Heavy Duty Suspension

Sarge92

New member
Hey guys I am new to the forum. I have a 3rd GEN Runner. I am looking to do automotive work out of it and would like to know what the best suspension for carrying heavy loads are. I plan to put a gas compressor and my toolbox in the back. I figure that the quick struts from a tundra would work well in the front but unsure what’s best for the rear. I don’t want to have to do major modifications regarding the height such as extended flex lines etc. Please help anyone who has experience in this specifically. Thanks a lot!
 
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Hey guys I am new to the forum. I have a 3rd GEN Runner. I am looking to do automotive work out of it and would like to know what the best suspension for carrying heavy loads are. I plan to put a gas compressor and my toolbox in the back. I figure that the quick struts from a tundra would work well in the front but unsure what’s best for the rear. I don’t want to have to do major modifications regarding the height such as extended flex lines etc. Please help anyone who has experience in this specifically. Thanks a lot!

I dont have any personal experience but Arb Ome 2861s have been mentioned in a few threads for their weight carrying capability although the ride would suffer without the weight in the back. Air bags could also be an option if you want a level truck with a lot of weight 24/7.
 
The OME 2906s are considered to be a weight hauler netting 1-2 or more inches depending on where you sit now. You can run them with the stock length bilstien 4600s or a stock replacement shock. Nothing else needs to change from stock. Lots of us have these in the rear. About the best option for a little lift and increased weight handling.

Not sure how that will match what you have planned for the front. I don’t know if those tundra quick struts will pop right in. I think the top hats need swapping. If so, just by separate components.
 
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FWIW: The OME 881 (front) and 890 (and matching OME shocks)were sold to me as being suitable for constant heavy weight plus a bit (≈2") of lift. That's what I got 7 years ago in my '97, and when I do occasionally load it up with ≈400 pounds in the rear it rides firmly but nicely (my opinion) with an ≈ 2" lift.
 
Another vote for OME 906's, they are excellent for hauling heavy loads both in the rear and for pulling a trailer.
 
Hey guys I am new to the forum. I have a 3rd GEN Runner. I am looking to do automotive work out of it and would like to know what the best suspension for carrying heavy loads are. I plan to put a gas compressor and my toolbox in the back. I figure that the quick struts from a tundra would work well in the front but unsure what’s best for the rear. I don’t want to have to do major modifications regarding the height such as extended flex lines etc. Please help anyone who has experience in this specifically. Thanks a lot!
Like others have said 906's hold weight well without as much lift as 861's. If you are using tundra quick struts keep in mind that you will need to use the 4runner top hats with the tundra shock and spring.
 
If the load is going to be variable, Airlift 1000 airbags are another options. You can keep everything else stock if the weight is all going to be on the back axle.

(though new shocks wouldn't hurt!)

-Charlie
 
I second the airlift bags. They worked great for me when I did my "talls" and KYB's and lasted over 4 years. they saw some extreme weight...I mean extreme. they would prob still hold up well, but my rear KYB's were leaking and I just did the tundra/billie, LC/tokico spring shock set up. I might have to eventually get airbags for the new set up but I dont see hauling the weights I used to and will no longer pull the boat with my 4runner either. But will see next camping season how much sag I get. The 4runner bags wont fit in the LC springs so did not move them over.

But I did really like the air bags and I would hook them up with a "T fitting" my preference, they will balance each other out and only 1 fill port. If one delvelopes a leak, they will leak down together so your not high to one side.
Others like having 2 separate fill ports, 1 for each bag, as they can fine tune and balance themselves. Im not saying which is better, just what I did and why.
 
Thanks so much guys! Don't really want bags, I feel like they'll give me issues when the temp drops in the winter. So from what I've gathered, the 906 springs should be adequate for the rear with tundra quickies in the front using the original runner top hats. What about shocks in the rear? I'd prefer going heavy duty than replacing with a new pair of factory shocks.
 
okay great i see. Stock length bilstien 4600s a set of 906 springs and tundra quickies in the front sounds about right.
 
Thanks so much guys! Don't really want bags, I feel like they'll give me issues when the temp drops in the winter. So from what I've gathered, the 906 springs should be adequate for the rear with tundra quickies in the front using the original runner top hats. What about shocks in the rear? I'd prefer going heavy duty than replacing with a new pair of factory shocks.

No worries with the bags in winter. My bags were on for 5 years with no issues. I personally love the bags because they let me adjust for the load. When I have nothing it rides like stock, when I'm fully loaded it still rides like stock.

I would NOT do any sort of Quick Strut period. Monroe and Moog are the only 2 that really make them, and their pretty much garbage. The Monroes on my 2001 are absolute garbage compared to the KYB's from a Tundra that were on my 1999.
 
Ya you're probably right about the quick struts. I see the blisteins come front and rear, maybe ill go that route paired with the tundra coil springs in front? Are they any different from the runner springs?
 
Ya you're probably right about the quick struts. I see the blisteins come front and rear, maybe ill go that route paired with the tundra coil springs in front? Are they any different from the runner springs?
Different spring rate than 4Runner springs. It would probably be cheaper to get ome or eibach front springs rather than try to find the correct 1st gen tundra springs.
 
Different spring rate than 4Runner springs. It would probably be cheaper to get ome or eibach front springs rather than try to find the correct 1st gen tundra springs.

I agree. I think I paid almost 200 bucks for a set of Tundra Coils. I ended up getting some complete coilovers from a junkyard, verified by the VIN. It was a royal PITA, and the Tundra springs were honestly too stiff. I was also out of adjustment on my alignment with the Tundra springs, causing caster issues.

Best bang for the buck is Ac Delco 99 Tall springs and Kyb or Bilstein shocks.

Should be under 500 and maintain the stock angles so you don't go blowing out your crusty old cv boots.
 
Why would you upgrade the front coils? If you go with 5100's up front, you can just put them up one notch and get 3/4" of lift. The stock front springs don't really sag with age - and you are loading tools in the back, right? So, not real extra weight on the front.

-Charlie
 
I'd rather the 4600s because I don't want the lift from the 5100s and because they come front and rear i just need a spring that's strong and will work. I might just order a set of runner springs and pair them with the 4600 struts up front. I don't mind if the front dips a little lower than the rear, maybe it'll even out once its loaded up. What do you guys think about a set of 4600s, front and rear paired with runner springs up front and 906 springs in the rear?
 
I'd rather the 4600s because I don't want the lift from the 5100s and because they come front and rear i just need a spring that's strong and will work. I might just order a set of runner springs and pair them with the 4600 struts up front. I don't mind if the front dips a little lower than the rear, maybe it'll even out once its loaded up. What do you guys think about a set of 4600s, front and rear paired with runner springs up front and 906 springs in the rear?
At that point I would reuse my front springs, put 906's in the back, and 4600's all the way around. Front springs don't sag over time like rears do. If the price difference wasn't much then I would get 5100's all the way around.
 
I'd rather the 4600s because I don't want the lift from the 5100s and because they come front and rear i just need a spring that's strong and will work. I might just order a set of runner springs and pair them with the 4600 struts up front. I don't mind if the front dips a little lower than the rear, maybe it'll even out once its loaded up. What do you guys think about a set of 4600s, front and rear paired with runner springs up front and 906 springs in the rear?

I have a 99 so I have the tall springs but I have been running the setup mentioned plus air bags for four years. I haul 1000 lbs a few times a year and it does not hold up well unless I assist it with the bags. It would bottom out like the factory springs would. With 25 psi the truck rides level and smooth.

The 4600 have gone noticeably soft lately and the truck leans quite a bit on turns. I have always ran 4600's on all my rigs but they don't seems to be working well this time around.

I am considering the OME HD kit with bags.

If you frequently haul any type of heavy load then it is a good idea to assist the springs with air bags.
 
Putting my $0.02 in...

I just installed Dobinson C59-210V springs in my rear to handle the loaded storage/kitchen box in the back, full roof rack with awning/hi-lift/Maxtrax, Rago rear racks, all as full-time weight add-ons and they have been amazing! I plan to add skids, sliders, and a rear bumper within the next year, so with the ~4.25" of lift I currently have back there and these being progressive springs (unlike the 861's), I should still be sitting pretty for years to come.

Dobinsons Front Coil Springs for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 series 1990-19 – Dobinsons Direct
 
Random side note, make sure you change those front lower ball joints!

Also 906's are like 220 lbs sitting rate I think. I wouldn't personally go higher than that unless you will be constantly carrying gear, but that's just me
 

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