Heater Help

U

Utahtoy

New member
Hey guys,

I am trying to avoid replacing my heater core. I noticed it would not blow hot air so I searched the forms and did some work before asking questions.

What I have done:

- Flushed heater core with water, it flows out the input or output side easily

- Flushed heater core with CLR and then distilled water

- New Toyota OEM red radiator fluid

- New heater control valve

The truck is still not blowing warm/hot air? Do you guys have any other tricks or tips? I am not wanting to dig into the dash if it is not necessary.
 
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Have you confirmed that the actuator for the heater control valve is, well, actuating? It's a cable that goes to the bottom of the heater unit inside the dash, where there is a motor that actuates it. Perhaps that motor has failed?
 
I believe the motor is broken since the hold/cold control knob is clicking. I already manually opened it and disconnected the cable from the unit under the hood. The only other thing I need to check is to make sure the flap in the dash is opening and closing of which it may not be because I can not hear it and the control knob is stripped.
 
When a radiator is 15 y/o, I replace it / once the heater fails to pour out heat and properly defrost the windshield.
- the calcium deposits corrode the fins, just to difficult to flush out & restore / brand new rad $150, cheap fix

Last week my 2000 SR5, had some heat issues / engine radiator replaced, 25,000 Km ago...so know its OK.
- heater fan only worked on HIGH / therefore, needed a $45 resistor...old one cracked / remove glove box, to replace
- fan control selector switch stuck, therefore door flapper had broken hinge corner...now a big tear down, is required
- so ordered a used blower housing from MI wreckers, for $150 US$...Toyota new was $1,300 + tax

Removing the dash, makes it a several hour job / once its apart, do it all.
- so replaced the AC condenser, with new (Spectra brand, identical to OEM) & recharged AC
- and replaced heater core, with new (Spectra brand, Made in Canada)
^^ Now all is as good as new.
 
Last edited:
You don't say what year or motor. Maybe put it in you signature.

If, when you flushed your heater core it flushed well and did not leak into your passenger compartment chances are it's ok. At least ok enough to put out some heat.

Is your engine getting up to operating temp? If not, maybe it's your thermostat.

Is the heater control valve hot to touch after the motor is up to temp?
If so, it could be the blend door in the cab. If not, a line to or from the heater core in the engine bay might be plugged.
 
Utahtoy said:
Hey guys,

I am trying to avoid replacing my heater core. I noticed it would not blow hot air so I searched the forms and did some work before asking questions.

What I have done:

- Flushed heater core with water, it flows out the input or output side easily

- Flushed heater core with CLR and then distilled water

- New Toyota OEM red radiator fluid

- New heater control valve

The truck is still not blowing warm/hot air? Do you guys have any other tricks or tips? I am not wanting to dig into the dash if it is not necessary.
Click to expand...
sounds like the blend door isn't working correctly.
not sure what type of actuator it uses, but it has either failed, or become disconnected.
 
Thanks for the input guys, motor is a 3.4L. The engine gets to normal operating temp quick so I doubt it is the thermostat. I am going to dig into the blend door in the dash as I cannot hear it move when I switch the climate control.
 
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