Fusible Link Wire
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gtgt_bangbang
New member
why nota fuse ?
Curious why not just use a fuse / block molded onto wire (easily available in many sizes) ,
it never made much sense to have wire intentionally burn up, unless it was completely isolated from all others and couldn't damage them when it smoked. No way I would want to wrap one up in a harness bundle.
I hope there's some aspect to fusible links that you simply can't achieve from normal fuses, likes momentary surge capacity or blow delay, but I doubt it on something as simple as car electrics.
I actually imagine most fusable links were installed for the convenience of the designer/manufacturer so the consumer wouldn't see random fuse holders exposed, and it's such a last ditch method they figure it will be out of warranty if ever tested. Hopefully we're all bigger boys than that now.
Where is this fusible link you're going to replace?
If you insist on a link, this is one of those rare parts, that if Toyota installed it, I would want Toyota replacement just to have the same characteristics. I know I've seen them around, but more and more rarely
Curious why not just use a fuse / block molded onto wire (easily available in many sizes) ,
it never made much sense to have wire intentionally burn up, unless it was completely isolated from all others and couldn't damage them when it smoked. No way I would want to wrap one up in a harness bundle.
I hope there's some aspect to fusible links that you simply can't achieve from normal fuses, likes momentary surge capacity or blow delay, but I doubt it on something as simple as car electrics.
I actually imagine most fusable links were installed for the convenience of the designer/manufacturer so the consumer wouldn't see random fuse holders exposed, and it's such a last ditch method they figure it will be out of warranty if ever tested. Hopefully we're all bigger boys than that now.
Where is this fusible link you're going to replace?
If you insist on a link, this is one of those rare parts, that if Toyota installed it, I would want Toyota replacement just to have the same characteristics. I know I've seen them around, but more and more rarely
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gtgt_bangbang
New member
The only thing a fuse does is protect a wire from too much current which would melt it some random location which may be hard-to-find or damage neighbors.
It doesn't reduce current, it doesn't affect operation, it just melts before anything else does.
What you're showing is just a jumper wire, and fusing that would only protect the short length between the battery and the distribution block. If you simply avoid intentionally shorting the positive side of that distribution block, there should be no need for a fuse.
It looks to me like the dreaded previous owner simply installed that longer jumper wire so he could use the wrong battery (the battery terminals should be on the rearward facing Side of the battery). If I'm correct, your biggest concern is to be absolutely certain that positive post would never connect to the hood or frame. That would be a "bad" thing
For one thing you don't show hold down bracket, so that battery could bounce around. Fix that.
Any wires or devices downstream from the distribution block Will rely on their own fuse in the block.
As long as that shown white wire is of sufficient capacity to supply all the current for all the downstream devices, it shouldn't require any fusing. I don't know what you have connected to it but 10 or 12 gauge ought to be mucho Plenty. Thicker wire never hurts, it just is more of a pain to work with.
Repair that one if necessary with good quality wire, perhaps an outer wrap, and suitably heavy connectors installed in reliable manner. bada binky
It doesn't reduce current, it doesn't affect operation, it just melts before anything else does.
What you're showing is just a jumper wire, and fusing that would only protect the short length between the battery and the distribution block. If you simply avoid intentionally shorting the positive side of that distribution block, there should be no need for a fuse.
It looks to me like the dreaded previous owner simply installed that longer jumper wire so he could use the wrong battery (the battery terminals should be on the rearward facing Side of the battery). If I'm correct, your biggest concern is to be absolutely certain that positive post would never connect to the hood or frame. That would be a "bad" thing
For one thing you don't show hold down bracket, so that battery could bounce around. Fix that.
Any wires or devices downstream from the distribution block Will rely on their own fuse in the block.
As long as that shown white wire is of sufficient capacity to supply all the current for all the downstream devices, it shouldn't require any fusing. I don't know what you have connected to it but 10 or 12 gauge ought to be mucho Plenty. Thicker wire never hurts, it just is more of a pain to work with.
Repair that one if necessary with good quality wire, perhaps an outer wrap, and suitably heavy connectors installed in reliable manner. bada binky
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flyinhawaiian01
New member
Easier to just replace it with something like an 8, 6 or 4 awg wire, rather than trying to hunt down a toyota-only part like that. Here's a good discussion on both sides of the decision of replacing the fusible link:
Fusable Link Replacement - YotaTech Forums
Personally, its a silly idea, to think a "fusible link" is any better than just a good quality power cable! All it does is supply the main power from the battery to the fuse box, and its connected directly to an 80A fuse.
This is also part of the "big 3" rewire craze that went on several years ago. I did a partial replacement of wiring, along with a larger alternator (150A Mean Green), many years ago and I have never had an issue with my setup, and I run a helluvalotta stuff in my truck!
I believe I went with an AWG8 to replace the short fusible link. Its been a while, but I think it was less than 12" long, and for AWG8 wire, you can easily have 80A without a problem.
Fusable Link Replacement - YotaTech Forums
Personally, its a silly idea, to think a "fusible link" is any better than just a good quality power cable! All it does is supply the main power from the battery to the fuse box, and its connected directly to an 80A fuse.
This is also part of the "big 3" rewire craze that went on several years ago. I did a partial replacement of wiring, along with a larger alternator (150A Mean Green), many years ago and I have never had an issue with my setup, and I run a helluvalotta stuff in my truck!
I believe I went with an AWG8 to replace the short fusible link. Its been a while, but I think it was less than 12" long, and for AWG8 wire, you can easily have 80A without a problem.
Thanks for all the replies. Now that you mention it the theory that the po just extended the wire when he got the wrong battery makes sense. I will see what the underside of the hood looks like to make sure its safe. Also I know about the hold down. This truck hasn't seen the road yet I am just finishing a ground up "overhaul" on it.
