Hello, and a few questions... new 4runner owner

nathanours

New member
Hey everyone,

I recently bought a 2005 4runner sport edition with the V8. I bought the vehicle primarily as a daily highway commuter and for mountain fun on the weekends. As such, I'm going to need a small lift (already got the parts on order) and a few other minor upgrades. So far I've cleaned it up really well and thrown a scanguage in. Now for the questions:

-I'm under the impression I cannot run the Taco offroad 16" wheels due to my larger calipers in the sport, correct? Will they fit if I run a 1.25 spidertrax spacer to get more clearance?

With a 2-3" lift and above mentioned spacers how much trimming will be required for 275/70/17? 285/70/17?

Thanks!

 
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Hey everyone,

I recently bought a 2005 4runner sport edition with the V8. I bought the vehicle primarily as a daily highway commuter and for mountain fun on the weekends. As such, I'm going to need a small lift (already got the parts on order) and a few other minor upgrades. So far I've cleaned it up really well and thrown a scanguage in. Now for the questions:

-I'm under the impression I cannot run the Taco offroad 16" wheels due to my larger calipers in the sport, correct? Will they fit if I run a 1.25 spidertrax spacer to get more clearance?

With a 2-3" lift and above mentioned spacers how much trimming will be required for 275/70/17? 285/70/17?

Thanks!



I think the general answer "No, you cannot use a 16'' wheel". Although I am not speaking from experience.
I have a Daystar Kit on the way. 2.5/1.5. I am buying 285s very soon after the kit is installed. Just trim where it rubs is what I have gathered from most threads here. I havent read about much major trimming for 285s though (i.e. the body mount). You will need the wheel spacers to clear the UCA though. Assuming you use stock rims.
 
Welcome to the forum and congrats on a nice purchase.
A simple google search would answer your question regarding wheels. No worries though, I did it for you and here's what google returned on your silver platter.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/121822-rotor-size-question.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/66299-13wh-vs-13wg-calipers-question.html

I googled around, and I know the 16" wheels won't normally fit, but will they with spacers? In other words, are the calipers rubbing on the top so a space won't correct it, or on the sides, where a spacer will give me enough gap to run them? That's what I couldn't find in my search.
 
I googled around, and I know the 16" wheels won't normally fit, but will they with spacers? In other words, are the calipers rubbing on the top so a space won't correct it, or on the sides, where a spacer will give me enough gap to run them? That's what I couldn't find in my search.

No idea, I don't mess around with spacers... I suppose it's possible.

I'm curious why you want smaller wheels? You could just put an upsize tire on your existing wheels if you want more sidewall and toss on some spacers to get the stance you desire and be done.

the fj cruiser 8 hole wheels (oem trail wheels) have an offset that makes the tire sit flush with the fender on 4th gens.
 
No idea, I don't mess around with spacers... I suppose it's possible.

I'm curious why you want smaller wheels? You could just put an upsize tire on your existing wheels if you want more sidewall and toss on some spacers to get the stance you desire and be done.

the fj cruiser 8 hole wheels (oem trail wheels) have an offset that makes the tire sit flush with the fender on 4th gens.

Well, a few different reasons. First, 16" tires are cheaper and come in more sizes. I've also already got an almost new set of falken rocky mountains for a 16" wheel sitting in my garage, and I could pick up a set of tacoma TRD offroad 16" wheels for $150 and have them powdercoated to whatever color I want to save some cash over buying new tires. The cost of the lift and suspension is already getting quite expensive. I didn't want to cheap out on the suspension setup.
 
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No, you cannot run 16" wheels on your Runner, not even with 1.25" spacers. Sorry that you cannot save the money but it is what it is. Also, what lift are you installing? If you are going to do a literal 3" lift (I say "literal" because the spacers lifts DO NOT give 3" not matter what they say), with 285's, you are going to have to do the following trimming/modifications:

- remove front mud flaps
- push front wheel well liners forward
- chop the front body mounts (cut with a pneumatic cutting tool)

Also, if you are doing a literal 3" suspension lift, you really need to look seriously at longer upper control arms so that you can keep your caster in spec.

I hope this helps you.
 
16" vs 17" tires: I had 16's on my '07 SR5 and wanted to switch to the steelies with the round holes because I like the way they look. The ones I found were 17" FJC steelies and they fit fine. When it came time for new tires, I briefly thought about going back to the 16" OEM alloys (which I still have) because the tires would be cheaper.

And you know what I found? The difference in price was actually pretty negligible. I think I would have saved maybe $10-$20/tire (so less than $100 total) by going with 16's. Considering that I knew I was going to be dropping $900 - $1000 on tires (I went with BFG AT KO's) the difference between 16's and 17's was insignificant so I stayed with the 17's, again because I like the utilitarian look (I sprayed them gray so they look a little different than stock FJC black steelies.)

If you think about it, I'll bet you'd pay more than $20/each for the spacers, so running 16's with spacers would cost you the same $$ anyway, and you'd have spacers on there with all the inherent issues that brings (additional wear and tear on the spindles, handling issues, possibility of spacers loosening, etc.)

Bottom line, you have a sport so I'd say stick with the 17's.
 
No, you cannot run 16" wheels on your Runner, not even with 1.25" spacers. Sorry that you cannot save the money but it is what it is. Also, what lift are you installing? If you are going to do a literal 3" lift (I say "literal" because the spacers lifts DO NOT give 3" not matter what they say), with 285's, you are going to have to do the following trimming/modifications:

- remove front mud flaps
- push front wheel well liners forward
- chop the front body mounts (cut with a pneumatic cutting tool)

Also, if you are doing a literal 3" suspension lift, you really need to look seriously at longer upper control arms so that you can keep your caster in spec.

I hope this helps you.

So far I've ordered:

-King 2.5 extended travel coilovers with remote resi
-King 2.5 rear shocks with remote resi
-Total Chaos upper uniball control arms
-Icon rear 2.5" rear lift springs
-Toy tec diff drop kit

and probably a few other things I'm forgetting. Should be adjustable up to 3" in the front if I want to go that high.

 
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So far I've ordered:

-King 2.5 extended travel coilovers with remote resi
-King 2.5 rear shocks with remote resi
-Total Chaos upper uniball control arms
-Icon rear 2.5" rear lift springs
-Toy tec diff drop kit

and probably a few other things I'm forgetting. Should be adjustable up to 3" in the front if I want to go that high.


I'd give your neighbors at CVJ and Slee some business. You'll likely need new cv's after a few months running that lift on stock cv's and your rear brake lines will be tight at full droop. Echo the UCA comment, don't skimp, do it once, do it right, which appears to be your phliosophy with that suspension purchase. You'll also need new rear links if you're keeping your sway bar on. and probably front sway bar relocates if you keep that one installed.
Good luck and stick with 17"'s... put a plus one or two tire for an additional clearance to your rear diff clamshell.
 
I'd give your neighbors at CVJ and Slee some business. You'll likely need new cv's after a few months running that lift on stock cv's and your rear brake lines will be tight at full droop. Echo the UCA comment, don't skimp, do it once, do it right, which appears to be your phliosophy with that suspension purchase. You'll also need new rear links if you're keeping your sway bar on. and probably front sway bar relocates if you keep that one installed.
Good luck and stick with 17"'s... put a plus one or two tire for an additional clearance to your rear diff clamshell.

I was planning on having addicted offroad do the install. I forgot to mention I am using break line extenders. Will I need new CVs if I'm running that kit at 2" of lift rather than 3? Same for the rear links and sway bar locate? What do you mean when you say +1 or 2 tire?

Thanks!
 
I was planning on having addicted offroad do the install. I forgot to mention I am using break line extenders. Will I need new CVs if I'm running that kit at 2" of lift rather than 3? Same for the rear links and sway bar locate? What do you mean when you say +1 or 2 tire?

Thanks!

running a tire that is one or two sidewalls thicker achieves clearance/ lift. e.g. if stock is 265/65/17 run 265/70/17 or some run 255/75/17.

new cv's are case by case. Generally older cv's tend to fail once lifted later in life. happens quite frequently to people on here... so if the boots dont' rip you can sometimes get away with repair/ rebanding or you could be proactive and get cvj's with extended neoprene red boots to prevent it from happening.

when you lift the vehicle your sway bar is no longer in it's oem configuration so if you leave the oem endlinks, you're limiting wheel travel. Whatever lift you run in the rear you should extend your rear links by that much to maintain the oem wheel travel. sometimes on higher front lifts coilovers the sway bar will touch if not relocated slightly forward... google it, it'll make sense.
 
Well, the king deal fell through, so I'm just going to end up throwing on the toytec boss kit. on the bright side, it freed up enough cash that I was also able to order one of Scott's bumpers from Addicted Offroad.
 

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