hammered drums; now axle seals keep breaking

stephenfry

New member
here is a synopsis so you don't have to read the full story below:

MY AXLE SEALS KEEP ON BREAKING ON BOTH SIDES RIGHT AFTER A TECHNICIAN SLAMMED BOTH DRUMS WITH A LARGE HAMMER FIFTEEN TIMES. ALSO EXPERIENCING RIDE QUALITY/SMOOTHNESS/FRICTION ISSUES/A LITTLE NOISE FROM BACK WHEELS SINCE HE DID THE BRAKE INSPECTION. I'M HOPING THE RIDE QUALITY/ACCELERATION/SMOOTHNESS ISSUES ARE JUST RELATED TO SOMETHING SMALL LIKE HE DIDN'T TIGHTEN THE LUGNUTS OR PUSH THE DRUMS ALL THE WAY IN, BUT I DOUBT STUFF LIKE THAT WOULD REPEATEDLY BREAK THE AXLE SEALS.




here is the full story with the symptoms. this is a cut and paste of an email i sent about it to someone.thanks for the response. i am going to try to touch all my bases and go to tOyota to have them check to see if the breather valve should be replaced cause if it is clogged causing the axle seals to break every 3k miles, and then i'll have them check the brakes in back to make sure they are not adjusted wrong making the car break all the time causing overheating of the brakes which breaks the seals too. any advice you can give would be appreciated. i could see how "tapping" the drums wouldn't cause anything. but this guy may have been using a metal hammer too and he cocked his arm back two feet or so and slammed on the drums like fifteen times,so i wonder if he damaged the axle or bent it or damaged the axle housing or the drums causing the seals to break three times in 5k miles?
here is the full story:
i bought the car from a reputable dealer in 2012. the dealer thoroughly inspected it and it had no accidents and original paint and no mechanical problems and it test drove like a dream. when it drove when i first bought it it drove smooth and without wheel friction or drag and very fast acceleration and probably very good gas mileage. the same day after i bought it i took it to pepboys and used a rewards card for a free brake inspection.
i stood in the store and watched as dante operated on the car. he took off the back wheels and then grabbed a hammer and struck each drum on each side very forcefully about fifteen times. right away i knew that was giong to be a problem. i sold acuras for three years andknow alot about cars and i know that the toyota service manual says there is only one factory authorized way to remove the drums if they are hard to take off by hand. dante cocked his arm back about two feet and very forcefully repeatedly struck the drums with the hammer. this was no mere "Tapping" of the drums. it is important to note that when i bought the car the axle seals were not leaking and the car was thoroughly inspected and service or "reconditioned" by the dealer. if the seals were leakingiwould have seen axle grease covering the alloy wheels making them black with gear oil/grease but the wheels were clean. dante todlme that the car was in perfect condition and had plenty of brake pad "meat" on both the rear and front brakes. later i learned from multiple sources that it is absolutely wrong to ever hammer the drums to get them apart. most of the time they simply lift off by hand, but if they are hard to get apart, a mechanic told me the factory toyota 4 runner service manual says there is only one proper way to remove the drum to inspect the shoes. that is that you put two screws or bolts into the holes that are on teh drum and you screw the bolts inwardly and then drums slides right out. the screws teh further you press them in, presses agaisnt the steel plate behind teh drum and as you screw them inward it forces teh seperation of the drums from teh steel plate behind teh drum which rotates the wheels. i also went to my local and told them what they did and they told me there was noneed to hammer teh drums because you just press the two screws in and the drum comes right off without having to damage the axles or bend the axles or mess up the placement of the gears in the rear differential pumpkin by hammerring the drums. and a mechanic of sorts online toldme about the facoty r authorized method of taking the drums off. dante probably had no idea what he was diong or didn't see the holes for teh screws. a mechanic online told me that the repeated for4cefulhammering of the brake dums probably caused the axle seals to break repeatedly by damaging either teh brakes or some other component. so mulitple mechanics have told me along with the factory service manual that what he did hammering the brakes was wrong.
so back to the story. i asked teh tech why he hammerred the drums so hard and he said he didn't know how to get the drums apart other than that way. so he didn't know about the screws. so i took teh car home and immediately upon leaving i noticed the car didn't drive teh same. the car drove with less acceleration oand the ride was noisy from teh back wheels and not smooth but seemed like there was some type of grinding in teh wheels or something. the gas mileage was probably affected too. then later on i noticed that the rear right passenger side alloy wheel was completely covered in axle grease. itook it to a mechanic and he said both axle seals were broken. he said the right one was leaking profusely and was completely busted while the left was broken and only leaking but a less rapid leak than the right one. he told me it had to be fixed or else the axle would soon run out of grease or oil and as soon as that happens the gears in teh differential or "pumkin" have no lubrication and it will total the car by stripping or ruining the gears in teh rear differential making the car totalled or undriveable. so i had it repaired. i always knew/suspected from teh moment he forcefully struck the car with a hammer fifteen times that the car had been damaged because it drove horribly, but i didn't know what to do about it. nevertheless i fixed the axle seal. then i drive the car for about 5 thousand miles, and i took it into carson toyota service department for a routine brake job on teh front pads and for a oil change and complete 5 thousand mile service. richard teh service advisor called me and told me that after inspecting the vehicle teh technician had noticed that both axle seals were again broken. when the axle seals break you have to completely replace the inner and outer seals along wihtputtingnew bearings, hubs, brake shoes and everyting because teh shoes are so contaminated with oil that is causes problems. the cost to replace the axleseals is 1000.00$ and the cost to replace the shoes, drums, bearings and hubs along wiht it is another rougly 1000.00$ acording to even pepboys it is rare that a axle seal ever needs to be repaled but when it does it usually happens about every ten years or hundred thousands miles or so. it rarely ever needs to be replaced because of breakage.

so basically after taking the car to them for a routine brake inspection and the damage done to the axle shaft. axles,axle housings,brakes,drums i have seen teh axle seals repeatedly break over and over. they have broken three times in just five thousand miles. and it is a 2000 $ job to replace them each time. the car dives horribly after teh hammering too. the acceleration is slower and teh gas milegae is or seems to be worse because there seems to be some drag or friction in teh rear wheels or axles. the axles may have been bent during the hammering or the axle housing may have been damaged. and the poor driving experience may be caused by the gears in the differential being slightly damaged. nevertheless the car went from being a perfect car worth thirteen thousand dollars to being a lemon car with axle seals that constatnly break right after being replaced costing thousands to fix it each time. the car can only be sold with teh disclosure that is is a lemon car and has damage done the the rear drivetrain and brakes and anyone test driving it could see it drives poorly wiht noise and friction in teh rear wheels. from my experience selling cars even with the extremeley low mileage of 95,000 miles, it could probably be sold now for maybe 4 thousand dollars. i bought teh car with 89,955 thousand miles on it, and i rarely drive it and when i do it's only for short trips so i put barely any miles on it. these 4runners are hard to find for purchase and if it were in teh condition i bought it in undamage it would probably be worth 11000 dollars because i have only put 5000 miles on it since buying it for the retail blue book for about 13000 $. pepboys turned this once perfect car into a lemon and lost me about seven thousand dollars in value. (11,000-4,000) the average price for a 4rfunner for sale on autotrader is about 10,000 but those have higher miles on them. teh average person drives 12k per year so a 2001 average car would have about 168,000 miles on it. it must be pointed out that this car when i bought was the best of teh best-cherry complete with service records and well maintained, and a clean title and clean carfax report with original pain all around meaning the car had never been repainted because of an accident. i have spent probably 300 dollars more in gas than i would have had teh aceleration and gas mileage not been affected by the inspection. i have had to drive teh car that is uncomfortable to drive with noise and friction and grinding and teh car that was once a joy and fun to drive is now chore to drive. if i keep the car history shows that about every three thousand miles the axle seals and bearing and hubs and drums and brakes will need to be replaced costing 2000 dollars each time. so if i keep it and drive it 100,000 more miles it would cost tens of thousands of dollars to repair and keep up without stripping the differential gears from lack of lubrication. i am not asking for tens of thousands of dollars. i don't know how anyone would ever buy this car from me though. i would have to disclose it is now damaged and has problems and currently needs repairs and will need more to be driven. my curernt advisor and mechanic said i shouldn't even be driving it until it is repaired at toyota.
 
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This provided the lols. Basically guy wants $10 grand because he thinks pep boys damaged his axle seals. I think.
 
Just reading the last sentence make you sound stupid op. 10k for a 7k truck when to get a new rear axle would be about a grand. No offense but you aren't going to win any of us over i don't think
 
What, I thought we were in the trust tree in the nest, were we not?
-old school, (will ferell)
i thought we were all "toyota brothers" here? are we not?
if this tech didn't ruin my car by hammering it, what should i do to fix the car. it was weird though cause RIGHT after the hammering the axle seals busted and started swewing oil all over the alloys. it seems wierd that the seals bothbusted RIHGT after this hammering. how could thebreather get clogged right after he hamerred it? i just hate the idea of anyone hamering by beloved car if they don't absolutely have to. and it says in teh toytoa service manual to get the drums off wiht the two screws.
 
"why you gotta be so rude? dont' you know i'm human too?"
-MAGIC
a new AXLE about grand? you meant a new axle SEAL right? true both seals are 900. but the toyota dealer said they advise replacing both bearing hubs, brake shoes, drums (for contamination) and that's another 1k for that. so it's 2k each time they break. and this is th ethird time they have broken in only 5k miles. i thought seals went out on average once every 100k or never?
 
OP. I cannot believe this happened to you twice...... Or is this just a repost of the same incident?

I tried to read your entire post to see if I may be if any help, but my face was in my palm too much to catch all the words in your run-on sentence

Quit passing the buck about how much you know because someone told you. Hammering on the drums (wrong as it is) will not bend your axle, it can contribute to making the seals leak, but don't try to get on a 4runner forum and claim you lost acceleration, feel friction, and lost MPG all based on one day of ownership. When these seals get replaced, there is an issue with the new seals not seating in the right spot, and you can put 100 new seals in and they will all leak. There are step by step write ups on this seal issue and if done correctly one time, it will quit leaking. I won't take the time to explain it all to you, but basically the original seal from japan fit, the newly manufactured seals (even from Toyota) do not sit in far enough to make a good seal, so some modifications must be made to correct the leak.

I know you said you sold Acura for a while so you some how know cars, but a blown diff or destroyed axle is not a "totaled vehicle".

Words of advise...
#1 Stop being "that guy".
#2 If you are paying $2k for brakes, bearings and seals that often, learn to do it yourself for about $300 a pop. By your math it will save you tens of thousands of dollars.
#3 its hard to take you serious with you exaggerated math and lack of common sense. If it's really such a chore to drive and they have stolen the joy from your 4runner.... Cough up the $900 to get an entire new axle assembly and move along.
#4 use the search function and you will see there are dozens of folks that have issues with their rear seals leaking, and entire threads on fixing the problem. Side note, it's not a problem that PepBoys created, they perhaps compounded it.
#5 it is people who think like you that make every shop on earth tired of customers, and thus treat them like apes and over charge.
#6 run a 3000 word essay through spell check once or twice...if the above is a copy and past of what you sent to PepBoys, I'm sure they thought it was written by someone with a 3rd grade education and in turn they did not take you as serious as you would have liked. I make spelling and grammar blunders all the time (especially when typing on my phone) but when you are trying to get some resolve on a precessional level, it helps to not sound utterly dim.

Sorry for being such a dik, but since I have met you before (or someone an awful lot like you) I assumed even being direct and blunt, you will fail to understand the vastness of your ignorance.....but for the sake of automotive repair shops the world over, I tried.
 
I truly tried to read it, but my eyes starting going cross-eyed.

Paragraphs are your friend.

Whatever your problem is, good luck with it.
 
ok thanks for the response. good info. something tells me that if seals and brakes at toyota cost 2k, tehn replacing the whole rear end of a vehicles powertrain is going to cost ten times that. or maybe the advisor is gougin me. you aer telling me toyota sells new axles, axles and differntials and housings? i may be walking into one here, but the shuttle driver told me if the axle fluid runs out then the gears in the differential are ruined and i would have to find a new rear end from a junkyard vehicle and find a good rear end. but maybe he is just a shuttle driver for saying things like that. maybe toyota does sell new diferentials and axles. but i view any work on my car like dental work. you don't get a bunch of root canals and crowns without a lot of hesitation. in my view, the more the factory original parts are messed with and replaced, the more f-ed up the car will be. in my view, a new diferential and axles could never be the same as the one teh factory made for teh car. anywa i'm going to call toyota tomorow and see if the tech bothered to check to see if the breather valve was clogged. who knew a bunch of "wrenches" could be so picky about grammar and syntax? jeeeeees. sorry for being a dik by calling you all "wrenches", it's just what the salespeople call the techs
 
also you said hammering the drums is wrong. as you saw you are contradicting everyone else who "responded" to my thread. i agree with you, i say if hammering is not needed and the screws will do it, then go with the screws like the factory tells you to.
 
i'm sorry, i didn't know i logged onto ihaveastickupmyass.com, the web's leading website to browbeat someone over typos and NITPICK over INCONSEQUENTIAL CRAP. i thought people came on this site to talk about mechanical issues with their cars. i got the wrong site! everything wrote is INTELLIGIBLE, no matter if there are a few typos or "run on sentences". the picture of what is going on with my car is CLEAR and communicated in an understandable manner. and what is an OP?
 
OP is original poster, the person who owns this thread, in this case it's you.

If you think replacing a rear axle will change anything about the way the vehicle drives or it won't be the same you are nuts. Never change brakes, tires, water pump, timing belt,spark plugs, drive belt, belt tensioner, calipers, oil, or anything else so it always have the factory stuff on it and drives like new. Putting in an axle out of a salvage yard will change nothing. In fact, you have no way of knowing if the axle is the one that came with it anyway.

I am walking away from this thread, because you are either REALLY way out there mentally or a Troll, and either way you cannot be helped.

In the event you are not just messing with people on here with this doozie of a thread, please find the real solution to your problem here.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html

Like I said before, nothing is wrong with your axle, nothing is wrong with the grocery bagger at Walgreens that you get advise from. Bottom line, new seals don't work in old axles without some extra care and modification sometimes.
 
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Can I say wow! Stephen, you need to step back and look at your problem realistically. I had to reread (yes I reread the post, I'm a glutton for punishment) to see that your 4runner is a 2001? Limited? SR5? I bought my 2000 limited with 150000 for $5800. Now it wasn't "cherry" but $13000 is way overvaluing your truck. With that being said, There's NO WAY the tech bent your axle unless he was beating it with a 20 lb sledgehammer and even then I would doubt it. I've seen techs hit drums to loosen them up, to break the "seal" that occurs on the hub. Makes a really loud ringing sound, but "realistically" don't you think the drum would have cracked or some lugs would have broken? That axle is probably about an inch thick forged steel. The drum is at it's thickest spot maybe a 1/4 " thick. The force that tech put on your brake drums is nothing compared to the forces of the truck's weight over 100000 miles.

What your paying for all this work is way too much. $1000 for rear brakes, drums on top of $1000 for the rear axle job with bearings (which is about right) is way, way too much. Are they replacing your bearings every time? If so why?? Of course, no one would just keep spending this amount of money every couple thousand miles as you alluded to. That is just plain stupid.

You speak of the drivability being diminished by friction or drag. Simply putting the truck on the rack and spinning the axles should find any drag. There should be some sort of abnormal noise or run out if something is bent. The problem should be in the rear so that eliminates any front hub bearings, caliper drag etc. Any competent mechanic should be able to fix your vehicle right the 1st time.

Why would you drive the vehicle knowing you have a rear oil leak and either not fixing the leak or at the very least refilling the differential? Any damage incurred at this point is on you not the PB mechanic you say ruined your truck.

Drivability is definitely affected when that oil gets on the drums. I believe this is what you're experiencing. I had the same problem. The rear seals was the 1st repair I performed on my truck when I got it 3 months ago. In the end, I replaced the seals, bearings ( and some of the other things that need to be replaced to do the job right) differential breather (mine was open not closed) brake shoes and drums. Rides great now (after replacing a sticking front caliper) and not a drip of gear oil on my ABS exciter ring.

I feel bad for your problems. I feel bad for anyone that has to take their vehicle to the shop and rely on someone else's expertise which can always be in question. It's so hard to find a competent mechanic, but this is exactly what you have to do unless you want to learn how to fix this stuff yourself. It's your call, but I can tell you this, you wont get a dollar from Pep boys, if that's what you're aiming for. Good luck!
 
I've only met two mechanics in my entire life that I fully trust, which is why I do 90% of the maintenance on my family's vehicles. If the prices you're quoting are accurate, the first thing you should do is dump your mechanic. The dealership is a rip-off. Find a reputable shop that specializes in Toyota vehicles. They no doubt will have done dozens of jobs just like this on 4runners and Tacomas.

Second thing you should do is search this forum for axle seal replacement and figure out what you're actually up against rather than speculating at what needs to be done and how much it might cost. In fact, I would recommend refraining from starting any new threads (or even posting in this one) until you have read through at least 10 axle seal replacement threads and 5 drum replacement threads. If you have any questions after that, be sure to use paragraphs, punctuation and capitalization in your post. I'm not being a dick, I'm just telling you that 90% of the people on this thread who would normally be happy to help are not going to be able to give you any advice if they can't tell what the heck you're saying.

And finally, I know you have an immediate problem with your 4runner that needs to get fixed quick, but in the future, I would totally recommend buying some tools and learning how to do this stuff yourself. It's not hard, and you'll save a ton of money. Research, research, research :)

P.S. I use a hammer all the time. Sometimes the BIG one :o
 
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dude seriously .....

post a quick summary of your question in BOLD and separate from the wall of text.


BTW Hamming on your drums does not cause axle seal leakage.

Wear and tear (eg 75-125K miles) of usage on your rear wheel bearings and inner seals causes the leakage.
 
it is important to note that when i bought the car the axle seals were not leaking and the car was thoroughly inspected and service or "reconditioned" by the dealer. if the seals were leakingiwould have seen axle grease covering the alloy wheels making them black wiht oil/grease but the wheels were clean. dante todlme that the car was in perfect condition and had plenty of brake pad "meat" onboth teh rear and front brakes.


What could have happened is that before selling the car, the seals might have been leaking and dealer who sold it might have just done the "quick repair" and cleaned out the drums, replaced the innner seals without pressing on new bearing and called it a day. That way the buyer wouldn't notice the leaking for many months to a year. Don't assume used car dealers are honest. I've met plenty of SHADY used car salesman / salesplaces including dealerships.
 

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