Full Stereo Replacement / Upgrade from JBL 10 Speaker System

EnduringGuerila

New member
I like to consider myself an Audiophile... so I was not happy with the stock sound from the car. Maybe when it was new it sounded better but I think it is pitiful as it sounds now.

I replaced the Head Unit with the Pioneer DEH-80PRS and left all the speakers to see how much better it would sound not using an ancient cassette adapter... Sounded equally shit and I wasted ~$50 on the Metra Interface Adapter.


Parts:
Car Stereo: (Total: 927.53)
$ 209.99 Pioneer DEH-80PRS (Head unit)
$ 43.35 AXXESS ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control
$ 7.34 Metra 70-8114 Toyota 20 Pin Connector
$ 48.04 Metra TYTO01 Interface Adapter (not needed anymore)
(Either the Metra TYTO01 or the AXXESS ASWC-1 make this really annoying four beeps sound when you turn the car off. I am hoping it is just the TYTO01 since that will be removed)

$ 190.00 Alpine PDR-V75 Car Amplifier 5ch (used)
$ 134.99 Kicker 40CSS694 CSS69 6"x9" component 450 Watt 4-Ohm
$ 69.95 Kicker 43CSC674 CSC67 6.75-Coaxial, 4-Ohm
$ 91.95 Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-8 8" Dual 2-Ohm Subwoofer
$ 72.98 Rockford RFK4X 4 AWG Complete Amplifier Install Kit
$ 19.95 2x Rockford Fosgate RFI-16 16' Ft Twisted 2 Ch RCA (3rd pair came with the RFK4X install kit)
$ 38.99 FosPower 12AWG Speaker Wire
$ 17.19 Alpine RUX-KNOB Remote Bass Level Control Knob for PDX-M12 and PDX-M6

(click image for full size)


To Be Continued...




I'm sorry to have completely dropped the ball on this build thread. I ran out of time before moving to Colorado and really rushed through this so I had audio for the drive...


This is the only photo I took during the install.
cfdb2bb81fe07a5bd41c1952d41bfc80.jpg

Some other resources:
How to remove stock stereo

full-replacement-guide-sr5-v8-jbl-just-blows

YouTube Video
 
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Slight hold up, my battery completely died so I am shopping for the best high performance battery on the market and debating what else I should do to my rig at the same time.
 
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I swapped my head unit for a Kenwood a while back and used the JBL interface tool as well as the steering wheel button tato thing. I wired it all up correctly, but I think the Kenwood's power cycle interrupts the tato programming and my steering wheel buttons don't work at all now (at first they just performed the wrong commands and wouldn't accept a reprogram).

I agree, the 13 year old JBL's sound like shit. What are your thoughts on the Kenwood xcelon single din head units? At some point I'll be doing a full revamp to "Blackie Chan" but I have a bumper/qtr panel to straighten out first.

What are you doing with the DVD nav unit? I thought about making it into a smuggler's compartment.

Please take pics!! I've only ever swapped speakers and head units, don't know much about amps/wiring a complete system.
 
I swapped my head unit for a Kenwood a while back and used the JBL interface tool as well as the steering wheel button tato thing. I wired it all up correctly, but I think the Kenwood's power cycle interrupts the tato programming and my steering wheel buttons don't work at all now (at first they just performed the wrong commands and wouldn't accept a reprogram).

I agree, the 13 year old JBL's sound like shit. What are your thoughts on the Kenwood xcelon single din head units? At some point I'll be doing a full revamp to "Blackie Chan" but I have a bumper/qtr panel to straighten out first.

What are you doing with the DVD nav unit? I thought about making it into a smuggler's compartment.

Please take pics!! I've only ever swapped speakers and head units, don't know much about amps/wiring a complete system.

I plan on making a full guide out of this. I'll take a bunch of pics for sure. My roommate is an aspiring youtuber so I might bum his camera and make some videos too.

My 4Runner didn't come with the nav unit, just the 6 disc with cassette. I don't have any plans for it as I am sure no one really wants it either.
 
Best battery on the market would be Northstar- I believe factory size is a group 34, I have (2) Group 31s under the hood on mine. And where are you planning on putting the 6x9s? I opted for 6.5" up front and am running active atm..
 
Subscribed. I am in the research and shopping phase, as I am debating between the Alpine and Kenwood GPS HUs and an amp:

Kenwood DNX573S Double DIN DVD Bluetooth Navigation Receiver

Alpine INE-W960 GPS Receiver

Amp
Alpine PDR-V75

Will replace the JBL subwoofer with one of these:

Rockford P3SD48 P3 Punch Shallow mount 8-Inch DVC 4-Ohm Subwoofer
Kenwood KFC-XW800F - 8" Subwoofer
JL Audio 8W1v3-4 W1v3 8-inch Subwoofer

This is phase 1 of the project. Phase 2 will involve replacing door speakers.
 
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Dropping my sons and I's off tomorrow for install. I priced online and he is only $400 more installed and an authorized dealer.
Pioneer 4200nex dvd w/bypass
Jl xd700/5v2
Memphis Mclass 6.5 components front and coaxial rear
Memphis Bass Refrence 12 and box.
All adapters and ect.

The Jbl was fine to me but my son is paying for the stereo. We will just have to remove the sub for off road trips.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 
Why a RUX-KNOB?
The deck has a sub woofer level control does it not?
You'd have to have the sub level on the deck at max to have any control-ability via the Rux
 
get the idatalink maestro sw for steering wheel control, its alot easier to program and better.
ive been using the same head unit for quite sometime, its good, wish i can do hd radio with it. but i love the eq. my old unit had 13 band eq.
i thought your an audiophile, speaker choice kicker? what the fuq.
 
I didn't like the sound of the stock system at all. This was a few years ago and I don't remember model numbers on my equipment.

First I replaced just the head unit with a Kenwood and that didn't really help much at all. Then I replaced the factory amp with a Rockford Fosgate amp and disconnected the middle dash speaker only keeping the door speakers and the factory subwoofer.

This sounds OK if I keep the bass very low. If I was going to do anything further it would be replace the subwoofer.

I find the JBL speakers in the doors sound OK, but not great. But that middle speaker was all I could hear until I had it disconnected. That really improved the overall sound of the system.
 
get the idatalink maestro sw for steering wheel control, its alot easier to program and better.
ive been using the same head unit for quite sometime, its good, wish i can do hd radio with it. but i love the eq. my old unit had 13 band eq.
i thought your an audiophile, speaker choice kicker? what the fuq.

Those Kickers were the highest end components I could afford that are also 6x9. The 6x9 component selection is actually very limited. If I am not happy with the sound then I do plan to sell or return my current selection. Also, I can easily replace the speakers at a later time when money is not so tight. Laying all the wires and everything is the hard part. I am still in school and don't have much income at the moment.

Another note, cars have an excessive amount of ambient noise. I plan on installing some sound dampening (Probably not Peel and Seal) but that still doesn't eliminate the issue. I believe that the price to quality drop off is much steeper for car audio than it is for any other form.

I have a new battery now, Interstate MT7-34R, so I will begin replacing everything soon.

How is the idatalink maestro sw better? I already have the one installed and programmed. It wasn't very difficult at all.
 
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Why a RUX-KNOB?
The deck has a sub woofer level control does it not?
You'd have to have the sub level on the deck at max to have any control-ability via the Rux

In the past I have used the stereo to control the SW (back in my '97 civic with dual 10s in the trunk) and I found myself just dealing with the same base level from album to album even though it was slightly overpowering at times and underwhelming at others. I can still use the stereo if I choose but this directly controls the amp SW level. (or so I believe... If this knob can only control the entire system volume and not single out the SW then shame on me)
 
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Those Kickers were the highest end components I could afford that are also 6x9. The 6x9 component selection is actually very limited. If I am not happy with the sound then I do plan to sell or return my current selection. Also, I can easily replace the speakers at a later time when money is not so tight. Laying all the wires and everything is the hard part. I am still in school and don't have much income at the moment.

Another note, cars have an excessive amount of ambient noise. I plan on installing some sound dampening (Probably not Peel and Seal) but that still doesn't eliminate the issue. I believe that the price to quality drop off is much steeper for car audio than it is for any other form.

I have a new battery now, Interstate MT7-34R, so I will begin replacing everything soon.

How is the idatalink maestro sw better? I already have the one installed and programmed. It wasn't very difficult at all.

Its easier to customize with their unit. Also did you ever thought about converting the 6x9 to 6.5? Sound deadner you can use dynamat or secondskin or knukonceptz. Battery you could of did group 31.
 
Its easier to customize with their unit. Also did you ever thought about converting the 6x9 to 6.5? Sound deadner you can use dynamat or secondskin or knukonceptz. Battery you could of did group 31.

I almost bought an Optima Yellowtop D31A i believe but the battery I chose seemed to be the cost to quality i was looking for.

I have considered converting but i wanted to try to stick with the largest size i can fit.

I am leaning towards Second Skin at the moment.
 
Sorry for the very long delay!
I have actually been working on some other vehicles I plan on selling and then investing that money into the 4Runner.

Tons of mods coming :
Dual battery system
Suspension
Rock sliders
Skid plates
Rear air locker
Either front air locker or TrueTrax
Maybe bumpers

And plan on doing it all at the same time and then sell my Mustang GT so I'll only have 2 vehicles, not 6...
 

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