GMV's Build Thread

[gmv4k]

Rear axle seals and bearings

A few weeks ago my rear axle seals started leaking. It looked like it was pouring out. I've been checking regularly waiting for this happen. After a few weeks my rear wheel bearing were getting really loud. I was fortunate to have a friend help with replace the bearings and axle seals.


I sprayed the nuts holding the axle a few weeks before with kroil. They came out fairly easily even on a rust bucket. Undo the brake line and pull the cotter for the ebrake. You can have the axle out in 10-15 minutes, easy.

Taking out axle.

Axle out.

Removing the old axle seals took less than 1 minute each. We used this Amazon.com: Lisle 56750 Seal Puller: Automotive


Shot of bearing

Bearing separator

We used this bearing separator to the remove the top retainer and abs ring. I didn't want to risk damaging the axle by cutting it. You could have probably used a smaller one. This took a few minutes to remove each. Pretty easy. Could have easily re-used the abs ring. Next time I would put a piece of metal underneath the separator so not to damage the bearing housing. Oh yeah we had to find other giant puller screws to use on the separator to screw the retainer out and abs ring out.

http://amzn.to/1KzHdFk

Close up bearing separator

We did some measurements before removing the retainers for the 2nd axle.

5mm

12.5mm

Making axle puller

The axle puller

The whole job took about 11 hours. But 6 hours of that was running around finding metal, cutting and welding the puller. 2.5 hours for getting the rear brakes back together. What a PITA! Installing the seals only took a few minutes with the right sized seal installer kit. My friend installed the bearing by tapping it with a hammer, this took maybe 2 minutes each side. I would have used a piece of wood myself. Pressing the axle out and pressing it back in took some time, it felt like we were pulling on the jack handle for 20 minutes. I think we maxed out at about 12 tons.


This link helped

Toyota Maintenance: Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings and Seals


Bad wheel bearing

I got new backing plates.

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I ended up doing the [MENTION=78997]Drcoffee[/MENTION] method with the flipped retainer 4mm from the threaded surface.

We installed the abs ring and retained by just using our home made puller tool and hammering it in, no press. You can just find some steel pipe, I want to say that it is 1 3/4 inner diameter (big enough to slip past the axle shaft but small enough to press the retainer).

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/114743-possible-solution-leaking-axle-seals.html

And of course I read [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] write up a few times and used his parts list

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html

Hard to find part number

90179-10067 for the nuts that attach the axle to the housing. You'll need 8 of them, 4 for each side. I got new studs, nut and back plates.


I was really worried about taking it to a shop only to have them leak again, which is why I wanted to be involved in the process. If I were to do it again I would remove the first retainer and abs ring myself, and then take it to a shop and only have them install the bearing and the first retainer. Then do the rest myself. We put the abs ring 17.5mm in from the shiny metal and put the reversed retainer 4mm from the top. 700 miles now, so far so good. No more rumbling, groaning noises.

This video was taken while I was driving to my friends house, then the second half is 11 hours later when we finished. If you listen carefully you can hear the bad wheel bearing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/vz0Ln0xbIK8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[gmv4k]

Unlimited bumper clad trim

My truck was missing the passenger side bumper cladding. I ordered a new one bc I got impatient. It came unpainted and black so it sat for over a year.

I had some plasti-dip for my wheels and decided to paint it figuring it would be close.

Side View

I order it from here

https://www.dipyourcar.com/True-Metallic-Plasti-Dip-Spray.html

Aluminum True Metallic and I used some Glossifier on it too.

I think I did 3 coats of aluminum and 1 coat Glossifier.

Close enough for now.

 

[gmv4k]

Key FOB battery

Incase you need a new battery it's a CR2032

 

[gmv4k]

Rear trailing Arm

Got some used trailing arms installed. Took about 20 minutes. Support the truck frame. Support the diff on a jack. Put in new nuts and bolts too.

 

[gmv4k]

Trying to keep up with the thread... I'm a little behind.

A few weeks ago I finally installed my front lift. Tundra 5100 with TRD springs. I forgot to measure before and after but I think I got about 2 inches with the perch on the 1st clip. The truck now sits level. I really liked the rake, but it rides soo nice now.

The install was ok. My buddy had to grind out the original nut holding the strut in place on each side, the one in the back of the three. That took 15 minutes or so on each side. Wasn't fun.

Compressing the spring was actually really easy. I guess if you're doing the 2nd perch it could get scary. I just compressed it enough to get the top screw on and then tightened the screw. Pretty easy actually.

I love the ride now. I still get a few clunks from the passenger side, I think it's the spring hitting the uca. I thought I clocked it correctly. I guess not.

 

[gmv4k]

Vermont Overland

Finally got a chance to really go off-roading, first time ever. I decided I wanted to be hand-held the first time out so I went with a group. But it the truck did amazing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/iRSIUS6TxuU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

This is with 265/75/16 Cooper ATP's with 35k on them. No airing down. After this trip I had more respect for these tires than I had before, but they are still getting loud as they wear. I actually had to use the locker and it was absolutely incredible.

I finally have a slight feel for what the truck is capable of. When we first started the day I was nervous bc I had the lowest truck with the worst tires, but I think I was the only one with a locker. By then end of the day I wished would have found more challenging stuff bc everything was so easy with the locker.

 

[gmv4k]

New tires

OK, now I'm playing catch up with my build.

Last winter I installed some 265/65/17 Michelin LTX MS/2 I got from [MENTION=122121]Trialrun[/MENTION].

OMG, it's like driving a luxury sports car compared to my old setup with Cooper ATP 265/75/16's. I'm cruising at 85+ mph now, compared to 70 mph before. My mpg hasn't changed but it's probably bc I'm driving a lot faster than before.

I didn't see much snow last season (I drove 10 minutes one day in the snow) and I haven't been off road. As much as I want AT tires, I guess I don't really need them.

Sorry I don't have any pictures. I put them on my Tundra six spoke wheels.

 

[gmv4k]

Rear Axle

WARNING the next few pictures are not for the faint of heart or squeamish.

This is the spoiler

So I had a hole in my rear diff and gear oil was pretty much spilling out from where the brake line bracket used to be. I was adding about 1/2 a liter every couple of weeks. Plus it was pretty rusty, I'll let the pictures tell the story. It was scary!

Thanks to [MENTION=89223]xcmtb83[/MENTION], I got a new rear diff elocker housing! Thanks I really needed it. This was actually a pretty easy job. The housing came with all the bolts I needed.

Removed the tires, drain the diff, remove the left/right axles (4 bolts each), remove the drive shaft (4 bolts), remove the 3rd member (11 bolts), swap over a abs sensor, brackets etc. Reassemble.


The gross, leaking axle.

Look at the trackbar bracket

Which one looks better?

And installed

Rust

I should have taken a pic from the inside so you can see where the hole forms

My buddy welded some scraps, a few years ago, to hold me over till I found a new housing

The whole job took about 7 hours. We were going slow and I spent 1.5 hours angle grinding the frame and applying POR-15. I did one layer of the rear frame and used less than half of 1 quart, fyi. The Eastwood Rust Encapsulator wasn't holding up very well.

New brake lines from camelbak were a perfect fit and cheap. I think they were $14 each, definitely the way to go. (pn 4732535280, 4732635060). Before my brakes lines were just dangling in mid air.

I used grey RTV. No leaks so far. This write up helped. 4Runners.org - E-locker Retrofit


I feel so much better. And now I'm finally done with all my maintenance and it only took 4 years.


Hopefully 4wd and the elocker work. I haven't tested them out yet.

Next up supercharger!

 

[gmv4k]

Update. 185K.

Replaced muffler and tailpipe with the Walker SoundFx Muffler. The Walker Quiet Flow lasted 3.5 years / 40K before it rusted through from the inside out. For the price I wasn't too upset. The SoundFX sounds about the same.

Changed my front rotor and pads to Bosch brand. Last set lasted 4 years / 40K. I was hoping for more but not bad considering how I drive and how heavy the truck is.

Fixed my power steering whine by doing a drain and fill. I used a pump instead of a turkey baster (i had one but it didn't work). The pump took me less than a minute to empty the reservoir. Engine off, pump it out, refill, turn on truck, turn steering wheel a few times, turn off. Repeat x3. No more whine. Used Valvoline MaxLife ATF synthetic, hopefully it doesn't cause a leak somewhere.

http://amzn.to/2lCWI8E


Fixed my rear hatch strut problem. I changed them recently to something but they didn't hold. I got strongarm 6815. I changed only 1 side with 6815 and it's working like it should. I'm afraid to install both sides because of how fast it might lift the rear hatch. 40 degrees out and it's working great. So far this one strut is perfect. $44 on amazon for 2.