Has anyone changed the interior colors of headliner and top trim panels?

Apply Paint Over Polyethylene, Polypropylene, ABS, and PET/PBT Blends

You can apply paint over Polyethylene, Polypropylene, ABS, and PET/PBT Blends with proper surface preparation and primer.

1. First wipes down the surface with a 50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol such as Denatured Alcohol to remove any contaminants prior to sanding.

2. Sand the surface with 60-80 grit sandpaper.

3. Wipe down the surface again with 50/50 Isopropyl Alcohol ( Denatured Alcohol ) to remove all sanding residue.

4. Apply 3M Tape Primer over a small section. M23929

5. Apply a small test section of the desired Topcoat paint. Since there are so many type of paints, it is recommended to perform an adhesion test on the small area painted. Once the paint has dried perform a hatch test. Use a razor blade to cut into the paint and the primer and draw a 2-3 inch line. You should follow this at least 3 more parallel lines about 1cm apart. Then cut 4 more perpendicular line again about 1cm apart. It should like a large tic-tac-toe game. Finally, apply duct tape firmly and then pull the tape off quickly. If you have any paint or primer on the tape the adhesion is poor. If there is no paint or primer on the tape then it is safe to apply the primer and paint over the entire surface.

This application and test can be used for topside paints and bottom paints.
Apply Paint Over Polyethylene, Polypropylene, ABS, and PET/PBT Blends
 
PLASTIDIP for the trim?
I am thinking, spray paint will get scratched, then if you paint over, you see the scratch. So the prep work to respray adds more work.

Since the pieces would have to come out to be spray painted anyway, Plasti-Dip can be peeled off and re-coated with ease.

Ugh, do not use Plasti-Dip. That stuff looks nice for a little bit and then goes to shit quite quick after. I used it on the radio trim in my Saab 9-2x. Looked nice but then started peeling. Plus it scratches really easily.
 
Ugh, do not use Plasti-Dip. That stuff looks nice for a little bit and then goes to shit quite quick after. I used it on the radio trim in my Saab 9-2x. Looked nice but then started peeling. Plus it scratches really easily.

Noted.
I was under the impression you can peel off with no residue/alteration to the original surface though.
But it is not like I will be ripping the plastic out as needed, hence why I am looking for a "one and done" solution.
 
a buddy of mine that does interior repairs for dealerships used these SEM products.

Innovative Repair And Refinishing Products | SEM Products


Looking for a dark gray top section, not black, and this may be a viable option. I ordered a case. After tax and shipping, it works out to about $13 per can from STOCKWISEAUTO. Best price shipped. Others start at $15 can with no shipping included.

Trim Black Charcoal Metallic
Part #39033
Trim Black Charcoal Metallic | SEM Products
 
Looking for a dark gray top section, not black, and this may be a viable option. I ordered a case. After tax and shipping, it works out to about $13 per can from STOCKWISEAUTO. Best price shipped. Others start at $15 can with no shipping included.

Trim Black Charcoal Metallic
Part #39033
Trim Black Charcoal Metallic | SEM Products

I have changed the interior color of at least 10 vehicles over the years using various major paint brands but SEM is about the only one left and is arguably the best.
Rather than the spray cans, I always bought the quart cans, more than enough to do a complete interior, door skins, vinyl seats, dash, headliner etc.
It is very thin, dries fast and usually takes 2 or 3 very thin coats. Lasts forever and I'm referring to use on seats for that claim.
Headliner is no biggie.

I would see if I could change the order to the quart.
Get a cheap spray gun at Harbor Freight, borrow a little compressor and no matter what type use a good mask.

If you have any concerns, just call SEM, they have always been very good.
Good luck.

Forgot to mention, the last Corvette interior I did, did not list the proper color, called SEM, they gave me the formula and took it to a local automotive paint store that handled them and they mixed up a can of it just as they would an exterior paint color.
 
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seatia, thanks for the info.

In life around customization, I only ever saw ONE good job on non-factory painted plastic.
My bud had all the black plastic painted to match the body.
The mirrors, door handles and all in the early 00's.

Nothing ever scratched, peeled, chipped, faded or anything.
They gave no warranty as they were unsure how it would turn out.
But, that shop closed up.
 
seatia, thanks for the info.

In life around customization, I only ever saw ONE good job on non-factory painted plastic.
My bud had all the black plastic painted to match the body.
The mirrors, door handles and all in the early 00's.

Nothing ever scratched, peeled, chipped, faded or anything.
They gave no warranty as they were unsure how it would turn out.
But, that shop closed up.

I can guarantee you that using the SEM with a spray gun, prepping it properly, and spraying with a gun you will end up not being able to tell it from original.
Not that hard even for a novice.
 
Looking forward to some before/after pics....:artist:


I dont even have the truck yet : )
It is coming in sometime in January.
First thing, is Cosmoline everywhere before it gets driven much and I have a cleaning prep job to add, which I do NOT want.

I know people have their choices, but I know what works from experience. Plus a few "tests" I did. (I dont youtube, take pics or notes on these experiments)
Waxoyl has been on a Rover Disco 1 since 99.
It is my official snow vehicle in the rust belt, and with the aluminum body and waxoyl on the frame, there is minimal rust after 21 years.

Then it goes in for a SQ system.
I can do it myself, but I'm not feeling the labor as I age.
The shop I'll use is top notch for custom work, so I'll see if they can guarantee a pleasing outcome for changing the interior to dark gray on the white portions.
If the cost is unreasonable, I'll attempt myself.


Apologies for misspellings as I am mobile.
 
I can guarantee you that using the SEM with a spray gun, prepping it properly, and spraying with a gun you will end up not being able to tell it from original.
Not that hard even for a novice.

The rattle cans are for testing really.
I am not against ordering more.

I may have to invest in a basic sprayer.
I have a nice HVLP rig, but I dont think I'll get a decent result.
I need something to spray Cosmoline uncut as well.
I'll get a first and second coat on with rattle cans as I explained in the previous post, I dont want to add a cleaning step
 
The rattle cans are for testing really.
I am not against ordering more.

I may have to invest in a basic sprayer.
I have a nice HVLP rig, but I dont think I'll get a decent result.
I need something to spray Cosmoline uncut as well.
I'll get a first and second coat on with rattle cans as I explained in the previous post, I dont want to add a cleaning step

Your existing HVLP will spray the SEM

To spray Cosmoline or similar, a syphon feed spray gun works well.
A brand name such as Binks has many tips and needles available for different viscosities.
I have a Binks No7 that years ago spayed undercoating as well as painting carts with laquer paint with the right tip.
A cheapo gun from HF will probably do the cosmoline or you could adapt the gun to a small pressure pot.
 
Ding ding :deadhorse:Tyson /Ali in da ring baby don’t forget your gold/diamond grillz baby
Now round 3 :bump2:
Mike :pound:
 
Your existing HVLP will spray the SEM

To spray Cosmoline or similar, a syphon feed spray gun works well.
A brand name such as Binks has many tips and needles available for different viscosities.
I have a Binks No7 that years ago spayed undercoating as well as painting carts with laquer paint with the right tip.
A cheapo gun from HF will probably do the cosmoline or you could adapt the gun to a small pressure pot.


I am actually wondering if I should visit a scrap yard and pick up a spare set of everything that I want to dye/paint gray.
I tend to keep vehicles forever, so resale isn't a concern, but over the years, if things start to look like crappola, I can swap out.
 
Noted.
I was under the impression you can peel off with no residue/alteration to the original surface though.
But it is not like I will be ripping the plastic out as needed, hence why I am looking for a "one and done" solution.

It doesn't come off as easy as it should unfortunately
 
There is a build on here that I saw like 3 weeks ago and this guy had all of the plastic repainted, custom leather on the seats, doors, etc.. I don't recall if he had the headliner done but damn. I'm looking for the thread because he'd be a good resource for you.

He also had the whole truck wrapped in army green. Anyone remember the build??

Edit: [MENTION=5554]Nobody[/MENTION]_Special I found the build! The link below is page 3 of his build log, scroll to post #44 where he outlines some details, and there are photos in the posts following that. Could probably reach out to him for more info.

Ultimate Mall Crawler Build
 
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