FYI- Tire size, Lift and Fit

Gerdo

New member
I'm sure that some will disagree with my opinion on tire size, lift and fit.

Here is my thinking.

If you have a good flexing suspension (full droop to full compression to the bumpstops) the lift height makes zero difference on what size tire will fit.

What do I mean by fit? Full suspension travel and full travel of the steering.

So if a good flexible lifted suspension will allow a 32" or 33" tire to fully cycle without rubbing then the same tire should not rub at stock height. We all have accepted that a 32" will have little to no rubbing (lifted or stock) and a 33" will almost always have some rubbing when lifted. You should be able to run that same 33" with stock suspension with the same rubbing, just more often on the stock suspension. The key is a good flexing suspension. Now if you have a stiff suspension that limits travel, then you will experience less rubbing.

Additionally The more you lift the front, the upper control arm will rotate closer to the tire sidewall.

Now adding a body lift. BLs will effectively move the body away from the tire when the suspension is fully compressed to the bumpstop.

I know that my 32" rub the top of the inner fender when fully flexed to the bumpstop (minor rub).

Backspacing and wheel spacers can cure some rubbing and cause additional. Less backspacing (no difference if it is achieved by a wheel with less BS of wheel spacers) can reduce the contact from the sidewall (front tire) and the upper control arm. Also the inside edge rubbing in the frame when turning. Too little BS will cause the tire (front) to travel in a larger arc when turning the steering wheel. This larger arc will usually cause rubbing on the back of the front wheel well. Sometimes too little BS will allow the rear tire to rub on the top fender lip when fully compressed.

**Tires of different brands and models (AT,MT,LT & "P" series) of the same size can differ in actual measurements by 1/2" or more**
***You will experience more interference (rubbing) issues on the front tires than the rears***

A complete lift kit should include all of the parts below.
Parts of a 3" lift kit. (3" lift is a good safe height lift) Taller lifts will require all this and more.

*Front coils (needed)

*Front shocks (highly recommended)(Coils need to be assembled onto the shocks)

*Front Diff Drop (cheap, reduces CV angles to prolong boots)

*Rear coils (needed)

*Rear shocks (recommended, longer coils should have longer shocks)

*Pan Hard Bar Drop (recommended, keeps the PHB working closer to stock vertical arc, reduces the rear end wag feeling, without the axle will move on a diagonal arc)(needs to be welded on)

*Parking brake mount extension (recommended, it mounts on the rear axle and reduces tension in the cable when axle is drooped)

*Longer rear swaybar end links (recommended, the stock ones can limit droop)

*Extended rear brake line (usually not needed, sometimes the mount may need to be bent to allow enough slack when axle is at full droop)

***With the age of our vehicles the flexible rubber brake lines, F&R, may need replacement from age anyway. I found a quality set of 3 stainless steel lines***
 
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not to be an a$$, but hasnt the whole lift/tire size been beaten to death..
along with "what size tire can I run" :redbrick:
 
not to be an a$$, but hasnt the whole lift/tire size been beaten to death..
along with "what size tire can I run" :redbrick:

Yeah I think that's why he posted this. So people would come across it and stop asking.
 
ProComp 9000 should work for the bigger LC coils. They are like $40 a piece.

I have Procraps... I wouldnt use them, they dont have nearly the length that other shocks have,

i would and will go with the Tokico LC shocks or go with the Bilstein, If you want to spend lots and have a really nice shock, go with Rancho...
 
Trying to find the best extended sway bar links, any advice?
AND - are they not needed up front?
 
Trying to find the best extended sway bar links, any advice?
AND - are they not needed up front?

[MENTION=98153]MStudt[/MENTION] makes some and several people on the forum run them.

I removed my swaybar in the rear, mostly due to rusted and broken bolts, and currently just using the stock swaybar end links in the front. I had the front completely disconnected for a while, but it was kinda scary around sharper highspeed corners (lots of body roll).
 
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Old thread, I know, but would LT265/75R16 with stock suspension fit on a 2000 $x4 Limited (3rd gen) with 8in wide wheels?

I like to have this combo:

Wheels (16x8):
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/Whe...&wheelFinish=Black+Painted&partnum=AR1725165B

Tires (LT265/75R16 ):
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...d White Letters&partnum=675R6KO2RWL&tab=Sizes

Since stock rims, I think, are 7in wide, Im wondering if the 8in wide wheels would rub more. Thanks for any insight.

You will rub. The extra rim width and 4" backspacing on them will cause them to hit your pinch weld up front when turning. You may also rub the stock front bumper valence. If you don't mind cutting or hammering the pinch weld and maybe cutting off the lower corner of your valence, you'll be fine. Both of those modifications are very easy and won't be noticeable unless someone looks closely.
 
Your opinion is not an opinion, it's a fact; lift has no correlation to the size tire you can fit. Unless you are talking about a body lift, a drop-bracket lift or unless you extend your bump stops to limit compression. This is a very common misconception that for some reason still hasn't died in spite of this being the age of information.

On my old 3rd gen, I trimmed the wheel wells and firewall and was able to fit 35s with zero lift. Suspension works better with the control arms at stock angles anyway and the vehicle is more stable with a lower COG, so if you can avoid lift you should.

I'm sure that some will disagree with my opinion on tire size, lift and fit.

Here is my thinking.

If you have a good flexing suspension (full droop to full compression to the bumpstops) the lift height makes zero difference on what size tire will fit.

What do I mean by fit? Full suspension travel and full travel of the steering.

So if a good flexible lifted suspension will allow a 32" or 33" tire to fully cycle without rubbing then the same tire should not rub at stock height. We all have accepted that a 32" will have little to no rubbing (lifted or stock) and a 33" will almost always have some rubbing when lifted. You should be able to run that same 33" with stock suspension with the same rubbing, just more often on the stock suspension. The key is a good flexing suspension. Now if you have a stiff suspension that limits travel, then you will experience less rubbing.

Additionally The more you lift the front, the upper control arm will rotate closer to the tire sidewall.

Now adding a body lift. BLs will effectively move the body away from the tire when the suspension is fully compressed to the bumpstop.

I know that my 32" rub the top of the inner fender when fully flexed to the bumpstop (minor rub).

Backspacing and wheel spacers can cure some rubbing and cause additional. Less backspacing (no difference if it is achieved by a wheel with less BS of wheel spacers) can reduce the contact from the sidewall (front tire) and the upper control arm. Also the inside edge rubbing in the frame when turning. Too little BS will cause the tire (front) to travel in a larger arc when turning the steering wheel. This larger arc will usually cause rubbing on the back of the front wheel well. Sometimes too little BS will allow the rear tire to rub on the top fender lip when fully compressed.

**Tires of different brands and models (AT,MT,LT & "P" series) of the same size can differ in actual measurements by 1/2" or more**
***You will experience more interference (rubbing) issues on the front tires than the rears***

A complete lift kit should include all of the parts below.
Parts of a 3" lift kit. (3" lift is a good safe height lift) Taller lifts will require all this and more.

*Front coils (needed)

*Front shocks (highly recommended)(Coils need to be assembled onto the shocks)

*Front Diff Drop (cheap, reduces CV angles to prolong boots)

*Rear coils (needed)

*Rear shocks (recommended, longer coils should have longer shocks)

*Pan Hard Bar Drop (recommended, keeps the PHB working closer to stock vertical arc, reduces the rear end wag feeling, without the axle will move on a diagonal arc)(needs to be welded on)

*Parking brake mount extension (recommended, it mounts on the rear axle and reduces tension in the cable when axle is drooped)

*Longer rear swaybar end links (recommended, the stock ones can limit droop)

*Extended rear brake line (usually not needed, sometimes the mount may need to be bent to allow enough slack when axle is at full droop)

***With the age of our vehicles the flexible rubber brake lines, F&R, may need replacement from age anyway. I found a quality set of 3 stainless steel lines***
 

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