Got a leak, need input

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Edit 12/31/2015: See updates in this post:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/82316-got-leak-need-input-7.html#post2223410

For the past couple weeks I've noticed oil where I've been parking. I kept an eye on motor oil, it was fine so I figured it was someone else parking there. After this kept happening, I took a closer look and found a leak from around the transfer case. I showed it to a guy who does my mechanic work, and he said he could probably fix it, just didn't know anything about the setup or what parts would be needed. The leak is coming from in between the transfer case and the transfer shift actuator assembly. Any ideas how big of a deal this is to fix, and what's required? Here's the page out of the service manual I found showing the parts, just doesn't go into detail.

 

[eskim0chaos]

Through the dealer it sucks. It's a $2 seal thats mounted to the actuator. The only way to get it off is to have the dealer drop the transfer case and replace the seal. IIR the entire actuator needs to be replaced.

Total of easily over $2000 at the dealer because of labor.

I think some have used some RTV silicone to seal it. YMMV

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Through the dealer it sucks. It's a $2 seal thats mounted to the actuator. The only way to get it off is to have the dealer drop the transfer case and replace the seal. IIR the entire actuator needs to be replaced.

Total of easily over $2000 at the dealer because of labor.

I think some have used some RTV silicone to seal it. YMMV

Ouch, but that's what I was afraid of. Any idea where I can get more info on this? Really not looking forward to a $2k repair bill, that'd put quite a kink in my mod plans.

 

[12guns]

First off find a local mechanic, labor will be MUCH less as long as they are willing and able to do the work. How much is leaking? Off the top of my head I don't know any kind of "stop leak" for gear oil/transfer case lube, not that it would be a quick fix anyway, but always worth a try. Hope you find a cheaper fix. Is the actuator bolt on? I would guess so. If that's right, I would certianly try to tighten the bolts 1/4 turn or so. I've sealed up leaky oil pan and trans pan gaskets by a simple turn of a bolt. Again, may not work, but worth a try if you can get to the bolts. Good luck!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I haven't taken a close look at it, just stopped by the mechanics shop to see what he thought. I'll take a look and see if there's something to be tightened. The 4x4 system works great, goes in and out of 4lo easily, center diff locks in just as it should, so I don't see having to replace the actuator, unless that's the only way to get the seal.

When I park overnight, it'll have about a 3 inch round damp spot where it has leaked. Not a puddle, but you can tell it was somewhat of a slow drip.

 

[12guns]

2K and dropping the whole transfer case seems excessive to me, but if you can't access the actuator, that may be right. I have no idea w/o looking at mine to compare. I can tell you I would clean if good, tighten if possible, and maybe gunk up some RTV sealer if it would stick, it might work. Not a long term fix, but who knows. Getting a clean oil free surface is the problem. I hope it can be tightened!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

You and me both! Where the actuator is mounted to the transfer case is in plain sight I believe. I've done a little reading on it, and it doesn't look good. Some have found a seal kit that includes the needed seal, most have had to replace the actuator (~$1000 just for the part). Even if I can find the seal, you've gotta pull the t-case and split it open to fully remove the actuator and replace the seal. Numbers I've seen online show that Toyota calls for 12 hours labor, so $1000 part + 12 hours labor at $90 an hour = $2080 + tax. OUCH!! I'm gonna run by the local parts store to see if they might have something available to try a temp fix.

 

[chaz]

not that id use but it says this stuff can be put in diffs so maybe a transfer case. White Shepherd Stop Leak & Conditioner - BLU49499

 

[kai920]

I was once looking at a 2004 T4R with the same leak. I didn't buy it because I took it to the dealer when I test drove I to get an estimate. It was the o-ring seal where the actuator is connected to the t-case. $900 to replace the o-ring. Had to remove the t-case and disassemble to get to it. 2k sounds a bit steep, but I guess prices would vary dealer to dealer and may not be exactly the same issue. The guy selling it later called me and said he tightened the bolts and it fixed the leak. I was wary of that, but had already bought another T4R anyways so it didn't matter. So tightening to bolts may also work.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Will try tightening the bolts, only problem is I'd really want a torque wrench to do that, and I don't have one. I was reading where one member tried snugging them a little and overtightned, caused some major issues.

It seems there are varying opinions on this depending on what dealer or what year it is. The $2000 figure includes a new actuator. Most have went this route. Some get lucky and they are able to get the seal alone, and thus the cost is much cheaper ($900 figure sounds about right for the labor). Still, I had just put together a nice little mod list and about to place the order, now this.

 

[eskim0chaos]

I remember someone over on 120 had found instructions to remove the actuator without dropping the transfer case. I dont remember if they replaced the actuator or not but they did do it.

Search over there as they are more oriented towards "real" problems. This is a huge issue for torsen center diffs in general. The one in my S5 is known to leak too.

When it happens to me, Im going to try some silicone because from what I understand it barely drips.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I'm gonna go the silicone route at first just to get by, and if it doesn't work I'll bite the bullet and have it fixed. However, IF you could get the actuator off without dropping the transfer case AND could get just the seal, it should be much, much cheaper.

On the silicone, are guys just putting it on the outside joint, or are they actually pulling the actuator back and using it to form a seal between the transfer case and actuator? I searched over on 120 and didn't see it, I'll try using different keywords. Thanks!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

not that id use but it says this stuff can be put in diffs so maybe a transfer case. White Shepherd Stop Leak & Conditioner - BLU49499

I figured it was time I update this post. I tried this stuff chaz mentioned and it worked like a charm!!! I changed fluid and added the White Shepherd about 3-4 weeks ago and not a drop since has leaked best I can tell. We will see how long it holds up, hopefully for a good while. Thanks chaz!!!!

 

[chaz]

glad to hear it worked, at least for the meantime.

 

[JB.]

I figured it was time I update this post. I tried this stuff chaz mentioned and it worked like a charm!!! I changed fluid and added the White Shepherd about 3-4 weeks ago and not a drop since has leaked best I can tell. We will see how long it holds up, hopefully for a good while. Thanks chaz!!!!

Good news, thanks for the update.

I hope you're planning on keeping the 4runner a while. I'd love to hear how things are going in a year or so.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

No plans at all to get rid of it any time soon. I've had it since August 2008 and grow to love it more each day. I'll try to update this thread from time to time. The company lists it as a true pernament fix, we'll see.

 

[Zuke]

Please do update us often, even if its weekly/monthly. My 4r started the drip and the dealer gave me the fatal $1800 quote to fix it. I would love to spend $20 on leak stop than $1800.

 

[Ridger]

Happy to hear, Ark!

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Update: I can see a small amount of fluid on the actuator, just enough to form a drop. I've wiped away and it comes back in about 4-5 days. When parking, I've still not noticed any type of puddle. I'd say it slowed it by about 90%, may still be a slight leak though. I can live with it now as I haven't found even a small puddle under it since the fluid was added. I'll continue to update periodically.

 

[zerowkul98]

Ark, bro...

In case it helps, ive called around to 3+ toyota dealership shops to get the lowest price on fixes and i use that to negotiate. Theyve usually done their best to beat each other on price (especially the 90k service! i got my local dealership to drop $700 off their price!). With the actuator issue, id prolly get that fixed b4 it grew into a bigger issue.

Just my 2 cents.