Hello, gents. New here w/a black/burgundy 1987 22RE auto.
- Thread starter flagbasher
- Start date
flagbasher
New member
Last night I did a bit more research to determine if I had everything I need for the manual trans swap. Found out I needed a clutch bearing release collar and clips, so I ordered those from Marlin Crawler.
Apparently they changed the release bearing setup from the collar/bearing/clip variety to an integrated variety later on.
From what I know both are compatible with the trans and clutch fork, but I stuck with the release collar/bearing setup that would have gone with my clutch kit since I already had it.
My clutch fork retainer spring (the thing that holds it to the pivot ball) is a bit worn. I'd like to find a new one, but can't seem to turn one up in a search anywhere.
Any ideas there?
Today I dragged the trans out of the garage and did a bit of degreasing and rinsing. No pics of that. It still looks dirty, but it's way cleaner than it was before.
I took the shifters off and wanted to strip/paint them, but I can't figure out how to release the 5 speed shift lever from the whole assembly. Anyone know how?
The trans case shifter seems to have a retainer clip I could remove.
As soon as I can remove both of those, I'll strip and repaint them. I'll install all of the Marlin shifter seats and such as well... but I just can't get them apart now.
What I could remove, however, was the clutch fork. It was absolutely nasty. I degreased it multiple times, wire wheeled it, primed and painted it. I probably would not have cared if not for the bit of surface rust I spotted as I was cleaning it. Plus the fact that I bought a brand new clutch fork boot. Might as well install clean parts, eh?
After much degreasing.
After the wire wheel beating.
Rustoleum prime and two coats of paint.
Apparently they changed the release bearing setup from the collar/bearing/clip variety to an integrated variety later on.
From what I know both are compatible with the trans and clutch fork, but I stuck with the release collar/bearing setup that would have gone with my clutch kit since I already had it.
My clutch fork retainer spring (the thing that holds it to the pivot ball) is a bit worn. I'd like to find a new one, but can't seem to turn one up in a search anywhere.
Any ideas there?
Today I dragged the trans out of the garage and did a bit of degreasing and rinsing. No pics of that. It still looks dirty, but it's way cleaner than it was before.
I took the shifters off and wanted to strip/paint them, but I can't figure out how to release the 5 speed shift lever from the whole assembly. Anyone know how?
The trans case shifter seems to have a retainer clip I could remove.
As soon as I can remove both of those, I'll strip and repaint them. I'll install all of the Marlin shifter seats and such as well... but I just can't get them apart now.
What I could remove, however, was the clutch fork. It was absolutely nasty. I degreased it multiple times, wire wheeled it, primed and painted it. I probably would not have cared if not for the bit of surface rust I spotted as I was cleaning it. Plus the fact that I bought a brand new clutch fork boot. Might as well install clean parts, eh?
After much degreasing.
After the wire wheel beating.
Rustoleum prime and two coats of paint.
flagbasher
New member
Also, I plan to crack open the trans and look at the FSM to see if everything is in spec.
Problem there is, if everything is just fine and in spec, I'd need a gasket kit for the trans and transfer case to button it back up. Can't seem to find the gasket kit for everything. Marlin has one for the transfer case.
If everything is not in spec and I need a rebuild kit, I'd need one for the W56-D, which I can't seem to find anywhere. All of the rebuild kits seem to be for the earlier W56 trans.
I can't even get any solid info on what exactly changed from each iteration of the W56 except for the obvious top shift/forward shift switch from the W56-B to W56-C
The only reason I'm pretty sure my W56 is a W56-D is the number on the bottom. Leads me to believe it's a 92.
Number is 020604849
The first 0 seems to get thrown out 0-2-06-0489.
June of 92, trans 489 of that month?
Trans case has 2060 075.
Problem there is, if everything is just fine and in spec, I'd need a gasket kit for the trans and transfer case to button it back up. Can't seem to find the gasket kit for everything. Marlin has one for the transfer case.
If everything is not in spec and I need a rebuild kit, I'd need one for the W56-D, which I can't seem to find anywhere. All of the rebuild kits seem to be for the earlier W56 trans.
I can't even get any solid info on what exactly changed from each iteration of the W56 except for the obvious top shift/forward shift switch from the W56-B to W56-C
The only reason I'm pretty sure my W56 is a W56-D is the number on the bottom. Leads me to believe it's a 92.
Number is 020604849
The first 0 seems to get thrown out 0-2-06-0489.
June of 92, trans 489 of that month?
Trans case has 2060 075.
Last edited:
papawhellie
New member
I know on the 83 diesel transmission which is an l52 in a RN 38? truck 2wd 5 speed one of the clips was broken on the clutch arm. It is riveted to the arm so you have to buy the whiole part. Not sure on these but I'd bet on it. Call the stealer and ask. Mine cost about 68 bucks. Not bad for something I figured I would never find. My arm was cast iron as is the bellhousing on the L52.
Liking your truck as well.
Relevant to your post on the chrome grill: Do you have any experience with the repop grills? They are pretty economical.
Liking your truck as well.
Relevant to your post on the chrome grill: Do you have any experience with the repop grills? They are pretty economical.
flagbasher
New member
Price on the new grilles looks cheap, so I assume the quality is too. Especially for something chrome plated and in the elements.
If I wanted a painted grill, I would probably try a new cheap one.
Now I have 4 grilles. :|
If I wanted a painted grill, I would probably try a new cheap one.
Now I have 4 grilles. :|
flagbasher
New member
Rear drive shaft for the manual swap. Wire wheel, prime, paint.
What I started with and the beginnings of the wheeling process.
What I ended up with. I did a halfway decent job. I ended up with some paper stuck to the paint that I just put another coat over. A man can only give so many f**ks.
I have a second front drive shaft, but I'm not sure what condition the joints might be in. I might wait until I pull my front for the swap and paint that one.
What I started with and the beginnings of the wheeling process.
What I ended up with. I did a halfway decent job. I ended up with some paper stuck to the paint that I just put another coat over.
A man can only give so many f**ks.
I have a second front drive shaft, but I'm not sure what condition the joints might be in. I might wait until I pull my front for the swap and paint that one.
flagbasher
New member
Now on to the shifter levers and shifter seats.
The levers, as you'd expect, were a bit rusty, chipped, and scratched.
I made a thread asking how to get them apart, and it seems they're pressed together (where the red line is). So it made getting new boots on very difficult. I just decided that the original boots were in fine shape, and just kept them on there, moving them out of the way for the wire wheel.
After the wire wheel treatment, primer, and 4 coats of black. I also degreased the shifter plate so I could install the new Marlin seats.
The paint turned out nice.
The original seats were actually in pretty good shape. The plastic cap for the shifter, however, was looking pretty worn.
Fresh Marlin seats.
A bit of grease, some grunting and yelling, and it's all back together. The transfer case shift knob that came with the trans was actually in pretty good condition, so I bought a matching NOS shift knob to go along with it.
The slow march towards the transmission swap moves forward. I think the next step is to figure out what gaskets and seals I will need if I crack the trans open, even if I inspect it and fix nothing. And I need to know what rebuild kit I would need if things needed repair.
The only rebuild kits I see say it's 84-91, and this is a 92 trans. Not sure what the hangup is there.
The levers, as you'd expect, were a bit rusty, chipped, and scratched.
I made a thread asking how to get them apart, and it seems they're pressed together (where the red line is). So it made getting new boots on very difficult. I just decided that the original boots were in fine shape, and just kept them on there, moving them out of the way for the wire wheel.
After the wire wheel treatment, primer, and 4 coats of black. I also degreased the shifter plate so I could install the new Marlin seats.
The paint turned out nice.
The original seats were actually in pretty good shape. The plastic cap for the shifter, however, was looking pretty worn.
Fresh Marlin seats.
A bit of grease, some grunting and yelling, and it's all back together. The transfer case shift knob that came with the trans was actually in pretty good condition, so I bought a matching NOS shift knob to go along with it.
The slow march towards the transmission swap moves forward. I think the next step is to figure out what gaskets and seals I will need if I crack the trans open, even if I inspect it and fix nothing. And I need to know what rebuild kit I would need if things needed repair.
The only rebuild kits I see say it's 84-91, and this is a 92 trans. Not sure what the hangup is there.
flagbasher
New member
Well, time to pick up the project again.
Roll Bar
Now that the Softopper is on, it was really easy to finally get my roll bar out of the truck.
If you'll remember, I refinished the bar in the truck with the fiberglass top still on. The results left something to be desired in the areas I couldn't reach.
After the Softopper went on, the areas I missed really stood out.
So I pulled the bar out today, sanded a few scratched areas, primed those spots, and re-shot the entire bar and mounting bolts with Rustoleum semi-gloss black.
I'll let it dry until tomorrow night and I'll put it back in.
Then I'll probably wait a week or so before putting the pad back on. The pad needs a cleaning, too.
Transmission Swap
I think it's about time to pull the trigger on this.
I've decided against pulling the trans apart for a pre-installation inspection. I think I'm just going to roll the dice, cram it in there, fill it with fluid, and hope for the best.
I'm going to re-read all of the saved threads here and at yotatech to make sure I have everything I need. I'll consult the FSM for specs and procedures for clutch swapping. Then I'll probably ask if I have everything ready to go.
We currently have a big pile of mulch right where I want to work on the truck. So that needs to go first. Then I've got another car that was away for the winter that I want to drive for a week or so before I block it in with the 4Runner for god knows how long.
So... maybe 2 weeks until I cross my fingers and try the swap. Wish me luck. :lmao:
Roll Bar
Now that the Softopper is on, it was really easy to finally get my roll bar out of the truck.
If you'll remember, I refinished the bar in the truck with the fiberglass top still on. The results left something to be desired in the areas I couldn't reach.
After the Softopper went on, the areas I missed really stood out.
So I pulled the bar out today, sanded a few scratched areas, primed those spots, and re-shot the entire bar and mounting bolts with Rustoleum semi-gloss black.
I'll let it dry until tomorrow night and I'll put it back in.
Then I'll probably wait a week or so before putting the pad back on. The pad needs a cleaning, too.
Transmission Swap
I think it's about time to pull the trigger on this.
I've decided against pulling the trans apart for a pre-installation inspection. I think I'm just going to roll the dice, cram it in there, fill it with fluid, and hope for the best.
I'm going to re-read all of the saved threads here and at yotatech to make sure I have everything I need. I'll consult the FSM for specs and procedures for clutch swapping. Then I'll probably ask if I have everything ready to go.
We currently have a big pile of mulch right where I want to work on the truck. So that needs to go first. Then I've got another car that was away for the winter that I want to drive for a week or so before I block it in with the 4Runner for god knows how long.
So... maybe 2 weeks until I cross my fingers and try the swap. Wish me luck. :lmao:
flagbasher
New member
I also forgot to mention I have a few purchases on their way:
- Nice looking gray center console from eBay.
- Clear light kit. I'll probably look at LEDs too.
- Black column cover since I plan to go with the squared-off 84-86 gauge cover look that is gray and black mix. This means I'll probably want a black wheel at some point. If not original Toyota type, maybe a pricey Nardi or Tom's type.
- Drip rail chrome trim. These are from an extra cab 2wd, so I'll have to cut them down. Hopefully not too hard to do.
- Passenger side gray power window switch. I had a completely black one from a Corolla I was going to use, but this one popped up, so...
- Power antenna mast. I have an antenna switch in the cab, but it's been swapped to a non-power one. I got the motor a while ago, but it didn't have a mast. Hopefully the swap is painless.
flagbasher
New member
Yeah, I got a 91 forward shift W56 with the t-case. Not sure what it came out of, but I was told it's good.
Trying to track down a forward shift 1st gen shift boot/trim too. I assume it'll fit. G series trans on non-carb trucks were forward shift.
flagbasher
New member
Thanks!
I just snapped a pic of the faded label on the radiator. It was installed in 2011 by the PO.
Part number on it says 8010147.
Search turned up APDI as the manufacturer or the distributor at least.
https://apdi.mycarparts.net/product...nal-8010147?product_application_id=5563668841
fourwd1
Moderator
Yes, they were, but they are not the same as the forward shift t-case that mates to the W56. The 2 cases are not a direct swap.
flagbasher
New member
I'm not worried about the t-case. I already have that.
I'm more worried about the shift boots and console trim.
I want the installation to look factory if I can.
If you know the top/forward shift thing, you can identify the engine/trans type just by looking at the plastic shifter bezel. At least from what I've seen, all the top shift shifter bezels for the 22RE have a little storage cup at the front. The forward shift 22R doesn't seem to.
I just wonder if the G series forward shift and W series forward shift are in the same spot or not.
flagbasher
New member
Lord help me, I just pulled the trigger on these SSR Auswuch wheels.
I saw them for the first time via an Aussie here. Here's what they look like on his truck.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...-4runner-picture-gallery-121.html#post1845634
These are the same size as his. And like the Aussie truck, I'll probably drop to 30" street tires, too. Keep my 32" tires and original wheels as winter shoes.
They've got a bit of curb rash, so I might take them to get repaired and refinished before I slap them on.
Let the frivolous idiotic spending season begin...
I saw them for the first time via an Aussie here. Here's what they look like on his truck.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/class...-4runner-picture-gallery-121.html#post1845634
These are the same size as his. And like the Aussie truck, I'll probably drop to 30" street tires, too. Keep my 32" tires and original wheels as winter shoes.
They've got a bit of curb rash, so I might take them to get repaired and refinished before I slap them on.
Let the frivolous idiotic spending season begin...
flagbasher
New member
So, I still haven't done the manual trans swap. Too busy earlier in the year and now it's too hot.
I did, however, run into the intermittent click no start issue twice this year. First time I was waiting in a line of cars with the engine off for a while. Second time I was with family in the rain wanting to get home.
In the first instance, waiting about 10m and it started again. In the second, a good tap on the starter got it going.
I assumed it was the starter, but thanks to threads from RAD4Runner and KidVermicious, I figured my wiring might need an upgrade.
RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/119611-final-fix-intermittent-no-crank-22re.html
So, long story short, the circuit design from Toyota draws a lot of current through the ignition switch, and in the case of an automatic trans, also through the neutral safety switch. Equipping my truck with a relay would put less stress on those switches and allow the truck to start more reliably.
Auto trucks did not have a relay, and manual trucks after some time in 86 had a relay, but still had some wiring issues as seen in RAD4Runner's thread on YotaTech. Since I'm going to swap to a manual, I should have a relay regardless of whether or not I need a new starter soon anyway.
The previous owner had a list of items he had replaced, the starter and neutral safety switch had been replaced years ago. The starter may be getting old, but the fact that it had been many months between no-start incidents, I feel the starter is probably in fine shape.
I got the Painless Hot Shot Plus relay kit. It also includes a little button that lets you bypass starting from the ignition through all of those switches and cranks directly from the battery. The key still has to be in the ignition and ON, but it should help diagnose any future problems.
Hot Shot Plus With Engine Bump Switch Relay KitDetails | Painless Performance
I took pictures of the process. It was actually pretty simple to install. I installed it in such a way that I didn't cut into my original wiring harness at all. In fact, I can swap one wire for another and be back to the stock setup in case the relay fails.
Here's the Painless kit, some shrink tubing, stainless self-tapping screws and washers, and I added the two blue spade connectors in order to hook into the Toyota wiring harness from the starter.
The first thing you do is pull the negative battery cable. I wrapped the end of mine in a plastic bag.
At one point my truck had a nasty old Radio Shack bull horn in here on the fender. It's near where an original Toyota starter relay would have gone, and it's in reach of the starter wiring harness down below. I drilled and used my Dremel to grind the mounting points down to bare metal, since the relay needs to be grounded properly.
Locknut on one side, star washer on the other side against the fender to cut into that freshly cleaned area really well.
Mounted. I didn't use lock nuts and such on the circuit breaker to the left. It doesn't need to be grounded either.
In the passenger fender well, pop off the access plate. It makes reaching the starter easier.
Two pics showing me disconnect the plug from the ignition/neutral safety switch to the starter. This is the part of the circuit that is carrying too much current. Instead of triggering the starter AND powering the solenoid, it will trigger the relay, and the relay will power the solenoid.
Looking into the Toyota connector, it looks like it's just a standard female spade plug with a hard plastic jacket. Means I don't have to cut anything and I can just solder some plugs on the new wiring so it can be reversed.
I pull the Toyota starter solenoid connector up near the Hot Shot. It keeps the wire length from the Hot Shot shorter.
Now, notice the Hot Shot has three wires. Thin purple, medium purple, and fat red. The thin purple wire will be hooked up to the Toyota solenoid connector with a spade plug. The Toyota solenoid connector will now just operate the relay. You turn the ignition and it says "relay, do the hard work for me now please!"
Here are the lugs and plugs I need for the installation separated by wire. Male spade for the thin purple wire to the Toyota solenoid connector, female spade plug for the medium purple wire to the starter solenoid, and the three yellow lugs to pull power from the battery on the rightmost lug, through the circuit breaker with the two smaller lugs, and to the Hot Shot.
And I'm not going to crimp. I'm going to hack off all of this plastic, and solder these on, and shrink tube them all.
This is the thin purple wire with the male spade connector, and two lengths of 1/8" diameter shrink tubing.
Before soldering it together, I took the connector with some cleaner and ran it through the old Toyota solenoid connector 10-15 times to make sure it was clean.
Cut to length, stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, and double heat shrinked.
And just plug it into the Toyota solenoid connector. If the relay ever dies, I can just plug the Toyota solenoid connector back in to bypass the relay. If the ignition, NSS, clutch cancel, or clutch switch die, I can bypass all of those with the bump start Hot Shot switch. The only thing that can screw me now is the starter itself.
CONTINUED NEXT POST
I did, however, run into the intermittent click no start issue twice this year. First time I was waiting in a line of cars with the engine off for a while. Second time I was with family in the rain wanting to get home.
In the first instance, waiting about 10m and it started again. In the second, a good tap on the starter got it going.
I assumed it was the starter, but thanks to threads from RAD4Runner and KidVermicious, I figured my wiring might need an upgrade.
RAD4Runner's 1986 4Runner dlx Build-up - Page 3 - YotaTech Forums
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/119611-final-fix-intermittent-no-crank-22re.html
So, long story short, the circuit design from Toyota draws a lot of current through the ignition switch, and in the case of an automatic trans, also through the neutral safety switch. Equipping my truck with a relay would put less stress on those switches and allow the truck to start more reliably.
Auto trucks did not have a relay, and manual trucks after some time in 86 had a relay, but still had some wiring issues as seen in RAD4Runner's thread on YotaTech. Since I'm going to swap to a manual, I should have a relay regardless of whether or not I need a new starter soon anyway.
The previous owner had a list of items he had replaced, the starter and neutral safety switch had been replaced years ago. The starter may be getting old, but the fact that it had been many months between no-start incidents, I feel the starter is probably in fine shape.
I got the Painless Hot Shot Plus relay kit. It also includes a little button that lets you bypass starting from the ignition through all of those switches and cranks directly from the battery. The key still has to be in the ignition and ON, but it should help diagnose any future problems.
Hot Shot Plus With Engine Bump Switch Relay KitDetails | Painless Performance
I took pictures of the process. It was actually pretty simple to install. I installed it in such a way that I didn't cut into my original wiring harness at all. In fact, I can swap one wire for another and be back to the stock setup in case the relay fails.
Here's the Painless kit, some shrink tubing, stainless self-tapping screws and washers, and I added the two blue spade connectors in order to hook into the Toyota wiring harness from the starter.
The first thing you do is pull the negative battery cable. I wrapped the end of mine in a plastic bag.
At one point my truck had a nasty old Radio Shack bull horn in here on the fender. It's near where an original Toyota starter relay would have gone, and it's in reach of the starter wiring harness down below. I drilled and used my Dremel to grind the mounting points down to bare metal, since the relay needs to be grounded properly.
Locknut on one side, star washer on the other side against the fender to cut into that freshly cleaned area really well.
Mounted. I didn't use lock nuts and such on the circuit breaker to the left. It doesn't need to be grounded either.
In the passenger fender well, pop off the access plate. It makes reaching the starter easier.
Two pics showing me disconnect the plug from the ignition/neutral safety switch to the starter. This is the part of the circuit that is carrying too much current. Instead of triggering the starter AND powering the solenoid, it will trigger the relay, and the relay will power the solenoid.
Looking into the Toyota connector, it looks like it's just a standard female spade plug with a hard plastic jacket. Means I don't have to cut anything and I can just solder some plugs on the new wiring so it can be reversed.
I pull the Toyota starter solenoid connector up near the Hot Shot. It keeps the wire length from the Hot Shot shorter.
Now, notice the Hot Shot has three wires. Thin purple, medium purple, and fat red. The thin purple wire will be hooked up to the Toyota solenoid connector with a spade plug. The Toyota solenoid connector will now just operate the relay. You turn the ignition and it says "relay, do the hard work for me now please!"
Here are the lugs and plugs I need for the installation separated by wire. Male spade for the thin purple wire to the Toyota solenoid connector, female spade plug for the medium purple wire to the starter solenoid, and the three yellow lugs to pull power from the battery on the rightmost lug, through the circuit breaker with the two smaller lugs, and to the Hot Shot.
And I'm not going to crimp. I'm going to hack off all of this plastic, and solder these on, and shrink tube them all.
This is the thin purple wire with the male spade connector, and two lengths of 1/8" diameter shrink tubing.
Before soldering it together, I took the connector with some cleaner and ran it through the old Toyota solenoid connector 10-15 times to make sure it was clean.
Cut to length, stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, and double heat shrinked.
And just plug it into the Toyota solenoid connector. If the relay ever dies, I can just plug the Toyota solenoid connector back in to bypass the relay. If the ignition, NSS, clutch cancel, or clutch switch die, I can bypass all of those with the bump start Hot Shot switch. The only thing that can screw me now is the starter itself.
CONTINUED NEXT POST
flagbasher
New member
Next up is the medium purple wire. This wire is switched by the relay and will power the starter solenoid now. I route it down along with the existing wiring harness (blue tape) that feeds the main starter motor that comes directly from the battery. Here I'm showing how I'd feed it down to the starter. I feed it down there, cut the length I need, then pull it back up to solder on the female spade connector.
The medium purple wire will go right here. Right where the Toyota solenoid connector came off. Cut the length you need, then pull it back up the fender to solder the connector on topside.
Medium purple wire, female spade connector, 1/8" diameter shrink tube, and 3/16" diameter shrink tube.
Cut to length, stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, and double heat shrinked.
Feed the medium purple wire back down and use some cleaner to make sure the contact on the starter solenoid connection is clean.
Medium purple wire plugged into the starter solenoid connector. Make sure you get it on the actual spade inside. It's hard to see, and easy to mess up without the hard plastic jacket there to guide it into place. I've also cable tied the medium purple wire to the existing starter motor power wire coming directly from the battery.
Now we need to power the relay. That's what the fat red wire does. It goes directly from the positive battery terminal, into a circuit breaker, and into the Hot Shot. Small round lug, fat red wire cut to length, 3/16" shrink tubing, and 1/4" shrink tubing.
Cut to length, stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, and double heat shrinked. The other two lugs for the fat red wire are done with the same heat shrink sizes, so I won't bother to show those.
First I attach the fat red wire from the Hot Shot to the Aux side of the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker has a Battery side and an Aux. Aux side is silver, Battery side is copper.
Mockup for the last stretch of wire that will go from the circuit breaker Battery side (copper) directly to the positive battery terminal. Almost there!
Lots actually done in this step. Not only did I make the last wire, I also cleaned up all the lugs that were already connected with a wire brush, cleaned the battery terminal, and put on some of that protecting grease.
Finally I plug in the relay, tuck up all the wires, and replace the positive battery boot. Done!
The moment of truth. It started up instantaneously. Then I tried the bump start, which also worked.
Next up I will replace my ignition switch. It's probably original. I'm going to skip replacing the neutral safety switch because it's expensive, and I'm not going to have it for too much longer. The ignition, however, feels a bit loose, so a new switch will probably be nice.
The medium purple wire will go right here. Right where the Toyota solenoid connector came off. Cut the length you need, then pull it back up the fender to solder the connector on topside.
Medium purple wire, female spade connector, 1/8" diameter shrink tube, and 3/16" diameter shrink tube.
Cut to length, stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, and double heat shrinked.
Feed the medium purple wire back down and use some cleaner to make sure the contact on the starter solenoid connection is clean.
Medium purple wire plugged into the starter solenoid connector. Make sure you get it on the actual spade inside. It's hard to see, and easy to mess up without the hard plastic jacket there to guide it into place. I've also cable tied the medium purple wire to the existing starter motor power wire coming directly from the battery.
Now we need to power the relay. That's what the fat red wire does. It goes directly from the positive battery terminal, into a circuit breaker, and into the Hot Shot. Small round lug, fat red wire cut to length, 3/16" shrink tubing, and 1/4" shrink tubing.
Cut to length, stripped, tinned, crimped, soldered, and double heat shrinked. The other two lugs for the fat red wire are done with the same heat shrink sizes, so I won't bother to show those.
First I attach the fat red wire from the Hot Shot to the Aux side of the circuit breaker. The circuit breaker has a Battery side and an Aux. Aux side is silver, Battery side is copper.
Mockup for the last stretch of wire that will go from the circuit breaker Battery side (copper) directly to the positive battery terminal. Almost there!
Lots actually done in this step. Not only did I make the last wire, I also cleaned up all the lugs that were already connected with a wire brush, cleaned the battery terminal, and put on some of that protecting grease.
Finally I plug in the relay, tuck up all the wires, and replace the positive battery boot. Done!
The moment of truth. It started up instantaneously. Then I tried the bump start, which also worked.
Next up I will replace my ignition switch. It's probably original. I'm going to skip replacing the neutral safety switch because it's expensive, and I'm not going to have it for too much longer. The ignition, however, feels a bit loose, so a new switch will probably be nice.
2ndGenFlip
New member
Very nice and clean truck love those SSR wheels aint nothing like a classic Japanese wheel.
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