Hello, I have a misfire in cylinders 3 and 4

I had a similar problem several years ago. Cylinder 3 misfire. For me it ended up being the injector. I replaced it with a remand unit and have been good since
 
Ok so I got my cables for my truck, toyota genuine parts. And I have a brand new Denso coil pack ($60), I haven't opened it yet because I think I can send it back, possibly get a fuel injector. I replaced my cables and cleared my fault codes. Oh my gosh what a difference in performance. Took on the freeway and up a long steep hill, I'd get a couple blinks half away up the incline and once I reached the peak the CEL would turn off. I was getting a misfire on number 4 but the ecu isn't picking it up, and my app goes back and fourth to P0300 but it doesn't stick, and a P0304 and also doesn't stick. My CEL blinks but never goes solid, I run my program while it's blinking and it says no codes logged. I have a pending P0304, it goes away tho. So my question, do I save my coil pack to return for a fuel injector? Or should I plug in the new coil pack and see what happens. I can't return the coil pack once I open it.
 
I can drive it now, it runs really smooth, I have power. It just chokes a tinyyy bit when I'm going up a hill. It smooths out when I take it out of overdrive on the hill. And a slight vibration when idling. My roommate thinks I have a air bubble in my coolant line causing the misfire. It was really low. Not low enough to cause it to over heat. I filled it up since. Any thoughts? And no, no coolant leaks since I filled it back. Or any dried residue on the exhaust tail.
 
i had the same problem. Changed the coils, plugs and wires. Nothing changed turned out to be my #3 injectors. replaced all 3 that side and is now running perfect. 300k miles and still runs like brand new
 
So I am about to change out my fuel injector on my number 4 side. I checked the resistance on all of them, ( I have the plenum and lower Plenum off, I'm about to undo the fuel rail) , they all read about 16ohm, even on the number 4 side. Should I swap out the plug and see if the problem persists? I've read faulty injectors will read way above 16ohms.
 
My o ring plastic part at the end of my fuel injectors broke off in the injection port. I'm stuck...
 
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The o-ring stuck in cylinder one just dropped into its cavity. Is that the cylinder? Do I have to remove my head now?? O.o
 
The o-ring stuck in cylinder one just dropped into its cavity. Is that the cylinder? Do I have to remove my head now?? O.o

No, it's the intake, if the valve was open on that cylinder it may have gone all the way. Remove the intake manifold and hopefully it comes up with it, if not look down into the intake runner on the head, if the valve is closed you are golden.

:couch2:
 
This is what fell into the cavity of the fuel injector port, the intake manifold is already off, I was able to take out the piece in the number 4 cylinder without it falling in.
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This is where it snapped on the number one fuel injector
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The piece from the first 2 pics is what fell into whatever is below the number 1 fuel injector, I don't know this engine that well, I don't know if it fell in the cylinder or on the valves. Would I have to take off the valve cover to find out?
 
You don't have the intake manifold off, you have the runners off, the manifold is still bolted in!
Ooh ok, I thought everyone was calling the runners the intake >_< whoops lol anyway I fished it out through the intake, it was resting on the closed valve, I'm soooo freaking happy, check it out lol
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Anyone know the torque specs on the fuel rail banjo bolt? I found a union bolt spec for 25 ft lbs, and a flare bolt for 18 ft lbs on the specs in this forum, I'm not sure which one and they are a big difference.
 
And thank you Durk, i saved that PDF file, i feel it will come in handy on day ^_^

I have everything put back together, went to go turn it over and nothing, engine almost acted like it was seized for about 10min, I left the key turned over and the engine finally rotated and started turning over and it does not want to idle or even really start. As soon as it gets to a point where it should start and run on its own it shuts right back to turning over, the battery was on a charger, battery kept on loosing juice from me turning it over so much, so I jumped it using another truck instead of a battery charger and it started running for a second, I had to keep it up around 2- 2.5k rpm, as soon as I let my foot off the gas it died and now it'll just turn over. I left it on a deep cycle last night and same thing, turns over really nice wanted to start but just doesn't quite make it. I don't know where to start... battery? Fuel pressure? I didn't mess with any sensors and it was running before I took out my injector >.<
 
Back to basics. Spark, fuel, compression, timing. First I would be sure you connected all electric connectors, tightened all grounds (like the one by the diagnostic connector, that'll no start you real fast) and got all the vac hoses back . Pull a plug, ground to engine, crank, see if you have spark. Then check fuel pressure.
 
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I was looking at the o ring injector kit from O'Reilly and I couldn't figure out where the square o-ring went on the injector, I didn't notice any from the ones I pulled out of my engine

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Then I noticed the differences between the one on the far left and the two right ones. They don't have the square o-ring rings like the new one does. They didnt come out with the injectors and i didnt find any orings laying around when i cleaned up. I'm pretty sure those square o-rings are still in the fuel rail with the 2 new injectors I replaced.It's not making a seal, and I smell gas after I try turning it over.

I'm getting a ride to where my truck is garaged in an hour or so, I'm going to start there.
 

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