I took one of mine apart recently to "un-seize" it. First off, it isn't too difficult as long as you remember the order you did things in and don't lose anything in the process.
I used a socket wrench with an extension, a box end wrench, some vice-grips and needle nose pliers.
To get the bell crank off, you must disconnect it from the e-brake cable. Remove the cotter pin and then the clevis pin that connects the actuator to the cable. You will have to disconnect the two springs as well.
Next, open up the drum.
Disconnect the cable that attaches to the bell crank arm, underneath the hub (blue arrow).
Then you need to remove the two bell crank mounting bolts located on the inside of the drum (green arrow). You can see them where the arm of the bell crank sticks through the drum. One bolt can be reached straight away with a socket.
The other one is slightly behind the right brake shoe. Some have been able to just pull the shoe outwards far enough to get on it. I had to pull the shoe towards me to get in behind it with a wrench.
To do that, I just removed the small pin and hold retaining/hold down spring located in the middle of the shoe (red arrow). I am not sure what it is actually called. Anyway, the pin just rotates 90 degrees to allow it to slide through the cap at the end of the spring. I used the vice grips to compress the spring a bit and the needle nose pliers to grab the pin and rotate it.
With that removed, I was able to hold the left shoe in place (I think I used a screw driver and braced it on the hub to pin the left shoe) and pull the right shoe over enough to pop the top out in front of the cylinder. Then I could just pull the shoe towards me to make room for the wrench. I left the rest of it in tact.
To put it all back, do the reverse. It took me about 10 minutes to do it all once I figured out what needed doing. I hope that wasn't terribly confusing (my brain is probably only running on a couple of cylinders right now. Too tired).
