I had a similar issue with coolant loss. I rented the coolant/radiator pressure tester from autozone for another car I was working on and decided to pressure test my radiator cap. The cap held no pressure, I purchased a new cap and now Im not loosing any coolant. Worth a shot...
Head Gasket??
- Thread starter judoant
- Start date
I have owned 2 Tacoma’s and 2 camrys over the last 20 years. Call me a toyota guy.
Always wanted a 4Runner. A year and a half ago I found a 2005 V6 sr5 with 198k miles for $7500.00. I wasn’t afraid of the mileage due to past experience but realized the risk.
If I were smarter I would have investigated more on this site....
Well, at 205000 miles I noticed the rough start, white smoke and Check engine light.
Went to Oreilly’s and report said misfire at #6. Changed plugs, switched coil pack with another cylinder and the check engine light came back on. Went to toyota dealer for a leak down test and borescope, they found evidence of recent coolant leak at #6 and suggested resurfacing both heads since most of the $3600.00 was labor. My choices were to have the head work done, try a temporary gasket seal fix, sell it to some other unsuspecting individual or do nothing and risk the inevitable cylinder damage that the coolant will cause.
I had the head work done at the dealer and all is well with the exception of rough idle which the dealer said should disappear when the computer adjusts itself to the minor increase in compression caused by the head resurfacing. Time will tell as I do have a year warranty on the work and had them document the rough idle. I did notify Toyota and filed a complaint in case they ever decide to do a recall since this is a common problem on high mileage V6 engines. Toyota bought my 99 Tacoma for the high retail price in 2011 due to the frame rail rust out recall so I’m about even with them. What goes around comes around......
Good luck.
Always wanted a 4Runner. A year and a half ago I found a 2005 V6 sr5 with 198k miles for $7500.00. I wasn’t afraid of the mileage due to past experience but realized the risk.
If I were smarter I would have investigated more on this site....
Well, at 205000 miles I noticed the rough start, white smoke and Check engine light.
Went to Oreilly’s and report said misfire at #6. Changed plugs, switched coil pack with another cylinder and the check engine light came back on. Went to toyota dealer for a leak down test and borescope, they found evidence of recent coolant leak at #6 and suggested resurfacing both heads since most of the $3600.00 was labor. My choices were to have the head work done, try a temporary gasket seal fix, sell it to some other unsuspecting individual or do nothing and risk the inevitable cylinder damage that the coolant will cause.
I had the head work done at the dealer and all is well with the exception of rough idle which the dealer said should disappear when the computer adjusts itself to the minor increase in compression caused by the head resurfacing. Time will tell as I do have a year warranty on the work and had them document the rough idle. I did notify Toyota and filed a complaint in case they ever decide to do a recall since this is a common problem on high mileage V6 engines. Toyota bought my 99 Tacoma for the high retail price in 2011 due to the frame rail rust out recall so I’m about even with them. What goes around comes around......
Good luck.
BlackCat914
New member
Ya, kinda new to see tell tale signs of coolant washout. Maybe shine a flashlight down the cylinders and see if you have a cleaner than normal piston, which would give you an indication if a cylinder is getting coolant in it.
thegipper
New member
I've had a somewhat similar coolant loss with my 97 (215K miles). I had a small coolant leak form the rear heater hose lines which is now fixed. I thought that was where my coolant was leaking from (which it was to an extent) but that is all fixed now yet I still have to add coolant every couple months or so.
When I say add, I mean like an inch or so in the reservoir bottle, nothing major. Never found any coolant on the ground but it's winter so I haven't really looked under the engine real hard.
I do not have any noticeable white smoke in the exhaust although it is hard to tell in the winter.
No funny smell in the exhaust and clean oil.
Just for grins, I ordered one of those combustion chamber fluid leak testers (turns blue liquid green or yellow if there is a problem). Should be here in a couple days and I'll report back on what I find.
If I do have a HG leak, it must be a very, very small one.
The one thing that has me a little worried is recently when I start it up, it feels ever so slightly rough for maybe 5 seconds after it has been sitting. It then runs fine.
No overheating (monitoring with ultra gauge) and no other major signs. No CEL either.
If the test fails and I do have a HG issue, I got a spare 99 motor I can swap in but man that will suck. Although I would try using something like blue devil first since the leak would be a very minor one.
When I say add, I mean like an inch or so in the reservoir bottle, nothing major. Never found any coolant on the ground but it's winter so I haven't really looked under the engine real hard.
I do not have any noticeable white smoke in the exhaust although it is hard to tell in the winter.
No funny smell in the exhaust and clean oil.
Just for grins, I ordered one of those combustion chamber fluid leak testers (turns blue liquid green or yellow if there is a problem). Should be here in a couple days and I'll report back on what I find.
If I do have a HG leak, it must be a very, very small one.
The one thing that has me a little worried is recently when I start it up, it feels ever so slightly rough for maybe 5 seconds after it has been sitting. It then runs fine.
No overheating (monitoring with ultra gauge) and no other major signs. No CEL either.
If the test fails and I do have a HG issue, I got a spare 99 motor I can swap in but man that will suck. Although I would try using something like blue devil first since the leak would be a very minor one.
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thegipper
New member
I forgot to add, the WP may be original. The timing belt was done at 105k miles so the belt/WP are due to be changed, no clue if the WP is original or if it was replaced at 105k with the TB. I'm going to check around the WP to see if its maybe leaking from there (weep hole?).
LittleCaesar
New member
[MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION], I'd start with the water pump and go from there. Do you lose more during the summer or winter or does it matter?
The nice thing with this tester is if there isn't much of a color change, if one sees bubbles with time, then one knows there is a problemL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0DdVQoBu4U
The one huge caveat I have with blue love in a can is that it can clog up a heater core is too much is used. I honestly would rather remove the engine that the dash to get to the heater core.
The nice thing with this tester is if there isn't much of a color change, if one sees bubbles with time, then one knows there is a problemL
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0DdVQoBu4U
The one huge caveat I have with blue love in a can is that it can clog up a heater core is too much is used. I honestly would rather remove the engine that the dash to get to the heater core.
I have never looked at the rear heater. I have never bypassed that. I will research.
This would not explain the rough idle though, right? I would think this would just be coolant loss.
My thought are this, and let me know what you guys think.
240k. Perfect condition except for the motor. No rust. Newer front seats leather. Newer tires. Newer lift. Newer front and rear bumpers. No rear locker.
BUT....
Engine leak down results.
5= 50% 6= 32%
3= 50% 4= 40%
1= 65% 2= 30%
Compression test results
5= 200 6= 205
3= 190 4= 185
1= 200 2= 185
These results look to me like the motor is on its last life, but I am no expert.
probably best case the rig is worth $6k running perfect
$2600 or 30+ hours + ~$700 of my time to replace the head gasket and resurface the heads if that is the issue with no guarantee the block is not cracked or how many miles I would get out of it after repair.
I LOVE this truck, but the fiscally responsible person in me is telling me to move this down the road. Get a Sequoia, Land Cruiser or newer 4Runner.
My budget would probably be under $20k
240k. Perfect condition except for the motor. No rust. Newer front seats leather. Newer tires. Newer lift. Newer front and rear bumpers. No rear locker.
BUT....
Engine leak down results.
5= 50% 6= 32%
3= 50% 4= 40%
1= 65% 2= 30%
Compression test results
5= 200 6= 205
3= 190 4= 185
1= 200 2= 185
These results look to me like the motor is on its last life, but I am no expert.
probably best case the rig is worth $6k running perfect
$2600 or 30+ hours + ~$700 of my time to replace the head gasket and resurface the heads if that is the issue with no guarantee the block is not cracked or how many miles I would get out of it after repair.
I LOVE this truck, but the fiscally responsible person in me is telling me to move this down the road. Get a Sequoia, Land Cruiser or newer 4Runner.
My budget would probably be under $20k
thegipper
New member
OP, I bought one of those blue chemical testers to check for a HG leak which should be arriving today.
Hopefully, my mysterious coolant loss is from my confirmed water pump leak.
You could try one of those kits to be absolutely sure it is in fact a bad HG, I bought it from Amazon for like 50 bucks but I think Napa keeps them in stock too.
A couple people mentioned blue devil. If you do in fact have a bad HG and the leak isn't too bad, I'd say it's worth a shot. Some people have had excellent results with it. If its a major leak (cracked head/block) there is no magic potion in a bottle that will fix it.
Keep us posted.
Hopefully, my mysterious coolant loss is from my confirmed water pump leak.
You could try one of those kits to be absolutely sure it is in fact a bad HG, I bought it from Amazon for like 50 bucks but I think Napa keeps them in stock too.
A couple people mentioned blue devil. If you do in fact have a bad HG and the leak isn't too bad, I'd say it's worth a shot. Some people have had excellent results with it. If its a major leak (cracked head/block) there is no magic potion in a bottle that will fix it.
Keep us posted.
LittleCaesar
New member
As [MENTION=138943]thegipper[/MENTION] stated, a used engine may be the best way to go as long as you have some sort of warranty with it.
With the air esaping out of the oil filler hole, that usually indicates bad rings or a scored wall. And no head work will alleviate that. I guess you don't know anyone with a video scope by chance?
With the air esaping out of the oil filler hole, that usually indicates bad rings or a scored wall. And no head work will alleviate that. I guess you don't know anyone with a video scope by chance?
I think I am going to replace the #6 fuel injector before I consider this motor toast. I am trying to put together a list of parts and I can not find a part number for the injector o-rings. Please see my injector parts list and confirm this is correct.
Thanks
fuel rail banjo gaskets. Crushable copper washers. - 90430-12026 x2
Intake plenum gaskets - 17176-62040 x2
Injector - 23209-62040
Injector o-ring - ?
throttle body gasket - 22271-62040 ?
Thanks
fuel rail banjo gaskets. Crushable copper washers. - 90430-12026 x2
Intake plenum gaskets - 17176-62040 x2
Injector - 23209-62040
Injector o-ring - ?
throttle body gasket - 22271-62040 ?
I replaced the #6 fuel injector the other night and have not had any stumble since. Holding my breath.
What I did notice was a pattern to the stumble and found a few others on here with the same symptoms.
Bring the rig up to operating temp. Let it sit for 5-15 minutes and it will stumble almost every time on re-start. Let it sit for shorter or longer and it starts right up. Hopefully it was a leaking injector. Time will tell.
What I did notice was a pattern to the stumble and found a few others on here with the same symptoms.
Bring the rig up to operating temp. Let it sit for 5-15 minutes and it will stumble almost every time on re-start. Let it sit for shorter or longer and it starts right up. Hopefully it was a leaking injector. Time will tell.
NegroTundra
New member
That is awesome news. Thanks for sharing that. I too had the same symptoms on a 99 about 3-4 years ago and offloaded it for fear of an expensive HG or head re-surfacing bill. Had I read something like this I would have tried the injectors and may have still owned that rig.
