Hello, gents. New here w/a black/burgundy 1987 22RE auto.

[Griswald]

Hi Flagbasher,

if for any reason you want to sell your rear seat headrests (or even one), please PM me.

Lost one of mine, and have an ad up in the wanted section.

otherwise nice truck. Now take the top off:banana:

 

[flagbasher]

Thanks for the link on the headliner, that looks like a better option!

You have me thinking about a second shade of grey for the interior to break things up. I hadn't really thought about it before, I was planning on just using the medium pewter, but the more I think about it, I think it would probably look bland, kind of how it does now with everything the same shade of red...except where it's faded, lol.

Yeah, the red is pretty much monochromatic from what I can see.

The gray interior does medium gray from the floor to the top of the door panels/dash (probably the pewter and FoMoCo colors we have), then the roof is a slightly lighter shade (the specific Toyota color that they recently stopped making).

There's also another gray that's nearing white, which I believe was used in some of the DLX models with vinyl floors. Not entirely sure which color schemes use this color, but I've seen it online once in a while. I also mistakenly bought a sunroof cover in this color... which I guess would mean it's not necessarily a DLX thing? *shrug*

 

[flagbasher]

Hi Flagbasher,
if for any reason you want to sell your rear seat headrests (or even one), please PM me.

Lost one of mine, and have an ad up in the wanted section.

otherwise nice truck. Now take the top off:banana:

Actually, my rear seats never had headrests at all. They're an aftermarket build I think.

 

[flagbasher]

Got the speedometer cable hooked back up! :trophy:

I pulled the one from the auto so I could get the correct ratio. 19 tooth with a 6 tooth drive gear. 19:6 or 3.16666.

Then I pulled the VSS from the manual to see what the drive gear number was, so I could order the correct sleeve and gear for the manual for 30 inch tires in the future. I was basically going to get the same ratio with whatever drive gear was in there.

Then I realized the VSS I pulled from the 92 trans was the larger bore size and was the same as my existing auto. :wow2:

The gear on the VSS was 18:6 or 3. Same number of drive teeth, and the same bore size.

I took the sleeve and gear from the auto and plugged it right into the manual, hooked it up, and it worked. Strangely seems a bit closer to actual speed in the 0-45 range than it did with the auto. At "65" it's actually 68. Was having the same thing with my auto and the 32 inch tires.

So when I hop down to 30 inch tires, I guess I get to see if the 19:6 is on, or if the 18:6 is closer... assuming the gear shafts are the same when I pull them.

 

[flagbasher]

So, a little update.

I got the 4WD and reverse lights hooked back up.

I've read a million manual swap threads, but never saw a detailed explanation of how to hook these up, so here we go.

After some monkeying around with the 4WD switch on the auto trans, I figured out this blue plug has two sets of connections that go off when in 4WD. The blue and tan when in 4HI, and the green comes on when in 4LO.

I cut the plug off and used a wire nut to jumper the blue and tan wires. I plugged it into the harness in the engine compartment to test, turned the ignition on, and the 4WD light came on. These are the right pins!

Prepped for install to the harness. I left the green just in case.

This is where it gets a bit strange. These are the two round plugs from the NSS on the auto trans. The original 3 pin plug I cut off and spliced 2 of the 3 wires... the 3rd remaining red wire is actually one of the two reverse wires. That plug/pin is on the left. The other half of the reverse light equation is on the right.

Since that plug on the right isn't really used anymore (aside from the reverse light), I have 5 other pins I can steal from to complete the circuit with one plug instead of two.

This is a bit confusing since all of the wires involved are red, but I'm showing the extra NSS wire I had capped off when I got the truck running, and showing the red wire I just cut that I'm going to use to complete the reverse light circuit on the 6 pin plug.

And here I've connected it.

Here I've got the 6 pin plug I cut off from the auto trans harness, I've prepped the two wires I need (pink and gray), and touched them together to simulate being in reverse. Same test I did with the 4WD plug. Turn the ignition to ON, and the reverse lights came on. These are the right pins!

Luckily I tried to decipher the manual w56 harness before I put it in. I marked them with tape. The 4WD, reverse, and VSS wires were obvious. The other ones were not. But luckily, I don't need the unknown wires.

Sadly, the w56 harness was cut short, so I have to make an extension harness...

Here I've made an extension harness from the automatic trans wiring harness. I took the ~1ft length with the blue and white square plugs on them and cut it off. The harness had a channel, so I pulled out all of the unnecessary wires. I left the blue/tan for the 4WD plug, and put in a red/black to somewhat closely match the reverse wiring.

So much soldering, crimping, and shrink tubing prep here. Like my starter setup, all of those crimps are crimped on tinned wires and then are filled with solder after they are crimped.

I plugged the blue 4WD light plug and round 6 pin reverse light plug in near the engine, and fed the prepped ends down near the starter and clutch release fork.

Then I crimped each wire where it should go, filled the splice with solder, then put shrink tubing over everything. This really is a nightmare on your back on a creeper.

I was actually able to jam all of those splices, and extra VSS and unknown wires into the harnesses, overlap the coverings, and cable tie them. Tough, but doable. I cable tied the extra length up onto yet another unknown plug from the new trans that I don't seem to need.

And the moment of truth!

This is a nice little triumph. I tried swapping my cluster for a manual cluster from a V6 before this, and let's say it didn't go as well and I had to swap it all back. :rain:

I've got a 22re manual cluster on the way now. Then that ECT light can go away forever and we can pretend the automatic never existed.

 

[flagbasher]

I also read that the two black NSS wires that I jumpered need to be connected to the clutch start switch and the clutch cancel switch in order for my cruise control to work again.

To start, my computer needs to think I'm in neutral or park. To cruise, my computer needs to think I'm NOT in neutral or park.

So I guess that's another project to research. :typing:

I also had my shop do a new metal radiator (CSF brand), new front tie rods (AC Delco), rear pinion seal, and an oil change.

My inner passenger tie rod had developed a TON of slop and was vibrating like crazy. I had to steer way to the right to go straight. Now it feels great.

 

[flagbasher]

So, I started the swap back to the chrome rear bumper.

Months ago I found a really nice rechromed bumper on eBay. Tracking down the brackets was a real pain.

Started with cleaning and painting the bumper brackets.

I also got the mud flap brackets, cladding brackets, and the brackets for the front bumper and valance which I will put in later. I've got a repro front valance, and nowhere to hang it from yet.

Getting the rear bumper off was a pain. Those front tubes were bolted to mounts welded to the frame. They were really tight and I had to hammer them out.

The main brackets, after having ALL bolts removed, wouldn't come out, and I couldn't just slide the bumper out. I had to pound out the brackets from the bottom up with a hammer most of the way, and I had to jump on it to get them to break free. The thing was probably 150lb too. Really heavy.

So I got the bumper brackets in and bumper on.

I've got the mud flap brackets on now with stainless hardware (not pictured), but I've got to fabricate some brackets for the plastic side cladding and corner bit. That's going to be fun I'm sure. I'll probably use some aluminum stock and pop rivets. Not like they're meant to hold any weight anyway.

The exhaust is also in the way of where the plastic cladding would go. The exhaust has a big hole in it and needs to be replaced anyway, so I bought a replacement and I'll take it to a shop along with the cladding so they can get the height right.

Then I'll repaint the side cladding with some SEM Trim Black and put them on.

Then I'll have to wait for some rear bumper corners to pop up on eBay. Those will probably be hard to find.

I also plan to get a Curt hitch for the truck. The rear bumper area is where the frame has the most rust forming. Nothing too bad, but I should probably go underneath and hit it with a wire wheel and POR 15 before installing a hitch. I don't want that rust to get any worse.

Most of what's on the ground under the truck is dirt. Probably a bit of rust from the bolts and mounting points. Lots of crud dropped out though. Gross.

 

[flagbasher]

Lots of little updates.

Went camping with the truck for the first time.

I started to do a full LED swap. While doing so, I painted the aftermarket clear turn signal lens red on top and used a red LED for my top turn signal. 3 coats of VHT Nite-Shades red tail light paint to go from clear to red. I also put 1 coat on the red bottom section to even them out and match the color. I used a Duplicolor clear over them. They look great, but I need to get an electronic flasher unit, since my lights are flashing quickly now.

Before.

After.

All of the exterior bulbs are swapped to LED now, except for the headlights and front turn signals. I just need to swap out the front turn signals in the bumper for LEDs, and I'll probably swap in the clear lenses, too.

I used the warm white for everything white. Looks super bright without being that odd cold blue you get with some LEDs.

I also swapped my orange corner lights in the front for clear lenses with the amber LED.

I swapped the AC panel light and clinometer bulbs for LEDs. I'm going to wait to get my manual cluster in and do any harness re-pinning before I plug in the cluster LEDs. For now, it serves as a reminder of how much clearer and brighter it's going to be when it's done. This is fully bright. You can see how dim the cluster is by comparison. The rheostat will dim the LEDs, but even at their dimmest, they're still pretty bright.

I also swapped the dome light (WAY BRIGHTER), courtesy lights in the doors (I don't like them, might swap a red lens/light later).

I'll get to the glovebox light and cluster as I tear into the truck more.

I fabricated my bumper cladding bracket out of 1/8" aluminum stock and pop rivets. They're sturdier than I thought they would be. This one is still out hanging until I get the tail pipe replaced and moved back to the correct location. The driver side cladding just won't fit here yet.

Under shot from the passenger side. 3 rivets through the pinch weld. I'll end up fabricating the inner ones and corners later... once I find corners and am ready to finalize.

Looks better. I will end up refinishing these with SEM Trim Black, too.

I finally got a decent set of power mirrors. My old one is on the left, new and painted with SEM Trim Black on the right. The pictures don't do the difference justice. The old ones are broken, flaky, sun-baked.

On the truck. I finally have a bottom cover again, too. I even taped up the mirror and painted the tiny little bezel around it. It makes a difference. The driver side mirror needs one of the internal tabs rebuilt so it will hang right. I'll do that, paint it, then pop the bottom cover back on. Right now it's just hanging there on one tab... floppy.

Started more prep for my gray dash swap. This part was originally gray, but it was dirty as hell. I took it apart, cleaned it, SEM soap, SEM Sand Free prep, and SEM 17013 Zuea Midnight Black for the dark gray, and SEM Trim Black for the black. The Zuea Midnight Black is very close to the original Toyota dark gray. A tiny bit darker. Unless it's on the same texture, on the same angle, in the same light, right next to an original piece, you can't tell.

You MUST use the Sand Free on ABS plastic before using SEMs Classic Coat line (the Zuea Black for the gray). The Trim Black, however, doesn't need it. Different formulation.

Here's the dash cap I'm starting with. I had entertained the idea of filling the cracks with SEM products, using their graining pads, then painting it... but I hit it with acetone to get the black down to gray, realized it was brown, and I just went with a hard ABS cap instead. It's on now, and I need to do the Sand Free and Zuea Black. Probably after drilling out the holes for the clinometer and test fitting it. The cap fit on really well. I've painted all of the vents with the Zuea Black, too. I also painted the visible parts of the gray dash frame, and the glove box. They look awesome!

I also went a bit JDM nerd and bought this beat up, shoddilly restored Tom's racing wheel on eBay. I want to say it was 60 bucks. In good condition, these are $300-500.

When I got it, the rim was black, but it was a really crappy job. I took it down to the leather and this white filler. This is about as smooth as a base as I'm going to get without removing the leather and cutting new leather from a pattern.

Here you can tell it was anodized black and faded horribly.

A combination of SEM Plastic/Leather prep and black color Classic Coat for the leather, and SEM Trim Black for the center metal section. I got two horn buttons. One JDM style "TEQ" button ("To-yo-ta" which you'll see stamped on some parts), one "TOYOTA". I ended up putting in the red "TOYOTA" horn for now.

Some of the leather on the back was coming up. I used contact cement to get it back down, and xylene for cleanup.

There were actually a couple of imperfections in this picture. I wet sanded the metal part in a few places and did a few more coats of Trim Black.

I used an NR-G hub, which actually didn't fit very well in the end. I had to grind out holes for the signal cancel tabs, and I had to go in with a razor blade and remove some plastic around the horn contact rotary ring so it would contact.

I didn't want it to say NR-G, so I sanded it off, and painted it in Trim Black.

I also got some cheapie hub extension to make it fit (forget the brand), since I didn't want some dumb NR-G quick disconnect nonsense. Painted them both in Trim Black.

Installed! I love it. Seems slightly smaller diameter, but fatter.

A keen eye will notice I swapped my seats for gray ones. They are in way better condition than the red ones were, and are the correct style for the truck. I have gray headrests on the way.

I also ordered gray carpet from Stock Interiors, as well as sticky sound/heat mat stuff to cut down on the clunkiness and noise.

Now the only gray parts I'm missing are rear seats, and possibly a headliner for the fiberglass cap... which I don't really want to convert over right now anyway, since I will probably never use it again.

Next up, finishing the LED swap/cluster, gray swap, and new stereo with an under-seat subwoofer!

 

[joeynational]

looks awesome, nice work!

I'm really interested to see how your dash cap comes out. My dash is cracked to hell and thought about repairing it also. How does the fit and finish look? Can you really tell there is another piece on it? Where did you get it?

 

[flagbasher]

looks awesome, nice work!

I'm really interested to see how your dash cap comes out. My dash is cracked to hell and thought about repairing it also. How does the fit and finish look? Can you really tell there is another piece on it? Where did you get it?

The texture is about the same. The depression on the top of the dash isn't as crisp, but it seems nice overall.

One thing I noticed is that I have to trim the bottom of my clinometer cover so the front of it will sit on the dash cap correctly. We'll see how that goes. Basically the layering distorts some of the proportions. Could also be that my clinometer cover is from the later dash type with the short pocket.

If the vents go in well and it holds the paint like it should, it should be good to go.

I might paint it tomorrow.

I got it from Stock Interiors. The cap is made by Accu Form I think.

http://www.stockinteriors.com/items...15&MainCatId=11&Desc=Toyota_4Runner_Dashboard

 

[flagbasher]

Made this interesting discovery today.

The SR5 has a cigarette lighter with a lit green ring so you can see it. The bulb on mine was always dead. I took it off to transfer it to the new black radio bezel and I noticed a little black tube that went up from the cigarette lighter bulb area (red and green wire go to the bulb). The black tube goes up and slightly back away from the bulb.

I wondered what it was.

Then I went to transfer my ash tray frame to the gray dash and wondered why it had a wire attached to the top of it.

Then I realized it was a damn fiber optic cable.

The bulb in the lighter lights up the green plastic, then sends some of the white light up that black tube, into the fiber optic, and into the top of the ash tray frame so your ash tray is lit up.

What?!

Not a thing I expected to see on an 87 Toyota. When I replace that bulb with an LED, it should be really bright.

 

[rustED_]

Your steering wheel turned out awesome! Nice attention to detail on your build! I'm looking forward to seeing how your vents turn out after painting, I contemplated buying used grey one so I wouldn't have to paint mine. I need a dash cap as well going to be watching your thread closely as you are doing everything I need to do down the road, keep up the good work!

 

[joeynational]

The texture is about the same. The depression on the top of the dash isn't as crisp, but it seems nice overall.

One thing I noticed is that I have to trim the bottom of my clinometer cover so the front of it will sit on the dash cap correctly. We'll see how that goes. Basically the layering distorts some of the proportions. Could also be that my clinometer cover is from the later dash type with the short pocket.

If the vents go in well and it holds the paint like it should, it should be good to go.

I might paint it tomorrow.

I got it from Stock Interiors. The cap is made by Accu Form I think.

New Toyota 4Runner Dash Covers

thanks for the info, can't wait to see how it turns out. Gotta get me one of those ash tray/cig lighter deals!!

 

[flagbasher]

Gotta get me one of those ash tray/cig lighter deals!!

There's one of the lighters on eBay now. Could ask him if he has the tray to go along with it!

Toyota Pickup Black Radio Surround Dash Bezel Cig Lighter Antenna 4Runner 84 89 | eBay

 

[89FourRunner]

Wow that is some work, great job on the plastic side skirt mounts that worked very well. Could you provide the part numbers for those hreen bulbs in the inclinometer? That thing must be bright, csn you snap a night pic?

 

[RAD4Runner]

Nice job!

Would also like to see how the dash cap looks like.

Lots of little updates......, but I need to get an electronic flasher unit, since my lights are flashing quickly now.

There's a mod for the stock flasher so it will work with the LED's here.
If you try it pls let us know how it works.

...Next up, finishing the LED swap/cluster, gray swap, and new stereo with an under-seat subwoofer!

Looking forward to seeing the under-seat sub because I'm considering getting one.

 

[Cali 4runner]

Where did you find power mirrors???! Those are like unicorns haha

 

[flagbasher]

Wow that is some work, great job on the plastic side skirt mounts that worked very well. Could you provide the part numbers for those hreen bulbs in the inclinometer? That thing must be bright, csn you snap a night pic?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-lan/3305/

They are bright. The rheostat will dim it to a reasonable level for driving though.

I've driven it at dusk fully bright. Never driven in pitch black just yet.

 

[flagbasher]

Nice job!
Would also like to see how the dash cap looks like.

It looks great, but I was dumb and didn't check the vent fit first. I should have trimmed the vent holes on the cap first. Now I have to do it and touch it up.

There's a mod for the stock flasher so it will work with the LED's here.
If you try it pls let us know how it works.

I've got a different flasher. Apparently the one I have has a metal ring you need to shave some off, check, shave some off, check... until the flashing is just right. I'd rather just buy an electronic flasher and be done with it.

Looking forward to seeing the under-seat sub because I'm considering getting one.

TS-WH500A - 8 ¼" HVT Sealed Active Subwoofer | Pioneer Electronics USA

This is the one I got. It MIGHT just fit under there, but more likely I'll have to put some spacers under the rear seat mounts so it will clear nicely.

Pioneer also makes a version for Japan under the Carrozzeria brand that's about 1.5cm thinner... but getting one here is like $400 or so. I think that one is model TS-WH1000A.

 

[flagbasher]

Where did you find power mirrors???! Those are like unicorns haha

Well, the truck came with one set. Both sides had tabs on the interior mirror structure broken so they were floppy. The passenger side wasn't put together correctly, and the housing was cracked and a big chip had fallen out. Only the driver side had the wire cover.

Then I saw a set of turbo doors on craigslist with power mirrors for $100. I rushed to buy them. I think that one had the passenger wire cover, but the housing was cracked and chipped in the exact same way. My guess is trying to fold old brittle mirrors against a folding mechanism that hadn't been lubricated in decades.

Then I bought a third set on eBay that had the passenger housing in good condition.

I have 3 sets, and every single set had at least one broken mounting tab for the internal mirror.

Now I have to rebuild one of the tabs for the driver side mirror I want to use, then put it together and hope I never have to take it apart ever again.