Gauge cluster back light issue

meder24

New member
So I got into a small fender bender this evening where my 4Runner lightly side swiped another car coming into my lane.
Besides being sick to my stomach about he minor damage to my fender, another issue appears to have surfaced. When I turn on either the running or headlights, all of the back lighting for the dash and HVAC controls turns off.
Very minor body damage so I don't suspect any wires pinched but have no other ideas what could have caused this.

Any ideas?
 
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I don't have any similar experience but maybe...If it's on the driver side there is a ground-wire that attaches high on the inner fender. Maybe it's broken? Of-course the fuse box is just above the wheel well on the driver side too, it's possible something got crimped or pinched in there?
 
So I got into a small fender bender this evening where my 4Runner lightly side swiped another car coming into my lane.
Besides being sick to my stomach about he minor damage to my fender, another issue appears to have surfaced. When I turn on either the running or headlights, all of the back lighting for the dash and HVAC controls turns off.
Very minor body damage so I don't suspect any wires pinched but have no other ideas what could have caused this.

Any ideas?

Hi Mike,

Try pulling out two fuses, one at a time. The first... the Tail 10A fuse located in the driver-side fuse-box. This circuit is coming from the Main body ECU Compu; which controls the Instrument Cluster! Then pull the D/L-2 25A fuse. After pulling each fuse, turn on your headlights and see if your still dropping your I/C; I suspect a short circuit in the exterior lighting system which may be creating a problem for the main body ECU.

EDIT: ...We'll just go down the list of fuses that are related until we are able to isolate the problem, regards!
 
Last edited:
Hi Mike,

Try pulling out two fuses, one at a time. The first... the Tail 10A fuse located in the driver-side fuse-box. This circuit is coming from the Main body ECU Compu; which controls the Instrument Cluster! Then pull the D/L-2 25A fuse (driving lights). After pulling each fuse, turn on your headlights and see if your still dropping your I/C; I suspect a short circuit in the exterior lighting system which may be creating a problem for the main body ECU.

EDIT: ...We'll just go down the list of fuses that are related until we are able to isolate the problem, regards!

I just printed out the wiring diagram to assist in isolating the problem, and to keep here on file for future reference. I've mimicked the path of the wires of interest in pen, and placed arrows at the fuses position for ease of I.D. Two of the lights in question are circled in red marker; See below:



I'll be around to go further with this should you need any assistance!

Cheers
 
Hi Mike ...just a thought,

I've been studying a few schematics related to the way you described your issues and there's a chance that the body ECU may have taken a power spike at the time of the incident, causing it to malfunction.... hoping that's all. You can try pulling the D/L-2 25A fuse and leaving it out for 'no less than' four hrs.

If the ecu was spiked, causing it to malfunction, it would've had no chance to reset (boot) due to the HOT AT ALL TIMES D/L-2 25A power source. You can even pull the fuse at night when you're not expecting to go out again 'til morning; but it will time to be sure that it's had sufficient time for it's caps/memory to fully drain.

Try that and be sure to let us know how you made out!

rig
 
Thank you all for the information. It turns out somehow the dimmer switch was turned all the way down. My head was not with it when I first realized the issue was occurring.

Small victory for sure but still sick to my stomach over everything.

Thank you for everyone's help. Very useful and helpful information!
 
Thank you all for the information. It turns out somehow the dimmer switch was turned all the way down. My head was not with it when I first realized the issue was occurring.

Small victory for sure but still sick to my stomach over everything.

Thank you for everyone's help. Very useful and helpful information!

Best fix there is! Glad it was simple and good luck with the fender repair
 
"Thank you all for the information. It turns out somehow the dimmer switch was turned all the way down..."

Hi Mike,

I was under the impression that the I.C.'s back-lighting came on but would go off whenever you were using the headlights... anyway I'm glad you got it going again!

rig
 
The damage is minimal but still a $2,100 repair estimate. The front passenger tire was also damaged and blew out as I was forced to the curb by the driver coming into my lane.
Sucks terribly to have this happen to a 3 month old vehicle and a week before Christmas, but it most certainly could have been worse.
 

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Back light issue

I'm having a similar situation as the original poster except I haven't been in an accident.

I was taking the dash panel apart where the dimmer switch is adjusting some wiring for my dual battery monitor. I unplugged both the dimmer switch and the mirror adjustment switch. When I finished and plugged both switches back in the dimmer switch does not work at all. The gauge lights and radio brightness are on full blast. Adjusting the dimmer does nothing. The mirror adjustment switch works as it should.
I took the switch out, checked the connections, reinstalled with no change.

Any ideas???
Thanks
James
2017 TRD OR
 
Checked fuses

A bit of an update. I have checked all fuses (even those in which I was sure had nothing to do with the dimmer) along with the relays and have found absolutely no reason why the dimmer switch is no longer functional. I've put a new switch in and with the key turned on but vehicle not started I can hear a "click" from the engine bay when the dimmer switch is manipulated. It's coming from the inverter relay. I swapped it out with another relay and still issue. The dash lights and the backlight for the radio are on but stuck on their brightest levels.
Any ideas???
Thanks
 

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