Gut check on suspension mods for LE?

laceofbase

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Can I get a gut check from anyone with experience modifying a 5th gen Limited or experience with these mods?

I've got a 2017 T4R LE with shot (or at least leaking) shocks that need to be replaced. I've wanted to do a level or lift for a while, so now faced with $1750 in parts alone to replace OEM shocks, now seems like the time. Would appreciate feedback on my plan.

This is a daily driver with very occasional dirt roads and trails, 99% pavement and occasionally packed up heavy for a road trip. Looking for a comfortable ride with a little bit of a fun look. No major mods or additions planned after this.

Planning to pull out XREAS and put in a Bilstein 5100 kit with OME coils (2885 front, 2898 rear) with SPC upper control arms. The goal is a 2-2.5" front lift with ~1.5" rear lift. I can get all this done (parts plus labor) for under $1700. Am I missing anything? I don't think I need to replace XREAS with anything, right?

If I do this, I'll end up with a lift on the stock 20" wheels, and I plan to swap those for 17s. A problem for another day.
 

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Planning to pull out XREAS and put in a Bilstein 5100 kit with OME coils (2885 front, 2898 rear) with SPC upper control arms. The goal is a 2-2.5" front lift with ~1.5" rear lift. I can get all this done (parts plus labor) for under $1700. Am I missing anything? I don't think I need to replace XREAS with anything, right?

XREAS is a full system, so you have to replace it all at once, which you already know. Apart from that, there is nothing else to know about XREAS, either it is on your rig or it's not.

As for the lift you're wanting to build, it sounds right but I am not familiar enough to weigh in, but eager to see what your thoughts are after you install. My XREAS needs replacement and I am doing something similar, but I want minimal lift so I am not changing as much as you plan to swap.
 
those springs are meant for significant weight at all times. rear is 3" lift with 400 lbs extra and front is 3" with 150 lbs extra weight. I think that is way too much spring for your intended use on a daily basis. with no bumpers or heavy mods.
 
those springs are meant for significant weight at all times. rear is 3" lift with 400 lbs extra and front is 3" with 150 lbs extra weight. I think that is way too much spring for your intended use on a daily basis. with no bumpers or heavy mods.

Oh, that's interesting. I'll admit I don't understand adjustment possibilities/notches and all that that determine lift height... There are really only 3 options for each, and these are the "medium" coils. My lift guy suggested these, but I'm not sure why.

You're saying using these coils would result in a rough ride, or that the lift would be taller than I want, or both?

From yotomafia:
__________________
Select Front Coil Configuration *
LD (2884) – Light duty coils, intended to be used under stock vehicle weight.
MD (2885) – Medium duty coils, intended to be used under stock weight to gain 2.5″ of lift or under medium weight (70-100lbs) to gain 2″ of lift.
HD (2887) – Heavy duty coils, intended to be used under heavy weight (100lbs+) to gain 2.5″ of lift.

SELECT REAR COIL CONFIGURATION *
LD (2889) – Light duty coils, intended to be used under stock vehicle weight.
MD (2898) – Medium duty coils, intended to be used under stock weight to gain 2.5″ of lift or under medium weight (100-300lbs) to gain 2″ of lift.
HD (2899) – Heavy duty coils, intended to be used under heavy weight (300lbs+) to gain 2.5″ of lift.
__________________
 
Oh, that's interesting. I'll admit I don't understand adjustment possibilities/notches and all that that determine lift height... There are really only 3 options for each, and these are the "medium" coils. My lift guy suggested these, but I'm not sure why.

You're saying using these coils would result in a rough ride, or that the lift would be taller than I want, or both?

From yotomafia:
__________________
Select Front Coil Configuration *
LD (2884) – Light duty coils, intended to be used under stock vehicle weight.
MD (2885) – Medium duty coils, intended to be used under stock weight to gain 2.5″ of lift or under medium weight (70-100lbs) to gain 2″ of lift.
HD (2887) – Heavy duty coils, intended to be used under heavy weight (100lbs+) to gain 2.5″ of lift.

SELECT REAR COIL CONFIGURATION *
LD (2889) – Light duty coils, intended to be used under stock vehicle weight.
MD (2898) – Medium duty coils, intended to be used under stock weight to gain 2.5″ of lift or under medium weight (100-300lbs) to gain 2″ of lift.
HD (2899) – Heavy duty coils, intended to be used under heavy weight (300lbs+) to gain 2.5″ of lift.
__________________

There are MANY other OME spring options other than these. Look at wheelersoffroad and look at all the OME springs for front/rear. Tehy list specs specific to 5th gen 4runner. with those springs you want and no weight you will be bouncing all over the place. they are basically meant for rigs with steel bumpers, winches and full gear in the back.

Old Man Emu 4RUNNER Heavy Load Coil Springs, 440 lbs Constant Load (2898)

from their specs tab:
4RUNNER 2010+:

2010+ 4Runners carrying approx 400lbs+ of extra weight at all times, provides approximately 3" lift when loaded

Toyota Tacoma Old Man Emu Coil Spring, Stock/Light Load Spring (0-110lbs) 1.75" Lift OME2885

2010+ 4Runner 4WD (stock with 70-180lbs bull-bar and winch) - Approximately 3" Lift
 
There are MANY other OME spring options other than these. Look at wheelersoffroad and look at all the OME springs for front/rear. Tehy list specs specific to 5th gen 4runner. with those springs you want and no weight you will be bouncing all over the place. they are basically meant for rigs with steel bumpers, winches and full gear in the back.

Old Man Emu 4RUNNER Heavy Load Coil Springs, 440 lbs Constant Load (2898)

from their specs tab:
4RUNNER 2010+:

2010+ 4Runners carrying approx 400lbs+ of extra weight at all times, provides approximately 3" lift when loaded

Toyota Tacoma Old Man Emu Coil Spring, Stock/Light Load Spring (0-110lbs) 1.75" Lift OME2885

2010+ 4Runner 4WD (stock with 70-180lbs bull-bar and winch) - Approximately 3" Lift

Super helpful - thank you! Looking at Wheeler's it looks like I should go with 2884 in front and .....2889s in the back? That sound right?
 
So, probably a dumb question but any need for extended bumpstops with this setup?

I mean the front shocks start out extended due to the longer coils so you lose droop just like you would with a stock coil and setting the 5100 for lift...but what about compression? What is going to be the limiting factor for upward travel of the tire?

Asking because I am looking at a similar arrangement down the road (I'm in line for an ORP but expecting it to be a couple months before I get one...)
 
XREAS is easy to remove. Much easier if you use cutters and junk it rather than trying to use flare nuts on rusty boosters.. its a pain. The hard lines once cut pop off easy.

Use rags and a bucket, the mess is minimal. Chop chop chop... its done.

I removed mine and went with Kings
 
XREAS is easy to remove. Much easier if you use cutters and junk it rather than trying to use flare nuts on rusty boosters.. its a pain. The hard lines once cut pop off easy.

Use rags and a bucket, the mess is minimal. Chop chop chop... its done.

I removed mine and went with Kings

That looks great! Happen to remember the lift kit specs so I can compare?

Honestly I'm going to have someone who has the right equipment install the lift, so I'll save my manicure and just have them handle the XREAS at the same time. :D
 
So, probably a dumb question but any need for extended bumpstops with this setup?

I mean the front shocks start out extended due to the longer coils so you lose droop just like you would with a stock coil and setting the 5100 for lift...but what about compression? What is going to be the limiting factor for upward travel of the tire?

Asking because I am looking at a similar arrangement down the road (I'm in line for an ORP but expecting it to be a couple months before I get one...)

Not a dumb question at all. I was going to skip bump stops altogether since I'm not doing any real off-roading, but you could lose a small child in some of the potholes around here... Maybe I should, but probably still wont.

The kit I'm looking at also has an option for extended brake lines... not really sure why I'd need that one either.
 
That looks great! Happen to remember the lift kit specs so I can compare?

Honestly I'm going to have someone who has the right equipment install the lift, so I'll save my manicure and just have them handle the XREAS at the same time. :D

Its a full set of king coilovers with remotes. Rears I kept OEM springs. Front are KINGs at 550. Its a good setup. Ive been much happier with it than XREAS..on the road and off the road.
 
I have 2016 limited with a modified 6" fab tech lift. I've done many modifications 488:1 Front rear axle gear ratio with ARB airlockers. Running dirt logic 2.5 shocks front and rear. Fantastic shocks ride amazing.

Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
XREAS is easy to remove. Much easier if you use cutters and junk it rather than trying to use flare nuts on rusty boosters.. its a pain. The hard lines once cut pop off easy.

Use rags and a bucket, the mess is minimal. Chop chop chop... its done.

I removed mine and went with Kings

How are you enjoying your Kings/how do they compare to the ride before you swapped them out?
 
How are you enjoying your Kings/how do they compare to the ride before you swapped them out?

No comparison. I found XREAS ok on very smooth highway. Very jarring and brittle on any roads even with expansion strips. You can adjust the kings compression from ultra soft 1970s Cadillac to firm but not overtly harsh. Basically they transformed the bus from a wallowing pig to a more composed vehicle. They are better at speed, better off road, more comfortable, track better on road. Ive had many coilovers over the years on various cars, most can be harsh or heavy due to high spring rates, the kings are very nice. I recommend them alot and am very satisfied with them. Only negative I have found is the rear shocks have a galvanized type shock body that is not very corrosion resistant if you live in a place with lots of salt in winter. Otherwise we good herE!!!

But some you will like them!!!!
 
Eibach ProTruck is the Answer

I have 2019 ORP, and daily drive it with similar use criteria as the OP.

I can’t recommend the Eibach lift highly enough. I used the factory springs on the top perch to get 2.5” of lift in the fron and use the Eibach springs in the back for a 1” lift there. You should be able to get the whole kit or piecemeal for less than a grand and have plenty left for the install with a $1,700 budget. You will need to find an alignment shop that deals with lifted vehicles as the “factory” alignment specs don’t work with a lifted truck. My shop couldn’t get enough castor to get 3 degrees with the factory UCA’s, but it doesn’t feel unstable at highway speeds either. Many folks report good castor though, so YMMV.

It sits almost level with a very slight forward rake.

It sags to level when fully loaded for a San Diego beach trip.

It soaks up speed humps way better than the factory suspension.

As many report, it drives more truck-like, but in a good way.

It has less nosedive under braking.
 
I have 2019 ORP, and daily drive it with similar use criteria as the OP.

I can’t recommend the Eibach lift highly enough. I used the factory springs on the top perch to get 2.5” of lift in the fron and use the Eibach springs in the back for a 1” lift there. You should be able to get the whole kit or piecemeal for less than a grand and have plenty left for the install with a $1,700 budget. You will need to find an alignment shop that deals with lifted vehicles as the “factory” alignment specs don’t work with a lifted truck. My shop couldn’t get enough castor to get 3 degrees with the factory UCA’s, but it doesn’t feel unstable at highway speeds either. Many folks report good castor though, so YMMV.

It sits almost level with a very slight forward rake.

It sags to level when fully loaded for a San Diego beach trip.

It soaks up speed humps way better than the factory suspension.

As many report, it drives more truck-like, but in a good way.

It has less nosedive under braking.

I've looked at this too but I want to maintain the factory rake so....
 
So, probably a dumb question but any need for extended bumpstops with this setup?

I mean the front shocks start out extended due to the longer coils so you lose droop just like you would with a stock coil and setting the 5100 for lift...but what about compression? What is going to be the limiting factor for upward travel of the tire?

Asking because I am looking at a similar arrangement down the road (I'm in line for an ORP but expecting it to be a couple months before I get one...)

If you plan to wheel then extended bump stops are a good idea, but still not necessary. For general driving or gravel roads, it's not necessary at all.
I'm running Timbren bump stops front and rear on my lifted 5th gen and it made an improvement when hitting large potholes or sudden bumps offroad, but certainly weren't necessary.
 
Super helpful - thank you! Looking at Wheeler's it looks like I should go with 2884 in front and .....2889s in the back? That sound right?

I have a lifted TRD Offroad with OME Nitrocharger shocks and OME Medium Springs front/rear. When I'm running around unloaded, meaning no RTT, no rear drawers and no camping gear, it rides rough. The Medium springs are meant to always have added weight on them.

Your otherwise stock Limited would ride nicely on OME stock capacity springs (2884 Front/2889 Rear). You likely won't feel much difference between Bilstein, OME, Etc shocks for your daily driving so buy what fits your budget.

Are you planning to run oversize tires on 17" wheels or factory 265/70R17? If you're plan is to run factory size, that lift will look a little weird.

I'm running LT285/70R17 on the same lift and it almost looks small compared to some. Offset also makes a big difference.
 
The kit I'm looking at also has an option for extended brake lines... not really sure why I'd need that one either.

Given what you say in your original post regarding usage, you definitely won't be needing extended brake lines. They only come into play if you plan to have your suspension fully drooped out over obstacles on a frequent basis. I off road pretty often and still don't even have extended brake lines myself.

Also... i need to learn to use multi quote replys. haha
 

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