Group buy : DC power Engineering 270amp alternator
- Thread starter Okki
- Start date
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
It's very early in this thread, "this alternator will not increase the voltage output, it will only provide more amperage during periods of heavy load." Unless you pay for the more expensive unit with the external voltage regulator. Honestly it's cheaper and easier to use a dremel on the GM diode. There's other options in that thread along with some good information as well.
Measured through the OBDII port without the GM diode my 270A was only putting out 13.1-13.8v. With the GM diode I've been seeing 13.8-14.2v.
grumpy514
New member
Interesting, you're saying they offer 2 different kinds at 2 different price points? I have a 2014 4Runner with almost 60k miles on it. Alternator only pushes out 13.6-.7v at idle or driving the vehicle. I read for AGM setups you want to get it above 14.
Power wise I use mainly LED lights but once in a blue moon I do run the 10k lb winch I have installed. You think I would be best just doing this "GM Diode Mod" rather than replacing the alternator?
I wonder why these trucks charge so low with the voltage, any vehicle I've seen with a good working alternator always charges between 14.2-14.7V. 13.6v is low. I need to throw on an AMP clamp and see if I can get a reading later today.
Friggin Idiot
Senior Member
There was mention somewhere buried in here of an optional 270A with an external voltage regulator that you'd have to call directly to order at additional expense.
You're talking about Amps and Volts together.
An AGM battery suggests minimum of 14v charge rate.
Your 10klb winch has a high amperage draw when under load, though will run even if it's not receiving a full 12v.
It used to be the case that alternators output between 14.2-14.7v, sadly that's no longer the case. Remember in older vehicles when the headlights used to dim when you let off the throttle and stepped on the brakes too. That's because you were both reducing the amperage output (by reducing rpm) and increasing the load (activating more lights). While this isn't as apparent on current vehicles it is more because the voltage is regulated to a more consistent value. I forget exactly where I read it, but most modern vehicle manufacturers are also down-rating the voltage of the alternator in an effort to reduce load on the engine and improve fuel economy. The alternator itself is likely still capable of higher voltage, hence the Voltage Booster Thread. So swapping out the fuse for the GM Diode, LOLSNOW's Voltage Booster, HKB Diode/Fuse or any other like similar device to increase the voltage will not increase the amperage. (Though technically by Ohm's law the available amperage would actually decrease when the voltage increases).
The OEM alternator is capable of output 130A when fully fielded (appropriate accessory rpm, NOT engine rpm or vehicle speed). So at idle and low engine rpm (when accessories turn slower) the output is significantly less, often not enough to run the entirety of the truck and still charge the battery. Keep in mind, most of the time running the truck does not include the power inverter, 12v outlets, headlights, interior lights, high beams, fog lights, and all the other things we've attached to the truck. So it is possible, especially during daytime, for the truck to recharge the battery with the OEM alternator.
The DC 270XP puts out more amperage at idle rpm than the OEM does when fully fielded. IIRC that output is ~180A. Fully fielded is when it is capable of 270A output. Swapping out the OEM alternator for the 270XP will increase the available amperage at all points, however, will not have a noticeable impact on the voltage output since that is still regulated.
The short of it is, if you swap to an AGM battery it would be advised to get a voltage booster of sorts. You could install an alternator with an externally adjustable voltage regulator instead, but that's a much more expensive and difficult option to install if all you're after is bumping the voltage.
For your winch, if you can live with knowing that you are draining away a part of your battery charge the few times you use it, then you don't NEED to install the 270XP. However, the winch will likely run stronger with it because of the additional amperage provided.
Just be aware with the OEM alternator, getting yourself out of the stuck where you needed the winch, you may need to run the vehicle another several hours at better than low rpm to replace that charge. If you're running refrigerators and lights overlanding, your available runtime for these devices will diminish. The combination of a long hard winch pull, followed shortly thereafter by setting up camp, using the array of LED's, then running a small refrigerator all night could leave you with a truck that won't start in the morning.
Hence the desire for a dual battery setup, one high power CCA battery to start and run the vehicle, another deep cycle battery designed and powering the draw of constant loads like the refrigerator. Most dual battery setups look very hard at the 270XP anyway because it can recharge both batteries at a significantly better rate than the OEM alternator.
If you're looking to do both increase amperage and voltage, it may be worth your time to look into the 270XP w/external regulator. BUT given the $6 cost of the GM Diode and 30 seconds with a dremel will increase the voltage, you're probably further ahead that route. LOLSNOW's Voltage booster has an option for "overboost" is designed for very cold climates, that's not available on any other options.
[MENTION=83083]rigtec[/MENTION] did I get this all right?
rigtec
New member
Well, only WRT the fact that the 270-XP Does increase the output voltage; which was part of the reason that I replaced the stock alternator. The Original 130A alternator only generates about 13.4 or .5Vdc, which I think that you mentioned in your post.
But the 270-XP typically puts out 14.01: "See image of my 270's output everyday":
And like you, I know that 13.5V is not enough voltage to guaranty a full battery charge during each drive! I think the reason they set it that way is to decrease the MPG rating when compared to it's strong competitors e.g., Nissan, Honda, Jeep, and the like!
That's also the reason our fenders & Doors are paper thin... even the copper electrical cables are questionably sized; 4-8ga battery to body GND and battery to starter/main-fusebox for weight/cost reduction! SMDH!
rig, cheers!
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geofox784
New member
Also interested in the next group buy. Looks like the following have showed interest:
geofox784(me)
grumpy514
AsAkite
gringo8251
Boulderish
TDMerrittPE
Maj_Beck
j0nb0n
Narat_524
Tuc4R
J.F. Sebastian
AsianAnts
lbaschi1
mlrtime99
EDIT:
robkh1984
CrazyMike
JerseyMike
jhguth
At 14 (now 18) expressing interest it seem like we have enough to shoot for another group buy. How do these usually get organized?
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CrazyMike
Member
I'd be interested in a 2nd group buy as well.
JerseyMike
Member
Add me to the group buy list as well.
geofox784
New member
Looks like 18 now interested...
Did anyone upgrade because they specifically were having problems with the stock alternator or because they felt they needed more volts to charge AGMs? Trying to figure out if the OEM alternator is actually sufficient with a diode "booster" for charging dual AGMs + a few light bars (future upgrades). Just received the arc light voltage booster.
Did anyone upgrade because they specifically were having problems with the stock alternator or because they felt they needed more volts to charge AGMs? Trying to figure out if the OEM alternator is actually sufficient with a diode "booster" for charging dual AGMs + a few light bars (future upgrades). Just received the arc light voltage booster.
rayofsi
New member
same volts as OEM... i just installed mine 2 weeks ago.
JerseyMike
Member
Resurrecting this since I'll be needing to replace the alternator shortly. Are we still thinking group buy or do I just go ahead and order?
Jono.ful
New member
Anyone else noticed a squeal from their new alternator? This started pretty early on for me, and 2 years later I'm nearly pissed off enough to do something about it...
*edit* likely just need a to adjust to belt, or worst case replace the belt, but it's easier to ask a bunch of nerds on the internet then it is to go out to the shop to diagnose it myself ....
*edit* likely just need a to adjust to belt, or worst case replace the belt, but it's easier to ask a bunch of nerds on the internet then it is to go out to the shop to diagnose it myself ....
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