Help. 3RZ problems...
- Thread starter toyotsurf
- Start date
Reading the flash codes is pretty easy. you just need a paperclip or a piece of wire and go into the Toyota diagnostic socket. Bridge pins E1 to TE1 and turn ignition on . The CEL light will blink . Eg 2 long blinks followed by 4 short blinks or flashes tells you you have a CEL code 24.
My 3RZ thrives again. It only cost just shy of $1,500. :wow2:
Short version: new injectors and O2 sensors solved my problem.
Long version: They replaced my aftermarket plugs and wires even though they didn't need it since I had just replaced them. Apparently Toyota is very proud of their plug wires. Insisting the brand new Autolite wires failed their test. They insisted they had to do this before further testings. They tried swapping in a borrowed MAF to no avail. Then they were certain it was the fuel injectors so new fuel injectors. They said this greatly helped but it still stumbled. I don't know if I believe them. God knows what else they tried and didn't tell me. Then they replaced my cheap ass aftermarket oxygen sensors, I had just replaced the the originals trying to track down this problem. I have a suspicion that the O2 sensors were the root cause and the injectors probably weren't in the best shape contributing to the issue.
Short version: new injectors and O2 sensors solved my problem.
Long version: They replaced my aftermarket plugs and wires even though they didn't need it since I had just replaced them. Apparently Toyota is very proud of their plug wires. Insisting the brand new Autolite wires failed their test. They insisted they had to do this before further testings. They tried swapping in a borrowed MAF to no avail. Then they were certain it was the fuel injectors so new fuel injectors. They said this greatly helped but it still stumbled. I don't know if I believe them. God knows what else they tried and didn't tell me. Then they replaced my cheap ass aftermarket oxygen sensors, I had just replaced the the originals trying to track down this problem. I have a suspicion that the O2 sensors were the root cause and the injectors probably weren't in the best shape contributing to the issue.
Wow.
My O2 sensor is original to the car. Maybe I should think of replacing it. I travelled a 70 mile round trip to a '40s wartime show today and I was exhausted after fighting with her in the traffic.
How much was the O2 sensor from the Toyota, I think it may be my next port of call.
I am really pleased for you. It will be lovely to drive her now.
My O2 sensor is original to the car. Maybe I should think of replacing it. I travelled a 70 mile round trip to a '40s wartime show today and I was exhausted after fighting with her in the traffic.
How much was the O2 sensor from the Toyota, I think it may be my next port of call.
I am really pleased for you. It will be lovely to drive her now.
A couple years ago I was getting random intermittent O2 error codes. I found a pair of cheap aftermarket O2 sensors for $60. I would still get random errors every now and then. I didn't think the O2 sensors were bad because they seemed to work. Anyway for the new sensors the dealer charged me about $150 for one and $100 for the other. I would guess you could buy OEM sensors online for much cheaper.
jeremyc74
Banned
There are a lot of people here who've had issues with aftermarket O2 sensors. The only ones that seem to cooperate with the Toyota ECU are the Denso ones they used as original equipment. You can pick those up for about half the cost at the dealership (or less depending on the model), and it's the exact same thing.
Looking at rockauto.com it shows Denso part#2344162 for both upstream and downstream on 2WD 4runners and Denso part#2344154 for downstream on 4wd. After further looking at Densoautoparts.com As long as you don't have a California emissions which I'm pretty sure the Surf probably doesn't have you would need two of #2344162. for your truck unless it is 4wd then you need #2344154 for your downstream sensor. On denso's web page they also list part numbers for "universal" mount O2 sensors which I think is what you would use if you have a non-factory exhaust with a threaded bung (instead of the OE flange mount) for the O2 sensor.
FYI even though my 4runner ran like a brand new truck after the 02 sensors I did get a couple random error codes after they were installed. I think they were all about the cat being defective. I just ignored and then cleared the codes. I'm guessing it was the computer adjusting to having O2 sensors that worked right. These errors stopped after a tank of gas or two.
Mc1337sauce
New member
3RZ does have a bit of a sensitive knock sensor, commonly swapped out for something else when turbocharging...too much knock kills them rather quickly. Most common is to install a GM knock sensor, but you will need to run a die over it so it will thread into the block. More info on CustomTacos. This could be your issue, though I would venture to guess that you may have an underlying issue causing knock (and thereby killing the sensor) if this is indeed the culprit, unless you have a ton of miles on the vehicle.
eurasiaoverland
Member
Hi Richard
I'm reading this very keenly, I am also UK based. Just under two weeks ago I bought a 96 3rd gen with the 3RZ and a manual gearbox, very happy to have finally found such a rare truck, but it's not perfect.
I don't have a CEL on, but the car hesitates at around 1500 - 2000 rpm and has an unsteady idle, though above 2000 rpm it is nice and smooth, and the fuel consumption does not seem too bad. I feel like the engine has more to give however.
I'm going to do an engine rebuild on it for peace of mind, and am starting to worry about all these damn sensors that petrol engines seem to have (I'm a big diesel fan and have never touched a petrol engine before). I'll be putting in new plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor, and will clean the throttle body and MAF. I'd also like to test the O2, throttle-position and knock sensors, and the engine coolant and air intake temperature sensors.
US market vehicles seem to have two O2 sensors, but the JDM has only one, in the engine bay somewhere, which is easy to swap out and relatively cheap. The one at the back of the cat is an exhaust gas temperature sensor (exclusive to JDM vehicles of the 1990s) which I cannot find for sale anywhere and has a list price of over $500, so I hope it works! It looks damn rusty down there too, and I'd be a bit scared to try to get it out. Have you touched either of these? The consunsus is that al these EGT probes do is warn you via a dashboard light that the cat is over temperature. I need new centre and rear exhausts too, which is going to cost...
The car may have an overheating problem, though the leaking radiator cap which is now replaced may have been the cause. In case the worst comes to the worst, would you be able to share where you got the cylinder head from? Was it a genuine Toyota part? I'm hoping mine will be OK with a skim and some new valves, possible guides and seats. What was the problem with yours?
Can I ask why you are taking the starter out?? With engine hot, my starter barely turns it over, whereas it cranks quite happily when cold. It might be a crappy battery, but somehow this goes against common sense, so I suspect that something else must be happening. I'll pull my starter while the engine is stripped down to replace the brushes and make sure the copper contacts on the switch are not pitted.
Another job will be to take out the LPG system that the car came with,
I just had a search for a knock-sensor and turned these up in the US:
Claims to be OEM but not sure:
*NEW* Toyota Lexus Engine Detonation Knock Sensor 89615-50010 *FREE SHIP* | eBay
Definitely OEM and a popular purchase:
OE DENSO TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR OE 89615-50010 A GENUINE DENSO PART | eBay
I'd be really grateful if you could share or point me in the direction of any good resources for the JDM 3RZ-FE Hilux Surf; FSM, fault codes etc etc as this is all new to me!
The ultimate aim for this truck is to build an extreme-cold weather overlander (hence not getting a diesel, I also don't like the 1KZs reputation for cracking heads and the 1KD has common rail electronic injection which is a no-go for countries with questionable fuel), so I need it to be bullet-proof reliable. I got the car very cheap so I'm happy to throw some money at it to get it really good.
Good luck fixing your Surf, you're almost there it seems!
Daniel
I'm reading this very keenly, I am also UK based. Just under two weeks ago I bought a 96 3rd gen with the 3RZ and a manual gearbox, very happy to have finally found such a rare truck, but it's not perfect.
I don't have a CEL on, but the car hesitates at around 1500 - 2000 rpm and has an unsteady idle, though above 2000 rpm it is nice and smooth, and the fuel consumption does not seem too bad. I feel like the engine has more to give however.
I'm going to do an engine rebuild on it for peace of mind, and am starting to worry about all these damn sensors that petrol engines seem to have (I'm a big diesel fan and have never touched a petrol engine before). I'll be putting in new plugs, HT leads, distributor cap and rotor, and will clean the throttle body and MAF. I'd also like to test the O2, throttle-position and knock sensors, and the engine coolant and air intake temperature sensors.
US market vehicles seem to have two O2 sensors, but the JDM has only one, in the engine bay somewhere, which is easy to swap out and relatively cheap. The one at the back of the cat is an exhaust gas temperature sensor (exclusive to JDM vehicles of the 1990s) which I cannot find for sale anywhere and has a list price of over $500, so I hope it works! It looks damn rusty down there too, and I'd be a bit scared to try to get it out. Have you touched either of these? The consunsus is that al these EGT probes do is warn you via a dashboard light that the cat is over temperature. I need new centre and rear exhausts too, which is going to cost...
The car may have an overheating problem, though the leaking radiator cap which is now replaced may have been the cause. In case the worst comes to the worst, would you be able to share where you got the cylinder head from? Was it a genuine Toyota part? I'm hoping mine will be OK with a skim and some new valves, possible guides and seats. What was the problem with yours?
Can I ask why you are taking the starter out?? With engine hot, my starter barely turns it over, whereas it cranks quite happily when cold. It might be a crappy battery, but somehow this goes against common sense, so I suspect that something else must be happening. I'll pull my starter while the engine is stripped down to replace the brushes and make sure the copper contacts on the switch are not pitted.
Another job will be to take out the LPG system that the car came with,
I just had a search for a knock-sensor and turned these up in the US:
Claims to be OEM but not sure:
*NEW* Toyota Lexus Engine Detonation Knock Sensor 89615-50010 *FREE SHIP* | eBay
Definitely OEM and a popular purchase:
OE DENSO TOYOTA LEXUS KNOCK SENSOR OE 89615-50010 A GENUINE DENSO PART | eBay
I'd be really grateful if you could share or point me in the direction of any good resources for the JDM 3RZ-FE Hilux Surf; FSM, fault codes etc etc as this is all new to me!
The ultimate aim for this truck is to build an extreme-cold weather overlander (hence not getting a diesel, I also don't like the 1KZs reputation for cracking heads and the 1KD has common rail electronic injection which is a no-go for countries with questionable fuel), so I need it to be bullet-proof reliable. I got the car very cheap so I'm happy to throw some money at it to get it really good.
Good luck fixing your Surf, you're almost there it seems!
Daniel
Last edited:
Similar threads
