Gentlemen, Check Your Radiator Cap

[Tyler James Inc]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
Interesting.
The OEM cap Amazon said fits my rig(I know; it's funny) was a different part number than either of the caps you posted- 16401-20353- and it's the same kPa and design as my original cap.

 

[TheDurk]

[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
Interesting.
The OEM cap Amazon said fits my rig(I know; it's funny) was a different part number than either of the caps you posted- 16401-20353- and it's the same kPa and design as my original cap.

Toyota updates p/n's all the time without any obvious need. The numbers I gave are from toyodiy several years ago, and toyodiy tends to have the original p/n's as produced, before any post-production updates. Your number isn't even in the toyodiy database.

They may have consolidated numbers, changed suppliers, made a minor change, or who knows what.

If I check my '99 at Conicelli (my goto on-line dealer close to me), I also get 16401-20353. If I ask for the original 16401-72090, they show 16401-20353 as an update:

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=16401-72090

So it looks like they have decided to retrospectively spec to 1.1 bar. That was not the case the last time I researched this. It may just be they finally exhausted their entire stock of 0.9 bar caps.

 

[Unner]

The spec changed during original production at some point between 1.1 and 0.9. There is a thread on it somewhere. My '99 came with 16401-72090 at 0.9 bar:

Later years came with 16401-62100 at 1.1 bar:

I'm not sure where the switch was (but maybe 2000?) and I never seen clarity about a retrospective change. I've stuck with 0.9 which has always been available. Updated parts numbers are all over the place.

Yeah that was a thread I made a while back I think you're talking about. It's just funny that the first time I went in they gave me a .9 bar cap and this time I got a 1.1 bar cap... Truck has been fine for 35k miles with the .9 bar cap though.

Toyota updates p/n's all the time without any obvious need. The numbers I gave are from toyodiy several years ago, and toyodiy tends to have the original p/n's as produced, before any post-production updates. Your number isn't even in the toyodiy database.

They may have consolidated numbers, changed suppliers, made a minor change, or who knows what.

If I check my '99 at Conicelli (my goto on-line dealer close to me), I also get 16401-20353. If I ask for the original 16401-72090, they show 16401-20353 as an update:

https://parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/?p=catalog&mode=search&search_in=all&search_str=16401-72090

So it looks like they have decided to retrospectively spec to 1.1 bar. That was not the case the last time I researched this. It may just be they finally exhausted their entire stock of 0.9 bar caps.

I think it might have something to do with them consolidating Toyota and Lexus parts here lately.

 

[aa.allen]

I hate to revive a 18 month old tread but this happened to me tonight. The plate I circled in red broke off and went in the radiator. Attempts to pull it out were unsuccessful. I’m worried this is going to get caught in the radiator and cause damage or overheat. I don’t think it would make it into the motor. Is it true as the OP stated that it’s is okay to run with it in there with no harm? Someone please calm my nerves or even give me the bad news. If it is going to cause damage I guess I’m pulling the radiator this weekend

 

[pluton]

That piece is too big to pass through the slots that I see when I look down into the top tank of my OEM [replacement]radiator. Water flow is down, normally.
Is there any scenario possible where the water/coolant could ever flow backwards into the top of the engine? ??
How old is the radiator? If it's over 10 or 12 years, and especially if your 4R has an auto trans, you are due for a new one anyway, and it's pretty easy to change.

 

[4Runner4TW]

My cap failed a few years ago after a long drive up I 17 in Arizona. Luckily we made it to our destination before it let go. The ride home was all down hill.

A few weeks ago I replaced the radiator cause the temps were higher than I wanted when on the highway. All is good now

 

[sakoluvr]

Don't worry about it. Just replace the cap with a new one. As said, if your radiator is old, replace it along with a new tstat and hoses. If there is pitting on the mating surface of the water intake, replace that too.

 

[mtbtim]

I hate to revive a 18 month old tread but this happened to me tonight. The plate I circled in red broke off and went in the radiator. Attempts to pull it out were unsuccessful. I’m worried this is going to get caught in the radiator and cause damage or overheat. I don’t think it would make it into the motor. Is it true as the OP stated that it’s is okay to run with it in there with no harm? Someone please calm my nerves or even give me the bad news. If it is going to cause damage I guess I’m pulling the radiator this weekend

Those broken pieces won't make it into the engine. If it will make you sleep better, you could pull the radiator, turn it upside and shake. There's a good chance you can get the loose parts to fall out. But, even better yet, replace the radiator as preventative maintenance so you don't get stuck somewhere in BFE if you radiator decides to spring a leak. There's also the extra insurance of avoiding a trans cooler failure and getting the dreaded pink milkshake.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Only Toyota rad caps have fallen apart on me. It's annoying.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LittleCaesar]

Motorad has been terrible for me; Stant for the most part has treated me well.

But if it feasible, buy OEM.

 

[aa.allen]

Those broken pieces won't make it into the engine. If it will make you sleep better, you could pull the radiator, turn it upside and shake. There's a good chance you can get the loose parts to fall out. But, even better yet, replace the radiator as preventative maintenance so you don't get stuck somewhere in BFE if you radiator decides to spring a leak. There's also the extra insurance of avoiding a trans cooler failure and getting the dreaded pink milkshake.

Thank you! I also got a few PM’s that put my mind to ease. I’m going to pull the radiator as soon as I can. It may not be in the next few days but soon. It needs a good flush anyway I’m sure.

 

[apohl17]

Thanks for bringing this to the top. Sure enough, mine was toast as well.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

 

[RBLACAUSA]

Mine came apart today when I tried to remove it. Not sure when was the last time it was taken off. I don't recall ever removing it, and I doubt the mechanic removed it this past June at it's major service interval : (.

Seems like the plastic and rubber inside pretty much disintegrated.The larger metal disc part was still wedged in the radiator but fortunately I was able to remove it. For sure was an "oh crap!" moment.

$20-ish for new OEM cap.
Now to start researching a new radiator for PM. Seems like the 100 series Cruiser owners have been going thru a replacement cycle on their the past 5+ yrs. I imagine same will hold true for the 4th gens.

Data points: '04 4Runner V8 4WD with 107K miles, original owner. Coastal CA.

 

[brillo_76]

I say it's best to change them with the rads. Or if your reservoir it not pulling and dumping the antifreeze properly.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I bought 3 3rd gens so far. A 96 and two 97’s all three had broken rad caps and ran unpressurized Until I replaced the cap. I use the Napa cap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

I bought 3 3rd gens so far. A 96 and two 97’s all three had broken rad caps and ran unpressurized Until I replaced the cap. I use the Napa cap.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good to know. My guess is a have a few not pressurized either. I check into it..



Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[brillo_76]

I think I will test mine before saying its good or bad as I havent had one fall apart yet.

This is how it's done incase anyone is interested.

https://itstillruns.com/test-radiator-cap-5911371.html

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[Greenmachine86]

I just had to replace mine at 155k. I about a aftermarket for now. But wanna replace with oem cap

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I just had to replace mine at 155k. I about a aftermarket for now. But wanna replace with oem cap

I’ve not had a Napa cap fall apart yet. Three OEM caps all fell apart. I’m sticking with the Napa. Napa parts have never let me down yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk