geofox784
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Geofox's 15' Grey Trail Build / Adventure Thread
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geofox784
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DDM Tuning Saber 50W LED High Beam Review
Just finished writing this in depth review for trail4runner.com of the DDM Tuning Saber High Beams. They are incredibly bright!
Full review here
Just finished writing this in depth review for trail4runner.com of the DDM Tuning Saber High Beams. They are incredibly bright!
Full review here
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Exciting things to come... Goose Gear drawers and full sleeping platform delivered today.
What height drawers did you go with? I'm looking at this and considering the 8 inch high. Is the correct size to fill the whole trunk the 36 inch depth ones? I cant measure as my 4runner is only just been built in Japan. Take delivery in April. Do you have any pics of the installed plates?
geofox784
New member
I got the 10" high because it lines up with the top of the wheel well bumps. 36" drawers are correct. This allows for the mattress to slide over all the way to the wall. Working on an article for trail4runner that will include a ton of pics.
Awesome. I see so you can have a wider mattress. I'm thinking of going with 8" as eventually I want to mount a fridge on a slider on top for longer trips and sleep on a packed or RT tent. Someone also commented stating that if you get the higher drawers you are very close to the ceiling.
Cant wait to see the picks.
geofox784
New member
Upgrades over the past few months, part 1.
Did an oil change + front and rear diffs + transfer case fluid + prop shaft lube. I found that at roughly 60K miles the transfer case and front diff fluid still looked clean, but the rear was definitely dirty.
My rear view camera shorted out after washing the car so I had to replace it. Instead of buying an OEM camera for $500+ I found a way to use an aftermarket camera with some modifications.
Added nytosc's "Ultimate Camping Mod" controls to the rear hatch. Instead of running the wires from the hatch to inside I opted to keep everything in the hatch. Much easier to install that way.
Added a chinese TRD Pro front bumper trim as well as "raptor" lights. I custom made the mounts for the lights using my 3D printer. I also "smoked" them with some vinyl tint. They are wired to my side marker parking light, so I can still have the car 100% blacked out with the engine running if I desire.
Note: A white bulb housing is shown here. I ended up going with amber bulb housings.
Also switched to a larger compressor, the Smittybilt 2781. My VIAIR 300P filled a tire from 20PSI to 40PSI in about 3 min. The new compressor fills it in about 2.25 min. I was expecting about 1.5min given the specs, so I am a little disappointed. Eventually I plan on mounting it inside the engine bay along with a system of tubing that runs air lines to each wheel.
Did an oil change + front and rear diffs + transfer case fluid + prop shaft lube. I found that at roughly 60K miles the transfer case and front diff fluid still looked clean, but the rear was definitely dirty.
My rear view camera shorted out after washing the car so I had to replace it. Instead of buying an OEM camera for $500+ I found a way to use an aftermarket camera with some modifications.
Added nytosc's "Ultimate Camping Mod" controls to the rear hatch. Instead of running the wires from the hatch to inside I opted to keep everything in the hatch. Much easier to install that way.
Added a chinese TRD Pro front bumper trim as well as "raptor" lights. I custom made the mounts for the lights using my 3D printer. I also "smoked" them with some vinyl tint. They are wired to my side marker parking light, so I can still have the car 100% blacked out with the engine running if I desire.
Note: A white bulb housing is shown here. I ended up going with amber bulb housings.
Also switched to a larger compressor, the Smittybilt 2781. My VIAIR 300P filled a tire from 20PSI to 40PSI in about 3 min. The new compressor fills it in about 2.25 min. I was expecting about 1.5min given the specs, so I am a little disappointed. Eventually I plan on mounting it inside the engine bay along with a system of tubing that runs air lines to each wheel.
geofox784
New member
Upgrades over the past few months, part 2.
Added a block heater. I normally have it parked in a heated garage, but when I am working on night shift the outside temp where it is parked can reach -25F.
Added an RCI skid plate.
Added lower link RCI skid plates.
Added Rago storage panels.
On the left I have a shovel, axe, trauma kit, and LED road flares.
On the right I have a scraper / snow brush. The bottom is reserved for a future electrical project. (Battery status indicator, 12V outlets, USB outlets, 18650 battery charger, and inverter.)
Added a block heater. I normally have it parked in a heated garage, but when I am working on night shift the outside temp where it is parked can reach -25F.
Added an RCI skid plate.
Added lower link RCI skid plates.
Added Rago storage panels.
On the left I have a shovel, axe, trauma kit, and LED road flares.
On the right I have a scraper / snow brush. The bottom is reserved for a future electrical project. (Battery status indicator, 12V outlets, USB outlets, 18650 battery charger, and inverter.)
geofox784
New member
Requires removing at least the bottom part of the seat, but that's very easy. I removed the whole seat because leaving it in its wasted storage space. Not hard to do either.
Not sure I understand your second question. You just leave the seats in and install only the drawers. The drawers don't take any of the seat space.
pDubs
New member
Thanks. Sorry I meant going from having drawers and a full sleeping platform for weekend camping trips to having a functioning back seat again to fit my 2 kids car seats, etc when not doing camping trips.
Removing the seat bottoms looks easy but can you fold the seat backs back up?
Removing the seat bottoms looks easy but can you fold the seat backs back up?
geofox784
New member
You can fold them back up but it will require removing the sleeping platform. Once assembled that should only require undoing the strap and undoing 4 allen bolts. The allen bolts are tricky to get to. Not something I would want to deal with every weekend but not terribly difficult either.
geofox784
New member
Updates and upgrades
Replaced my iPad mount with a Ram Mounts / Proclip combo. Added a small screw to the bottom to make it even more stable.
ProClip 834492
RAM-347U
RAM-201U
RAM-HOL-UN8BCU
Installed a ScanGauge II to show tire pressures and held it in place with a 3D printed adapter. I modified it with a small screw and a notch on the radio hanging button so that the radio can't rotate out of place.
Replaced my RAM phone mounts phone holder with a sliding clamp that used the same ball size as RAM so I could still use the rest of the RAM components. I didn't like how with the RAM phone mount I needed two hands to put it in place. The sliding clamp was originally too strong so I had to modify it by removing one of the springs. That was very difficult because the bolts are aluminum and loctited into place. I had to use a small heat gun to melt the loctite to remove the bolts without shearing it. I broke one mount before I knew I had to heat it up. I'm really happy with the phone mount now.
Replaced my iPad mount with a Ram Mounts / Proclip combo. Added a small screw to the bottom to make it even more stable.
ProClip 834492
RAM-347U
RAM-201U
RAM-HOL-UN8BCU
Installed a ScanGauge II to show tire pressures and held it in place with a 3D printed adapter. I modified it with a small screw and a notch on the radio hanging button so that the radio can't rotate out of place.
Replaced my RAM phone mounts phone holder with a sliding clamp that used the same ball size as RAM so I could still use the rest of the RAM components. I didn't like how with the RAM phone mount I needed two hands to put it in place. The sliding clamp was originally too strong so I had to modify it by removing one of the springs. That was very difficult because the bolts are aluminum and loctited into place. I had to use a small heat gun to melt the loctite to remove the bolts without shearing it. I broke one mount before I knew I had to heat it up. I'm really happy with the phone mount now.
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geofox784
New member
CB Radio
Installed a Midland 75-822 CB Radio with a 3' Firestik II and Rago Fab Mount. Used a chassis mount 239 Connector to give to make the radio easily removable. SWR 1.4 or lower across the whole band. Eventually I'll do a full how to article.
3D printed an adapter so I could attach the mic holder without drilling.
Installed a Midland 75-822 CB Radio with a 3' Firestik II and Rago Fab Mount. Used a chassis mount 239 Connector to give to make the radio easily removable. SWR 1.4 or lower across the whole band. Eventually I'll do a full how to article.
3D printed an adapter so I could attach the mic holder without drilling.
Good heavens man you are loaded and ready for anything, amazing !
Just wondering do you have a write up anywhere on how you hooked up that LED strip lighting across the inside of the liftgate ? Eh, that would be cool to have it on a dimmer switch for stealth sleeping in the back.
Thanks and congrats on your build !
:banana:
Just wondering do you have a write up anywhere on how you hooked up that LED strip lighting across the inside of the liftgate ? Eh, that would be cool to have it on a dimmer switch for stealth sleeping in the back.
Thanks and congrats on your build !
:banana:
geofox784
New member
I've taken photos and plan on making a guide soon.
geofox784
New member
New installs
I installed the CBI Gas tank skid. I now have a set of full RCI skids (engine, trans, transfer). The only skid I am missing is the rear diff, and I'll have that on soon. I went with the CBI skid because of the lip that is built around it. (The RCI gas skid does not have one).
I also installed a Alpine Electronics PWE-S8 Subwoofer. I went with this instead of the already written about S/O subwoofer because those that already have the S/O sub didn't seem to be impressed with it. I am satisfied with the Alpine sub. It fit perfectly under the drivers seat and the sound output is great. It does a great job of filling in the lows that the stock sound system is missing. I won't be a window rattling monster, but I gives some solid output during bass heavy music.
I installed the CBI Gas tank skid. I now have a set of full RCI skids (engine, trans, transfer). The only skid I am missing is the rear diff, and I'll have that on soon. I went with the CBI skid because of the lip that is built around it. (The RCI gas skid does not have one).
I also installed a Alpine Electronics PWE-S8 Subwoofer. I went with this instead of the already written about S/O subwoofer because those that already have the S/O sub didn't seem to be impressed with it. I am satisfied with the Alpine sub. It fit perfectly under the drivers seat and the sound output is great. It does a great job of filling in the lows that the stock sound system is missing. I won't be a window rattling monster, but I gives some solid output during bass heavy music.
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