Hard to find Specs, Info & Measurements on 231mm 13WL Tundra Calipers & Rotors
- Thread starter BigFishAllDay
- Start date
BigFishAllDay
New member
Don't hold your breath.
If you dont like my input, ignore it. What other threads do you have here?
I figured you for that type. I won't ignore you though.. I'll continue to point out your ignorance each and every time you put it on display. Hopefully I can prevent some people from taking your posts too seriously.. you just spread that misinformation around like a disease.
Do a search for my threads, I'm sure that's simple enough for you to figure out.
I did a write-up on transmission coolers. Why don't you go over there and pump some more of your BS about how people will destroy their transmissions if they don't go inline w/the in-radiator cooler.
BrianSD_42
New member
Why would Toyota or NAPA or anyone produce new warped rotors? That doesn't make any sense - at all.
Just think about it a second, new rotors are made in the factory with a machine that "turns them" to ensure they are TRUE before shipping them out.
Why would you need to turn them again?
BigFishAllDay
New member
BrianSD_42
New member
sorry. LOL.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Drcoffee
Senior Member
For the record
I just finished up my Tundra brake Mod and rather than risk doing the job twice, I took the BRAND NEW Wagner rotors to Carquest to get them turned. I didn't say anything to them when I dropped them off but when I picked them up, the man behind the counter said that one of them was not true. Enough so that he felt it needed to be turned. Believe what you want, but just because you bought it new, doesn't mean its going to be trouble free out of the box. If you have a brake shake with new rotors, consider having them turned on a lathe. BFD, if you want the parts store name and ph number to confirm my story, PM me and I'll be happy to give it to you.
You can live in the theoretical, I've learned my techniques from experience.
:cheers:
I just finished up my Tundra brake Mod and rather than risk doing the job twice, I took the BRAND NEW Wagner rotors to Carquest to get them turned. I didn't say anything to them when I dropped them off but when I picked them up, the man behind the counter said that one of them was not true. Enough so that he felt it needed to be turned. Believe what you want, but just because you bought it new, doesn't mean its going to be trouble free out of the box. If you have a brake shake with new rotors, consider having them turned on a lathe. BFD, if you want the parts store name and ph number to confirm my story, PM me and I'll be happy to give it to you.
You can live in the theoretical, I've learned my techniques from experience.
:cheers:
Brilliant
New member
Wouldnt it be cheaper and quicker to just buy a better brand of rotor?
BigFishAllDay
New member
Take rotors to get turned, don't say anything? Is that possible? Don't you have to at least say: "Hi, I'd like to get these rotors turned?"
Parts counter guy (who MUST know what he's talking about, because he's a chain store parts counter guy, RIGHT?) gives you confirmation that you made the right choice.
You walk out with your cheap chinese made rotors, like a BOSS (even though for the same initial cost + cost of turning you probably could have bought quality parts). Time to post on T4R.org so people know how right you are.
Troll FAIL. :sleepy:
Brilliant, that's what I thought. That's why I went with Toyota OEM rotors.
ryankmasuda
New member
Well done! I almost want to print this for future reference.
TN_Soljah808
New member
RunninOnBlue
New member
Those are the 199mm.
Edit: I stand corrected...I guess those are the 231mms. Ooops!
Last edited:
BigFishAllDay
New member
I'm going to disagree with RunninOnBlue and say that yes, you bought the correct pads. Just for everyone's reference, this is a copy of a post I made in another thread:
I was curious, so I looked this up...
STOCK pad on the left VS. 231 pad on the right
199 pad
It looks like the stock pad and the 199 pad have about the same contact area with the 199 pad having a slight bit more at the corners on the hub side of the pad. They appear to me to share the same sized backing plate. The 199/231mm rating speaks to the size of the pad opening on the caliper. I will bet that the stock calipers also have a 199mm pad opening, the only difference on the Tundra 199's being that the opening is slightly wider to accommodate the thicker rotor.
The 231 pad is slightly larger again than the 199 pad, but notice the big jump in the size of the backing plate? That is a major factor in heat dissipation from the pad into the caliper. Then you have the fact that the 231 caliper has a larger fluid volume, which also helps shed heat faster than the 199 setup.
I went with the 231's because I could. My wheels cleared the calipers, and I wanted new components. Considering the cost of the 199's vs. the 231's when buying new, it was a no brainer to go big and get the most improvement for my money.
Don't worry about it. You do not need Tundra lugs. You are talking about a difference of 0.2 mm. That's the equivalent of probably not much more than 1/8 turn of thread engagement on the lugs.
Sorry man, but those are 231 pads.
This is part of the info on the first page:
Attachments
hungwin jza80
New member
Hey guys, if I took some detailed measurements of the inside of my Weds wheels, do you think it'll be enough to gauge whether or not the 231s will fit?
Thanks,
Hung
SIKHILUXSURF
New member
hey Hung,
i am sure these should fit the 231's as for me i had to run extended studs and 5mm spacers to clear on my jaos wheels. you have the -25mm hase spec wheels so there is more concave spokes allowing you to clear the calipers.
cj80cruiser
Senior Member
I'm going to ask a very simple question about this swap. Where are you guys getting the plastic tubing for the bleeders? I suppose airline tubing for a fish tank would work? If there is a better place to find it let me know.
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