Heater Control Valve
- Thread starter la79
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JWaldz
Moderator
I've done extensive research on this and there's no custom setups out there that retain factory functions.
As for changing it out, no need to drain the rad. Just clamp off the hoses so fluid is retained within the lines. Any fluid beyond where you clamped will obviously be lost.
Probably wise to get one of those spill free funnels that you can clamp to the top of the radiator to add a bunch of fluid at once and run the vehicle. This will help get air pockets out.
As for changing it out, no need to drain the rad. Just clamp off the hoses so fluid is retained within the lines. Any fluid beyond where you clamped will obviously be lost.
Probably wise to get one of those spill free funnels that you can clamp to the top of the radiator to add a bunch of fluid at once and run the vehicle. This will help get air pockets out.
spartacus
Senior Member
it is fairly simple. don't have to drain the radiator but once done burp the system.
here is a video of a t100 but the process is the same
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4Xyf1Wmwlk&feature=youtu.be
So Who's had To Replace Their Heater Control Valve?
turbodudey2
New member
I had to replace my last year - it was leaking out through the valve packing.
I found an OEM Toyota valve (87240-35050) online for $35. From the dealership they're usually around $100 or so.
It's easy to change, as it's pretty much the highest point in the cooling system. Very little coolant will spill out if you're careful.
I found an OEM Toyota valve (87240-35050) online for $35. From the dealership they're usually around $100 or so.
It's easy to change, as it's pretty much the highest point in the cooling system. Very little coolant will spill out if you're careful.
thegipper
New member
I strongly suggest you buy an OEM heater valve. I wen't through 2 or 3 aftermarket parts and they all leaked within a few months until I finally bit the bullet and bought an OEM one. There is only one 10mm bolt holding it to the fire wall. Once it is removed, you can undo the cable and the hose clamps. It took me 15 minutes to replace it so it's a pretty easy/straight forward job.
Cheapest place I could find the valve was on partsouq.com
I want to say it was $60ish bucks including shipping.
Cheapest place I could find the valve was on partsouq.com
I want to say it was $60ish bucks including shipping.
OEM valve is the only way to go for these. Also, if you have a body lift, see my fun experience here:
Coolant valve broke / engine overheat
cliff-notes is add a drop bracket so you don't put any strain on the plastic hose ends.
Coolant valve broke / engine overheat
cliff-notes is add a drop bracket so you don't put any strain on the plastic hose ends.
Ok so I called a dealership to get correct parts and was given also given part numbers for two hoses that come off of the valve. However when I look at my valve in my truck it doesn’t look like the parts diagram? Mine has two hoses that come off but on the right it splits and there is a “T” connection.
My truck is a 96 and has a rear heater. So I’m wondering if they changed the hoses after that year?
My truck is a 96 and has a rear heater. So I’m wondering if they changed the hoses after that year?
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LittleCaesar
New member
You need part# 87240-35050 (used through 98). They probably gave you 35070, which works from 99 through 02.
There is a thread here which tells the differences but it has to be five years or older. The OP ran into the same problem.
There is a thread here which tells the differences but it has to be five years or older. The OP ran into the same problem.
Thanks for the help everyone. I did some more searching to confirm parts and part numbers:
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...s-should-i-replace.html?highlight=87245-35770
heater hoses
Please Help With Heater Line Part Numbers
Hopes this helps others.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...s-should-i-replace.html?highlight=87245-35770
heater hoses
Please Help With Heater Line Part Numbers
Hopes this helps others.
19963.4lsr5
New member
I put a Napa in my 97 two ish years ago. I’ll let you all know how it holds up.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I know I’m reviving an old thread here but I just had this break off on one side. I was able to order a replacement thanks to the info above but it won’t be here until end of next week, does anyone have a decent way to bypass or fix this for the time being. The ‘98 is our daily and this valve broke on the right side which I’m assuming will dump coolant when I start it up. Would I be able to get a double barbed connector to connect the two hoses or would it be better to try to plug it? Any help is greatly appreciated.
AuSeeker
Elite Member
You need to connect the 2 hoses together so you can start and drive it until you get the new part installed.
You need to get one of these and clamps if needed, not sure if this one is the correct size or not, just an example for you to see..
https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-Splicer-Fitting-Adapter-Coupler/dp/B007ZDO9SO?th=1
