Had to Tap & Die a Skid Plate Bolt

Bluto

Bluto

New member
My first oil change I had a skid plate bolt back out in bad shape. I was able to get it back in. But I was not happy with it.

I just did my 2nd oil change. I picked up a metric tap and die set from Sears, and some tapping oil. I think the bolt was a 9mm X 1.25. The nut in the frame as 8mm X 1.25. Everything cleaned up fine. But I think my skid plate is slightly misaligned. The bolt that was stripped needs to be first out, first in, or things don't line up. I think the alignment caused the damage the first time (or it was cross threaded at the factory).
 
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three of the factory bolts on my skid plate have snapped off, been stripped, etc. one side is now held on by zip ties.

:eek:

some of the bolts are still in there, stuck forever in the cross member with a hole in the middle of the shaft from trying to drill it out ... !
 
What???

You guys still have to remove the skid plate to change the oil on the V8?

Why didn't they include the cutout and plastic insert like the V6? It makes oil changes a snap.
 
Hitman said:
What???

You guys still have to remove the skid plate to change the oil on the V8?

Why didn't they include the cutout and plastic insert like the V6? It makes oil changes a snap.
Click to expand...

With the V8, the skid plate has to be removed to get to the filter.
 
Ouch, that sucks! The V6 is a snap with the pop-out piece on the skid plate. I knew I made the right choice!

:D
CV
 
djlandkpl said:
With the V8, the skid plate has to be removed to get to the filter.
Click to expand...

Um, yeah... I kind of figured that after reading this first post of this thread.

My question is why Toyota decided against making an access hole on the skidplate of the V8??
 
There is an oval removable cover for draining the oil on the v8, in the rear skid-plate. My cover blew off and is on some HWY in NJ. However, to remove the oil filter, one has to remove the front skid-plate.
 
greasefingers said:
However, to remove the oil filter, one has to remove the front skid-plate.
Click to expand...


Bingo.


I know there is oil in my filter when I start my truck.

How about you V6 owners? ;):
 
Bluto
I think I get what you are saying: one could pour and fill the filter up, to the top, at least two times. It will absorb all of the oil so at start-up there is no lag filling the filter. I do this even though my filter is positioned in a better orientation (than the being upside down like the v6)
 
greasefingers said:
Bluto
I think I get what you are saying: one could pour and fill the filter up, to the top, at least two times. It will absorb all of the oil so at start-up there is no lag filling the filter. I do this even though my filter is positioned in a better orientation (than the being upside down like the v6)
Click to expand...


An upside down filter depends on an anti-drain valve to keep oil in the filter when the engine is not running.

If you don't have it, or it does not work, your oil pump has to fill the oil filter before your engine gets oil. Not just an oil change problem, but every day.
 
Just take a minute to think about the quality of the seal made by the anti-drainback bit of rubber. Hot thin oil being held inside an upside down steel cup? I don't think it even sounds like it might work. Drip, drip, drip and the filter is empty in a few minutes.

Yes, the V8 filter is a PITA to get to, but it is always full of oil. I start the engine and I get oil pressure in an instant.

When you change the oil, do you notice how ling it takes for the oil light to shut off? How about that amount of time each and every time you start the engine.

Every oil filter I have on my many motorcycles are either right side up, or submerged. On my KTM & BMW I fill the filter before screwing it onto the threads. That is the best way to do it. Too bad I can't on the V8.

The other thing I do is use a longer oil filter in the 4Runner. The anti-sway bar prevents a wider filter.
 
RL Lemke said:
Just take a minute to think about the quality of the seal made by the anti-drainback bit of rubber. Hot thin oil being held inside an upside down steel cup? I don't think it even sounds like it might work. Drip, drip, drip and the filter is empty in a few minutes.

Yes, the V8 filter is a PITA to get to, but it is always full of oil. I start the engine and I get oil pressure in an instant.

When you change the oil, do you notice how ling it takes for the oil light to shut off? How about that amount of time each and every time you start the engine.

Every oil filter I have on my many motorcycles are either right side up, or submerged. On my KTM & BMW I fill the filter before screwing it onto the threads. That is the best way to do it. Too bad I can't on the V8.

The other thing I do is use a longer oil filter in the 4Runner. The anti-sway bar prevents a wider filter.
Click to expand...

How about the V6 owners running a larger filter? If it is empty, it takes even longer to fill with oil. :eek:

Maybe there needs to be another thread on the topic. :D
 
When I change my oil, my oil light goes off instantly. I don't think that there is any difference (due to the technology) in having an upside down filter for a system. The geniuses at Toyota aren't going to make something that doesn't work. The way the oil filter is set up in the V6 is pure bliss. I hook up a small neoprene tube from the valve in my oil filter collecting tray down to my oil bucket and it is a snap. Best darn design ever from toyota for ease of use.

My wife's Jeep is upside down too.

My father has a 2001 Tacoma and he nothing but complains that he has to remove the skid plate to get to the filter too.

CV
 
I expected someone to post the theory that the sealed nature of the upside down filter on the V6 motor would cause a vacuum. This vacuum would hold the oil inside the filter. That the rubber anti-drainback seal inside the filter limited the surface area available to disturb the vacuum effect.

I also expected someone to suggest that Toyota included a oneway check valve. This I would dismiss because of the damage that could occur should such a valve malfunctioned.

From my thinking on the issue, I think that the siphon effect of the oil draining back into the oilpan would suck any oil in the filter past any rubber seal.

Anyway, back to the topic which started the thread. I have in my garage a replacement skidplate. The one Good Times had sitting his garage. I am working on a way to attach it to the front of the 4Runner, which limits the effects of a few rock scrapes on the bolt hole alignment. I'll get around to this once I get the new struts and upper A arms installed. All the parts are in, I just need for there to be a bit of quiet time here at work.
 
Hmmm... you guys bring up an interesting point, but the orientation of the oil filter really doesn't matter.

First of all, anti-drain valves do work. I'm sure it's possible that they can fail, but it doesn't really matter that much because the ENTIRE lubrication system has to be pressurized before your engine is "safe" from metal to metal contact. Even with an oil filter full of oil, it still takes some time for the system to pump oil throughout because of the bleed down since the engine was last running. In other words, the engine is more or less relying on the film of oil that is clinging from the last time it was running.

That's why an engine sounds so rough if you start it after letting it sit for a week. Most of the oil film has dripped of various engine parts and it is truly running dry for a few seconds until the lubrication system can pressurize the system and pump the oil to all parts of the engine.

I used to fill my oil filter with fresh oil before spinning it on, but it doesn't really make a difference, simply because the engine was running right before I shut it off for an oil change, and the oil is well-circulated throughout the engine. When I'm finished with my oil change, I start the engine again and it pressurizes immediately.
 
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