Having trouble with CV Axle change

[sam_918]

Well, I printed out and read a few write-ups and watched some youtube videos on changing the front axles. I felt confident to do the job.

I'll start and say I live in Wisconsin and the truck has been either here or in Minnesota its entire life. Not like those easy southern rust free vehicles in the write ups.

I've removed everything I can and am having trouble with tie rod end to get the play needed. I've got the nut off but the stud is not sliding out. Do I really need to go rent the tool or does someone have a trick.

That is the small problem. Mainly, I can't figure out how to the bearing assembly comes off. I know now after reading more that this may of not have been necessary, but I have already committed and it is some what coming off. Did I just screw myself and mess up the bearing? Is it better to hit it back on or get the tool and pull it off? Is there another method?

Funny, I called this a CV axle problem but haven't even gotten close to removing the axle.

I would like to have my truck back by Monday, but I am not sure if that is going to happen if I need parts. Any help or advice would be great and questions about the situation are even better since I probably didn't explain it all that well.

 

[Kmvreter]

Well, I printed out and read a few write-ups and watched some youtube videos on changing the front axles...

... am having trouble with tie rod end to get the play needed. I've got the nut off but the stud is not sliding out. Do I really need to go rent the tool or does someone have a trick.

... I can't figure out how to the bearing assembly comes off. I know now after reading more that this may of not have been necessary, but I have already committed and it is some what coming off. Did I just screw myself and mess up the bearing? Is it better to hit it back on or get the tool and pull it off? Is there another method? ...

Welcome.
Not sure about a trick (maybe there is one) with the tie rod end except the proper tools.
More importantly, why are you messing with the bearing? Why would you have to "hit it back on" when the assembly is held on with 4 bolts? Give us some pics.

Have you seen this thread and the FSM pages I attached there: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html
I'll mention [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION] for any bearing issues.

 

[sam_918]

I primarily went with the write up on the FJ forum since it had pretty pictures and it made the most sense to me to remove everything out of the way for when you had to pull the axle out of the diff. Also, some videos made the remove and installation of this look pretty easy.

I do have a copy of the FSM pages and I think I need to review those closer. I shy'd away from those during the process since all they seems to talk about was SST this and SST that. (Really Toyota? That many special tools for one of the most common wear parts?)

Sorry I don't have a picture. The brake dust shield can almost spin freely and the hub is about 1/4" slid out, I also somehow popped out a wheel stud and have a gearwrench stupidly stuck on one of the bolts for the hub.

I am thinking I will need the puller to get the stud back on and finish the project. I won't be trying that when I do the other side. Any more advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[nj636]

Well, I printed out and read a few write-ups and watched some youtube videos on changing the front axles. I felt confident to do the job.

I'll start and say I live in Wisconsin and the truck has been either here or in Minnesota its entire life. Not like those easy southern rust free vehicles in the write ups.

I've removed everything I can and am having trouble with tie rod end to get the play needed. I've got the nut off but the stud is not sliding out. Do I really need to go rent the tool or does someone have a trick.

That is the small problem. Mainly, I can't figure out how to the bearing assembly comes off. I know now after reading more that this may of not have been necessary, but I have already committed and it is some what coming off. Did I just screw myself and mess up the bearing? Is it better to hit it back on or get the tool and pull it off? Is there another method?

Funny, I called this a CV axle problem but haven't even gotten close to removing the axle.

I would like to have my truck back by Monday, but I am not sure if that is going to happen if I need parts. Any help or advice would be great and questions about the situation are even better since I probably didn't explain it all that well.

to remove the tie rod from the spindle, hit the spindle with a hammer where the tie rod goes in. it may take a few whacks to free the tie rod end but it will pop out.
as far as the hub assembly. back out the four bolts as much as you can, then pry between the bearing and the spindle. it may take some work but you will eventually get in-between the two and get it out.

 

[svana]

FWIW, I followed similar instructions when I removed my CV. THIS LINK was the primary one I referenced. Yes it's for 3rd gens, but the process is the same. This one works primarily by swinging the hub and other stuff out of the way instead of removing it.

A few notes from my experience:

To take off the tie rod you really just have to beat the crap out of the collar until it literally just pops off. Doesn't have to be hit up, just directly perpendicular to the collar (FWIW, I don't think the instructions above call for it). Youtube tie rod removal/replacement and a bunch of videos will come up on how to get it off.

Once all that mess is removed/out of the way and you actually get to the cv removal, it may be advantageous to have a second set of hands if you don't have a slide hammer. I had a crowbar and a BFH, so I couldn't hold the crowbar securely and get enough force with the hammer to dislodge the CV itself. With 2 of us, I ended up holding the bar in place while the other could get squared away and give it a couple good whacks.

One last piece of advice: Lower ball joint bolts suck. Always a pain for me to get them threaded back on, but that may just be my experience. I try to avoid it whenever possible, but it seems like those are always the first things off lol. If you need any help just give us a shout. I ended up replacing my passenger side CV a few weeks ago.

 

[H20skier70]

You dont need to take off the tie rod. There two bolts on bottom of the lower control arm. Un bolt those and slide the spindle out of the way. Let me know if you need pics. Or a better explanation for that matter.

 

[sam_918]

I finally got it done. Thank you all for the input.

I got cement chisel and 3 ib hand sledge back from a buddy I borrowed it to, and what a difference that made.

This still took all day since rockauto sent the wrong axles and I had to wait for o'reillys afternoon truck.

I still had to get the wheel bearing assembly off since I needed to get my gear wrench back and replace a wheel stud that came loose. When I got the assembly out a springy ring popped out off the inner seal and I could not get it to seat back on. Will this be a problem in the near future?

Thanks again

 

[t-man]

I finally got it done. Thank you all for the input.

I got cement chisel and 3 ib hand sledge back from a buddy I borrowed it to, and what a difference that made.

This still took all day since rockauto sent the wrong axles and I had to wait for o'reillys afternoon truck.

I still had to get the wheel bearing assembly off since I needed to get my gear wrench back and replace a wheel stud that came loose. When I got the assembly out a springy ring popped out off the inner seal and I could not get it to seat back on. Will this be a problem in the near future?

Thanks again

Yes, you need to replace that inner seal. They are cheap and easy. They keep dirt out of the bearing so you don't have to replace that, and they are expensive too.
As for the CV, very simple. Remove the two bolts at the bottom of the Lower ball joint, as [MENTION=71062]h2oskier[/MENTION]70 said already. Once that is off you can move that whole assembly around like it's nothing and just slide the CV out of the bearing assembly. Then take a flat bar (those L shaped bars made to pull nails and what not) and put in behind the CV at the center dif and it pops right out. Should literally take you less than an hour. Removing the bearing unless needed for some reason is always a no-no. Can just lead to trouble for you, ripped seals, broken bolts, all sorts of potential hazards there. Hope this helped, although it's a little late I'm sure you will have to do more in the future.