Headlight wiring: Adapting H4 to 2 2-pin for projector retrofit

[PotentSeaMen]

Spent a long time trying to figure this one out on my own to no avail, hoping someone else may have done this.
I have retrofitted my headlights with LED projectors from Profile, bought from the retrofit source. Turns out adapting the 3-pin H4 to 2 2-pin connectors is awful. The projector functions as so:

The projector has a 2-pin connector for the LEDs (both Hi and Lo) and another 2-pin connector for a solenoid which exposes the high beam LED when powered. So when high beams are turned on, both connectors need to have power.

However the H4 connector only provides power to the low beam or high beam. When switched to high beam, the low beam loses power. This gives me either low beam light or activated solenoid, but not both.


I tried incorporating a relay, but couldn't get it to work. I would usually end up with only high beams..

I've already had to replace the 2-pin connectors because of ghastly quality (couldn't return them as I passed the point of no return and it's my daily driver), so I'm expecting to basically build my own wiring harness. Any ideas to help a fella out?

 

[DaMonkey]

Take a look at this. Posted this when I wanted high beam indicator to work. The 100ohm resistor is only necessary to get the blue high beam indicator to work. Need a resistor that can handle the current. 10 watts is what I used.

I used a fuse and relay for both sides for redundancy.

Lights are negative triggered both have power. I think that’s whats tripping you up maybe.

 

[Ed_C]

OP has a '99 and is in Canada, so it probably has the usual common ground/individual +12v headlight circuit since it has DRLs, not ground triggered.

 

[DaMonkey]

OP has a '99 and is in Canada, so it probably has the usual common ground/individual +12v headlight circuit since it has DRLs, not ground triggered.

Bah... here I am messing things up... I think you were part of helping me w the high beam.

 

[Ed_C]

Bah... here I am messing things up... I think you were part of helping me w the high beam.

LOL

Most people use a pre-made harness with non-replaceable/serviceable relay which I'm pretty sure also has diodes and other bits. Usually the Morimoto Motocontrol from The Retrofit Source, but I had a brand-new one fail on me a few hours after installation (it was wired correctly) so I've been using a cheaper generic "H4 bixenon harness" for about 10 months now on my dad's CRV retrofit (originally H4 equipped)

He can also probably just connect a diode from the highbeam + to trigger a relay or two

 

[DaMonkey]

LOL

Most people use a pre-made harness with non-replaceable/serviceable relay which I'm pretty sure also has diodes and other bits. Usually the Morimoto Motocontrol from The Retrofit Source, but I had a brand-new one fail on me a few hours after installation (it was wired correctly) so I've been using a cheaper generic "H4 bixenon harness" for about 10 months now on my dad's CRV retrofit (originally H4 equipped)

He can also probably just connect a diode from the highbeam + to trigger a relay or two

Those shutter solenoids must be milliamps right? Just a 4007 diode would work?

 

[Ed_C]

Those shutter solenoids must be milliamps right?

Pretty low current draw,even a 9 volt battery can be used to bench-test the solenoids.

Just a 4007 diode would work?

Should be fine,I've seen diagrams showing even 4001 diodes in use. Since the bixenon solenoids will be wired before the diodes I wouldn't worry about damaging them (diodes).