Hard Closing Lift Gate

Kyngfish

New member
Ran a quick search and didn't see this. My rear lift gate takes a pretty big slam to close, it doesn't LOOK misaligned, but there's a small ding in the rear panel that says it's been hit slightly, so maybe it's slightly off - and by ding I mean quarter-sized dent.

Symptoms are basically that I don't feel any real spring in the latch, like the spring is weak when I pull the handle to disengage, or something is too close or too tight so it's not moving enough to feel like there's a lot of mechanical action, and sometimes I will close the rear lift gate, and it will look closed, but the rear dome light is still on - and I'll have to open and slam it shut.

But basically I want to see if I can repair or replace whatever it is that causes the gate to be such a pain in the ass to close and I'm wondering where to start.

Should I take apart and clean the latch? Is there something else I'm missing or has anyone else experienced this?
 
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You can get the latch mechanism out but it doesn't come apart.
Have you tried blasting up into the latch mech with some kind of lubricant?
 
Take a look at the plastic bumpers on the bottom sides that interface with the rubber bushings on the body. There's one on each side. If the gate is deformed on of these could be pressing too firmly when closing.

You could try unbolting the plastic bumpers (just a 10mm socket, easy) one at a time and see if it helps. If it does, you can shave down the bumpers a bit on a sander to compensate for the misfit.

You can also put a bit of silicone grease on the rubber bumpers to help the plastic bumper slide on it better and reduce friction.
 
I put a couple thin washers under the latch(part by bumper) to raise it up a bit then it would catch without having to slam it.
 
It's the latch, mines been like that for at least 3 years, it's a bit annoying, but not $100 annoying. Although I should get one soon, before it gets discontinued.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the pointers folks. I may spring for a new latch. It's annoying, and sometimes the door refuses to open. Rather nip it in the bud.
 
If it's just a bit tweaked and the strike plate is just a bit off, hit it with a nice big hammer and get it lined up again. You could also try and remove the screws and see if it'll budge a smidge forwards or whatever direction is needed.

Basically play with it to see if you can get it right before having to spend anything.
 
If you're talking about the bottom latch it's called the "striker". Look on e-bay or a part out. I paid $25 for a rust free used one & put a couple coats of paint on it so it wouldn't rust again. I think the dealer wanted $85 for new. But I like the idea mentioned above to loosen/adjust with washers.
 
Mine was hard to open and sometimes felt like the latch is about to break when I'm squeezing it, but if you press down on the door it was easier to open. Too much grabbing from the latch to the striker despite being greased.
 

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