Hello

[The Cold War Kid]

Yeah, I saw the new users forum. Here are the people I want to meet - not all of the many generations.

I bought a '01 SR5 with 208K. Amazing thing is, no rust - I mean NONE - anywhere on the truck! It's not perfect - worst thing about it is, it's black - REALLY black... yuck. And dangerous, too. No visibility and all...

A girl I knew had one of these trucks a lonnnng time ago. It may have been a gen 2. I loved it. Too bad about her :boom:

So now I have one and I'm gonna fix it up.

Major thing about it is, seems never to have had the valves done. They just click away... lol. This is one of the things it would be impractical for me to do 'cause, by the time I bought all new valve shims, I could easily pay somebody that already has a good selection of used ones.

I'd like to find somebody - in the central US - that would like to do this for me and won't rip me off or charge me a zillion $. Maybe the timing belt/water pump too... maybe a total rebuild? Trans is perfect...

I could make an appointment. Show up early Saturday morning...

Any suggestions? 'preciate it :biggrin1:

 

[Haybale]

Can’t help you in that area but welcome aboard

 

[The Cold War Kid]

can’t help you in that area but welcome aboard

 

[Brian.]

Major thing about it is, seems never to have had the valves done. They just click away... lol. This is one of the things it would be impractical for me to do 'cause, by the time I bought all new valve shims, I could easily pay somebody that already has a good selection of used ones.

You probably won't have to buy 32 shims. Even in the worst cases I've seen, only about 8 shims needed to be replaced, the rest could change places (yup, swap a shim from one spot to another). But even so, if you needed EVERY shim, that's only ~$400, and you're not going to find anyone, anywhere, who's willing to do that job for that cost while using their own supplies without charging you. It's still going to be 1/2~1/3 as much total cost to DIY. In looking at doing this very thing for my own truck, the overwhelming concensus posted in old threads here talk about walking into the Toyota dealership with the shims you can't use and ask after used shims they have on hand that are the size you can use. You're still going to pay a little "convenience" fee, but not new pricing (I'm fine with used shims, been going that route for decades with motorcycles that are WAY more high-strung than this 5vzfe lump).

 

[19963.4lsr5]

My Toyota dealer didn’t have any shims in stock. Their parts room looked like the room you get printer paper and toner from. Not auto parts.

I bought the service tools to change the shims without pulling the cams.

This job is a lot of work. And you need to have your head screwed on strait while doing this.

I start out by making a drawing of each head with its valves and using a feeler gauge and getting the clearance measurements and write them above each valve.

Then I remove the shims and measure their thickness and write that measurement in the circle I use to represent each valve.

Next is figuring out what shims are needed and write that new shim number under each valve.

Then I look at what I got available and buy the rest.

Every shim I’ve ever bought was a 3.0mm or above. The shims you pull out of the factory heads I’ve encountered range from 2.8mm to 2.98mm


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[sleepydad]

Yeah, I saw the new users forum. Here are the people I want to meet - not all of the many generations.

I bought a '01 SR5 with 208K. Amazing thing is, no rust - I mean NONE - anywhere on the truck! It's not perfect - worst thing about it is, it's black - REALLY black... yuck. And dangerous, too. No visibility and all...

A girl I knew had one of these trucks a lonnnng time ago. It may have been a gen 2. I loved it. Too bad about her :boom:

So now I have one and I'm gonna fix it up.

Major thing about it is, seems never to have had the valves done. They just click away... lol. This is one of the things it would be impractical for me to do 'cause, by the time I bought all new valve shims, I could easily pay somebody that already has a good selection of used ones.

I'd like to find somebody - in the central US - that would like to do this for me and won't rip me off or charge me a zillion $. Maybe the timing belt/water pump too... maybe a total rebuild? Trans is perfect...

I could make an appointment. Show up early Saturday morning...

Any suggestions? 'preciate it :biggrin1:

I'm not saying the place you seek does not exist. however I think your going to be hard pressed to find a shop who can service your truck for you on a Saturday while you wait and adjust all the valves. it seems like a long shot to me?

I think you have a some options depending on how much you want to spend.

#1 just learn to love that clicky clack and drive on.
#2 get 2 new pre-adjusted heads from yota shop, LCE performance, Odessa Cylinder Head, headsonly, ... lots of places out there. Then have somebody swap heads for you.
#3 swap out that engine with a re-man fully dressed long block with all new heads on it?

I have been driving around on a 5vz since 1998 and they do have a bit of tippy tappy.

 

[brillo_76]

That is the only thing I miss from the old Toyota engines. The 22R of the early 80s had adjust nuts and you could easily adjust your own valves with a screw driver and I think a 12mm wrench. Once you took the valve pan cover off. I certainly, don't miss the lack of power in the 4wd as the pre efi trucks were just too heavy for a 4 cylinder engine. :/ { sorry just remembering how easy the adjustments were }

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I forgot to add to my post.

The valves are adjusted cold. So you will not be driving to a shop or someone’s place and wait while the valve adjustment is done.


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[MStudt]

Where is this mysterious central US place you speak of?

Mike

 

[The Cold War Kid]

I'm not saying the place you seek does not exist. however I think your going to be hard pressed to find a shop who can service your truck for you on a Saturday while you wait and adjust all the valves. it seems like a long shot to me?

I think you have a some options depending on how much you want to spend.

#1 just learn to love that clicky clack and drive on.
#2 get 2 new pre-adjusted heads from yota shop, LCE performance, Odessa Cylinder Head, headsonly, ... lots of places out there. Then have somebody swap heads for you.
#3 swap out that engine with a re-man fully dressed long block with all new heads on it?

I have been driving around on a 5vz since 1998 and they do have a bit of tippy tappy.

#s 2 and 3 appeal to me. However, there is this sleaze-bag thing. People ream valve guides WAY out then press in bronze "sleeves." Works long enough to get past the warranty - barely. Then guess what. And there's no way to be sure what you buy doesn't have that.

I'm just new into this truck. I'm doing as little as I can to it before I get the title (bought from dealer). Looks like it might use a lot of oil but too soon to tell, really. If so I will put some brake fluid in the oil and stop most, if not all of it.

208K miles is a lot. Motor runs great and gets 18 mpg (all in town driving, 5 mile trips to work and back). Surprisingly peppy.

I hope you guys hang with me as I embark on this journey :yo:

 

[sleepydad]

#s 2 and 3 appeal to me. However, there is this sleaze-bag thing. People ream valve guides WAY out then press in bronze "sleeves." Works long enough to get past the warranty - barely. Then guess what. And there's no way to be sure what you buy doesn't have that.

I'm just new into this truck. I'm doing as little as I can to it before I get the title (bought from dealer). Looks like it might use a lot of oil but too soon to tell, really. If so I will put some brake fluid in the oil and stop most, if not all of it.

208K miles is a lot. Motor runs great and gets 18 mpg (all in town driving, 5 mile trips to work and back). Surprisingly peppy.

I hope you guys hang with me as I embark on this journey :yo:

I'm not an engine expert and I have destroyed a couple of them so I know what not to do. But I have done a couple of engine swaps and I'm wrapping up a frame up restore on a 97 truck. so I have put them together piece by piece now.

one thing I can tell you about most 5vz's is they wear well. Everything mechanical wears out. if you take care of that engine it will last 400K miles. even if it uses a bit of oil I would just run good quality mobile 1 5w30 synthetic and it will keep ticking away.

I know a couple of guys who are always taking their engines apart, LS guys. one day I told one of them "the difference between you and me is I don't want to take my engine apart, I just want to drive it" just kind of depends I guess. he just wants to know everything is in tip top shape and that gives him piece of mind. he is chasing 500-600 HP and driving to car shows. so that is his deal.

my 2 cents will be leave that baby alone and let it run.

 

[3bears]

Yeah, I saw the new users forum. Here are the people I want to meet - not all of the many generations.

I bought a '01 SR5 with 208K. Amazing thing is, no rust - I mean NONE - anywhere on the truck! It's not perfect - worst thing about it is, it's black - REALLY black... yuck. And dangerous, too. No visibility and all...

A girl I knew had one of these trucks a lonnnng time ago. It may have been a gen 2. I loved it. Too bad about her :boom:

So now I have one and I'm gonna fix it up.

Major thing about it is, seems never to have had the valves done. They just click away... lol. This is one of the things it would be impractical for me to do 'cause, by the time I bought all new valve shims, I could easily pay somebody that already has a good selection of used ones.

I'd like to find somebody - in the central US - that would like to do this for me and won't rip me off or charge me a zillion $. Maybe the timing belt/water pump too... maybe a total rebuild? Trans is perfect...

I could make an appointment. Show up early Saturday morning...

Any suggestions? 'preciate it :biggrin1:

I wonder how many people have actually adjusted the valves in these engines. or paid someone to do it. Im sitting at 220k and still would not even think of doing it. Ive heard noisy valve lash, and not on this rig.
that might be an interesting thread......how many people have their valves adjusted on these engines

 

[The Cold War Kid]

I'm not an engine expert and I have destroyed a couple of them so I know what not to do. But I have done a couple of engine swaps and I'm wrapping up a frame up restore on a 97 truck. so I have put them together piece by piece now.

one thing I can tell you about most 5vz's is they wear well. Everything mechanical wears out. if you take care of that engine it will last 400K miles. even if it uses a bit of oil I would just run good quality mobile 1 5w30 synthetic and it will keep ticking away.

I know a couple of guys who are always taking their engines apart, LS guys. one day I told one of them "the difference between you and me is I don't want to take my engine apart, I just want to drive it" just kind of depends I guess. he just wants to know everything is in tip top shape and that gives him piece of mind. he is chasing 500-600 HP and driving to car shows. so that is his deal.

my 2 cents will be leave that baby alone and let it run.

The motor is sweet. I have only talked about problems. I'm like that - concentrate on what needs to get done.

HOWEVER, this truck is a mighty fine ride! Here winters have been mild for several years. It's been 20 years since a bad one. I don't know when but I am going to have the truck washed underneath with steam, then take it to ziebart. I'd like to die owning this truck. I'm 70 the 1st of Oct.

The valves clicking could be a symptom of the top end overheating. I bought a PCV valve for it on Tuesday. Looks like maybe it was never changed. I doubt that's even possible! STILL haven't had a chance to put it in. My boss is a slave-driving son of a... But I take home a grand, most weeks.

I think the clear coat started peeling from the hood then some dumb a** messed the paint up trying to fix it. I see wires that look like it had a sub in the rear area. It would be interesting to know it's history.

Be all that as it may, this truck is as close to a "pristine" 4runner as I will ever find and I am amazed that I could actually afford it. As you are no doubt aware, these things are NOT cheap! And the age seems not to matter, at all. This one is all there, seems never to have been wrecked and the major components work perfectly.

Now I will just do the little stuff it needs.

 

[plcfcng]

Here is something to consider if the valves are that far out your most likely going to be inline for a head gasket in another 20 or 30 thousand miles. You could go ahead and just do it now and have the heads redone at a machine shop. they will set valve lash. The other thing you could try to quite the valves is increase your oil weight and see if that helps.
:boom:

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I wonder how many people have actually adjusted the valves in these engines. or paid someone to do it. Im sitting at 220k and still would not even think of doing it. Ive heard noisy valve lash, and not on this rig.

that might be an interesting thread......how many people have their valves adjusted on these engines

I’ve done three On three separate engines.

The 96 engine I pulled when it go totaled and I installed it in my 97 SR5 project when it had around 240,000 miles on it.

The 97 limited Puppy Hauler when It blew a head gasket at 140,000 miles. I pulled the heads and had them rebuilt.

My 97 SR5 project when the 96 engine had a cylinder liner erode through and became junk. So the 97 engine with 258,000 miles got a total rebuild.

For the Puppy Hauler as well as the 96 engine with 100,000 more miles they both only required some exhaust valves to be shimmed. I bought some 3.0’s, 3.05’s, and some 3.10’s from the dealer.

7.50 each and had what I needed the next day every time I did it. I now have half a ziplock sandwich bag full of shims ranging from 2.8 to 2.98mm I’ll probably never use.





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