts easy number to hit for all.
200k+- mi virgin location matters. Cams/bolts Rack pressure line fitting have eaten better
part of day to get to bushings on southern truck sawzal was needed. First time diy schedule
a weekend/looonng day for frontend. PBblaster for days before.
Links and Sways long day doable. Been my experience.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Seen some at that milage a visual all it took to Yea those need changing.
I installed Whiteline LCA bushings and used this method: Replace Toyota Lower control arm bushings-SPC Alignment
Mine were seized. Yours may not be, but the bushing removal method still applies. It was fairly painless. I broke 2x 3/16" drill bits, so make sure you have some spares. I used the simple hammer and chisel method to drive out the split bushings. No power tools for that. They came out easily once the core was removed and the sleeve was cut. I think this method is better than the heat method.
You do need a Sawzall, some metal cutting blades and a beefy bench vice for the basic service. You might need the Sawzall to remove the arms/alignment cams if they're seized. I already owned a Sawzall, but I borrowed a ball joint press kit from O'Reilly's to install the bushings.
Hope this is useful information.
Cheers
really, even with torching/pressing? that seems like it would be fast
T4R2014
Elite Member
Once you cut that inner sleeve it weakens and comes out easy. No heat involved, nor any potential projectiles from pressing. Plus the bearing splitter from the FSM method requires chiseling that lip on the bushing. I flattened the hell out of it for the bearing splitter to have meat to grab onto, and it still slipped off and broke the lip of the splitter. My second time around went way quicker with no press work involved. Maybe you'll have better luck with the press than me though.
T4R2014
Elite Member
Good call, this isn't a fun job when the bushing won't press out as easily as in the video and you need your daily driver ready to go the next day. Installing all the control arms in the rear on a lift took me and another person 4 hours too.
I can R&R the rear control arms, lower and uppers, laying on my back in my driveway in less than 2 hours. Probably a lot less than 2 hours. It's a total of 8 sets of nuts and bolts, 2 per arm. You don't even need to raise the vehicle. It's probably easier if you don't.
Why did it take 4 hours?
Oh, you replaced bushings. I replaced the entire links with upgraded parts...
By "raising the vehicle" I was referring to it being unnecessary to put the rear of the truck on jack-stands to remove and replace the rear links if you R&R them one at a time. Obviously for the front of the vehicle, you have to put it up on stands and pull the wheels to do the work. I don't know if your vehicle is stock or lifted with larger tires/wheels. For me, replacing the rear links, both upper and lower, with upgraded parts made a world of difference. I have a full time auto-locker in the rear and the SPC lower links were the best thing ever. I went through 2 sets of stock lower links. Plus, the stock lower links are a known weak point back there. They bend easily and the bushings are too soft, IMHO, for larger wheels and tires. Even the Mevotech Supreme upper links I installed were a noticeable upgrade from the stock units. They have a beefier connecting rod between the upgraded bushings. They improved the on-road manners even further. Helped with off-road manners as well. Replacing the front UCA with the JBA units made a gigantic difference as well. If you lift your truck, get aftermarket UCAs that correct the Caster.
The stock suspension parts are fine if the truck is stock.
My .02
Cheers
The stock suspension parts are fine if the truck is stock.
My .02
Cheers
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