Heavy Duty Lower rear links

HD lower rear links - your choice?

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bigdaddy2021

New member
Good morning y'all,

Just putting together a list of rear lower link options, to keep all this info in one place. We'll be buying some soon and I don't know which ones we want yet- feel free to comment on your experiences with your choice or to let me know if I missed any other other options. I'll add more choices, if I find any more, too.

For those that might not have wheeled their rigs on tougher trails yet - our Lower rear links are rock MAGNETS and bend very easily. Many examples of this on 3rd/4th/5th gens that are wheeled on tougher trails. Personally, I'd much rather spend $400.00 up front, than deal with this on the trail (and as extra insurance you can keep one of your stock links as an on-board spare for you or other 5th gens/GX's/FJ's on the trial) . Most of these products should work for 07-14 FJ Cruisers and 03-up GX's, too.

Rokmen - 43017 Trail Series Lower Links - $360.00
43017 - Rokmen Trail Series Lower Links for 03+4Runner/07-14 FJ Cruiser
  • .250 wall DOM Tubing
  • Fully TIG Welded
  • Rokmen EnduroMaxâ„¢ Bushings
  • Maintenance Free, bolt them on and forget about them.Bushings are replaceable should the need ever arise – but probably will not...
  • Sand Blasted and Powder Coated for a tough and long lasting finish.

Dobinson's - WA59-520k Rear Lower Control arms - $360.00
Dobinsons WA59-520K Rear Lower Control Arms | 4Runner FJ Cruiser GX470 GX460

  • Suits 4th and 5th Gen 4Runner, FJ Cruiser (all years), GX470, GX460
  • Comes with highly flexible rubber bushings installed, and also high quality
  • polyurethane bushings and sleeves included in case you prefer to run poly instead of rubber
  • Made from HSLA (High Strength Low Alloy) Steel, 5mm (0.2″) wall thickness, and powder coated black
  • Oversized adjusters and rod thickness for maximum strength and durability with double-nut locking feature
  • Zinc plated, then powder coated black, for the ultimate finish and protection


Front Range Offroad fab - 4runner lower control arm links (5th gen, rear) -$390.00
4Runner Lower Control Arm Links (5th Gen, Rear) - Front Range Off-Road Fabrication

  • 4Runner lower links for 2010+. We built these for massive abuse!
  • Starting with 1.75" DOM tubing, we thread one end of the heavy wall tubing to accept huge 1.25" chrome-moly rod ends (heim joints).
  • On the other end we utilize an offset bushing to allow for more suspension droop.
  • We precision machine the tubes for wrench flats as well for easy adjustment, and tightening of the jam nuts. Since all the tubing is machined there's no error of alignment or welds to distort threats with weld bungs. Jam nuts and special stainless steel misalignments finish them off!
  • These slip into the stock brackets, and are designed to use the stock hardware for a perfect oem type fit! With the freedom of movement of these rod ends, these links allow for smoother travel, and increased drop of the suspension (provided the shocks allow it).

Sonoran Steel - 2003-2023 toyota 4runner HD Rear Lower links/trailing arms - $399.00
2003-2023 Toyota 4Runner Heavy Duty Rear Lower Links/Trailing Arms 200– Sonoran Steel Fabrication LLC

  • Center tube is made from 1.5" DOM tube that has 1/4" wall thickness.

  • Strong Flex Polyurethane bushings RED color - hardness of about 80 ShA* - suspension components have a hardness similar to the original metal-rubber bushes. However, strength of the polyurethane is many times greater, and the unique properties ensure long lasting comfort. *ShA - means the scale of hardness.

  • The center hole has a grease trapping grid, these bushings do not squeak or make noise.
  • End tubes are 1 3/8" DOM tube with a .219" wall which is then machined locally in Arizona to 1.96” ID which matches the factory Toyota links exactly, but with a thicker wall. This small attention to detail lets us run any bushing made for the factory links.

  • The side cable brackets are formed at an angel, made out of 1/4" thick steel and rotated upward 45 degrees to slide over rocks with ease and not be damaged.

  • The front end of the center tube is off set notched upward for more clearance and the rear end of the center tube is off set notch downward to provide maximum axle drop. STEEL-IT® Paint used for maximum corrosion resistance and so you can touch them up after you get trail rash from the rocks.
  • This product also fits the 2007-2013 FJ Cruiser.
  • MADE IN THE USA! With American DOM Tube, from American Steel Mills.
  • Why don't you make custom upper links? The best replacement for the upper links is re-bushing your current stock links with the replacement Strong Flex bushings we sell or new stock upper links from the dealer. The reason why is that you can not make either the lower or the upper links longer than that are, because the upper link brackets on the axle tube already clear the Panhard/trac/lateral bar cross-member by millimeters. Longer links will collide on compression causing catastrophic damage. The upper links will never get hit by rocks and the stock units side twist quite well. The small diameter solid stock will also twist like a torsion bar.
  • FYI: The first few years that we made lower links we used Rubicon Express, Currie Johnny and Summit Machine socket joints. While these joints did have good side twist movement, the problem was that they wore VERY quickly. Rebuilding the cartridge every year is not something we are interested in.

Metal Tech - FJCruiser/4runner offset Rear lower links -$499.00
FJ Cruiser/4Runner Suspension Links | Offset Rear Lower Links
  • When Metal Tech 4x4 designed their rear long travel suspension system for the FJ Cruiser/4Runner, we quickly realized a flaw in the Toyota suspension links' design.
With the increased suspension travel the links contact the axle housing not allowing for full freedom of movement for the axle. By doing an offset notch we simply moved the bushing to sit higher on the link tube which in turn provides greater clearance between the axle housing and the link.
  • Our offset lower links will not bind a full articulation and vertical travel when used with our rear long travel system and other 2" lifts. Also, another benefit to the offset links is a smooth sliding transition when rubbing up against an obstacle. Links with a standard notch have an uneven sliding surface which can cause damage to the axle mount, while the offset notch allows the link to sit lower allowing full protection against rock, trees, and other objects.

  • Metal Tech 4x4 offset lower links are made out of 1.75 x .290 DOM tubing, cnc machined to accept Currie 2 1/2" Johnny Joints, poly urethane bushings, 1" DOM sleeve with .25" wall support and a grease zerk for maintenance.

  • All of our links come with the hardware necessary to mount the e-brake cable to the link.
  • These suspension links have a limited lifetime warranty on the structure of the link (the tubing and the bushing shell) this does not cover the wear items such as the polyurethane bushings, johnny joint and grease zerks.
  • (sold as a pair)

SPC - 25950 - Toyota Rear Lower Control Arms with xAxis Sealed Flex Joints - $269.96
25950 - SPC Toyota Rear Lower Control Arms with xAxis Sealed Flex Joints

  • This pair of rear lower control arms are direct replacements for weak or bent factory units.
  • Made of 3/16” wall DOM tube, they are more than 2x stronger than the OEM arms!
  • They are equipped with a rubber bushing in one end for isolation of road noise and xAxisâ„¢ sealed flex joints in the other end for superior flexibility off road.
  • Whether you are replacing damaged OE parts or upgrading for offroad use, these are the arms for you.

Opt Offroad - Rear Adjustable Control Arms (03-21 4Runner, FJ, GX) - $519.00
https://optoffroad.com/collections/...djustable-control-arms?variant=40451378249918


  • 1.625in tube lowers

  • Johnny Joints® throughout:

  • We designed the lower arms to include one narrow joint (for articulation) and one wide joint (for cushioning). The 'wide' model JJs have as much built-in cushion as a conventional poly bushing, due to the 2-piece construction of their proprietary urethane bushings.

  • Johnny Joints have an impressive 34-42 degrees of articulation depending on the joint (other brands claim up to 33).

  • Wrench flats for easy adjustment and torquing of the lock nuts.

  • Powdercoated textured black with etched-in OPT logo.
 
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I was in a rush to repair my bent OEM rear lower links for a trip so I went with the one I could get as quickly as possible.

SPC Rear Lower Links
They are cheap and do the trick, not scientifically proven but I do seem to get a little more flex and I've already dropped them on rocks and they havent bent yet.
 
Xtremluck said:
I was in a rush to repair my bent OEM rear lower links for a trip so I went with the one I could get as quickly as possible.

SPC Rear Lower Links
They are cheap and do the trick, not scientifically proven but I do seem to get a little more flex and I've already dropped them on rocks and they havent bent yet.
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Right! I'm remembering now that I asked you about those. I think I thought these were unobtanium because the link I had showed them as backordered, but I think I'm getting my conversations mixed up. :noidea:

thanks for bringing these back up - added them to my list above. :thumb:
 
I wouldn’t overthink this.

Just get the one that suits your budget and bling.

I run metal tech because they go on sale during the holidays.

Only real advice is to avoid the adjustable unless you need the adjustability. Those big nuts tend to loosen over time and will give u a thunk at stoplights or worse it will egg out the mounting holes. I had to locktite mine down.
 
Overland Custom Designs. Mike doesn't have any 5th gen stuff in stock right now but it'll be back in stock soon.
I wouldn't replace anything until you damage them

Sonoran Steel are great too

@MSstudt



Overland Custom Design
 
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Jetboy said:
Welder + $25 in steel + black spray paint.

Simple DIY Rear Lower Control Arm Upgrade

Only thing I would not do is use poly bushings.
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Psssshhhh, I'm not even sure you get to have a say? Didn't you betray us and sell your T4r? :D :D :D I kid, of course.

Tell me, what would keep you from the poly bushings that Sonoran Steel uses?

I know poly bushings have a tendancy to squeak in certain applications, but these seem to be touted to be designed not to do that. Are there other considerations?

The Rokmen arms have a proprietary rubber bushing that I would say might be a better option, other than the fact that they might be "unobtanium" if the vendor ever went under.

Thanks in advance.
 
bigdaddy2021 said:
Psssshhhh, I'm not even sure you get to have a say? Didn't you betray us and sell your T4r? :D :D :D I kid, of course.

Tell me, what would keep you from the poly bushings that Sonoran Steel uses?

I know poly bushings have a tendancy to squeak in certain applications, but these seem to be touted to be designed not to do that. Are there other considerations?

The Rokmen arms have a proprietary rubber bushing that I would say might be a better option, other than the fact that they might be "unobtanium" if the vendor ever went under.

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

I'm 4Runnerless at the moment. Probably not forever. Living in Alaska for a year or two and have a tundra for now. Wanting to pick up something here to go play with - Tundra is not ideal for most trails around here for a lot of reasons. But I think I'm going to buy a UTV. And I think I just threw up a little in my mouth even writing that.

Everything is a balance and there's probably no right answer for everyone. I would not use poly/poly because it doesn't have enough flex and the ends of the rear control need to move in a lot of different ways beyond just a fixed arc around the center pin/bolt. Poly is too rigid if it's used on both ends IMO. It's okay if it's on one end with a spherical bearing on the other so the torsional movement is accounted for.

My first choice for the OEM suspension if I'm keeping KDSS would be rubber. Rubber has plenty of flex and absorbs the shock loads well. And it's also maintenance and drama free. Of the aftermarket options - I like the SPC version probably the best of the ones listed here. It's a good combo of a drama free low resistance spherical ball on one end and OEM style rubber on the other. And being one of the cheapest is a bonus if the arm tube wall thickness is strong enough. I've never seen one in person so I don't have any reference for how strong it would be.
 
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Jetboy said:
I'm 4Runnerless at the moment. Probably not forever. Living in Alaska for a year or two and have a tundra for now. Wanting to pick up something here to go play with - Tundra is not ideal for most trails around here for a lot of reasons. But I think I'm going to buy a UTV. And I think I just threw up a little in my mouth even writing that.

Everything is a balance and there's probably no right answer for everyone. I would not use poly/poly because it doesn't have enough flex and the ends of the rear control need to move in a lot of different ways beyond just a fixed arc around the center pin/bolt. Poly is too rigid if it's used on both ends IMO. It's okay if it's on one end with a spherical bearing on the other so the torsional movement is accounted for.

My first choice for the OEM suspension if I'm keeping KDSS would be rubber. Rubber has plenty of flex and absorbs the shock loads well. And it's also maintenance and drama free. Of the aftermarket options - I like the SPC version probably the best of the ones listed here. It's a good combo of a drama free low resistance spherical ball on one end and OEM style rubber on the other. And being one of the cheapest is a bonus if the arm tube wall thickness is strong enough. I've never seen one in person so I don't have any reference for how strong it would be.
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Yeah, i didn’t see the appeal of ATV’s or UTV’s until i rode in one. ATV’s in Alaska, and UTV’s in Hawaii. Man, talk about fun, comfort, smoothness and utility (especially the Kawasaki 6 seater with dump bed we rode around in on the ranch where they filmed the Lost series and Jurrassic park.) We love our road-legal rig for our uses but for hunting, ranching or exploring a UTV is a great choice.

Thx for the perspective on the links and the end materials. The SPC’s are 3/16” wall vs 1/4” wall, so definitely a thinner tube than the others but definitely an improvement over stock.
 
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Jetboy said:
My first choice for the OEM suspension if I'm keeping KDSS would be rubber. Rubber has plenty of flex and absorbs the shock loads well. And it's also maintenance and drama free. Of the aftermarket options - I like the SPC version probably the best of the ones listed here. It's a good combo of a drama free low resistance spherical ball on one end and OEM style rubber on the other. And being one of the cheapest is a bonus if the arm tube wall thickness is strong enough. I've never seen one in person so I don't have any reference for how strong it would be.
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I was quite surprised at how flexible the xAxis end of the SPCs are. You can move it easily by hand which is quite nice. While they aren’t as thick as other options out there they are definitely beefier than stock as seen in this shot next to my bent OEM link. As mentioned before I’ve already dropped them on rocks and they are still straight. The true test will be when we run the Rubicon in spring if this damn snow melts fast enough.

fb3355255b6136a8c6986f3785aea03f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Rokmen
Thickest wall. Was the lowest price when I bought mine.
Has mounting hole for the brake line.
No extra noise.

Good stuff.
 
BackOff said:
Rokmen
Thickest wall. Was the lowest price when I bought mine.
Has mounting hole for the brake line.
No extra noise.

Good stuff.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. They certainly check a lot of boxes for me, based on what I think I'm leaning towards:

  • Powder Coated
  • Non-adjustable
  • Elastomer or rubber maintenance-free bushings
  • .250 wall or better tubing
  • On the lower side of cost
  • Up-armored part - first priority. Increased flex - 2nd priority - especially since I'm not running a Long-travel setup (nor plan to anytime soon)
 
BackOff said:
Rokmen
Thickest wall. Was the lowest price when I bought mine.
Has mounting hole for the brake line.
No extra noise.

Good stuff.
Click to expand...

THIS! I had Metal Tech and replaced then with ROKMAN when the Johnny joints wore out. Even with greasing they barely lasted 20K. No more JJ's for me. Too much trouble.
 
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