help, antifreeze puddle
- Thread starter 3rdgengrog
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3rdgengrog
Member
I was afraid of that.
thegipper
New member
Look like a water pump / timing belt job is in your near future. It's really not that bad at all if you want to do it yourself. A complete parts kit is in the $250 range and it can easily be done on a Saturday if you want to save some money.
Depending on where you live, the price to have a shop do it is usually between $700-1000.
Depending on where you live, the price to have a shop do it is usually between $700-1000.
3rdgengrog
Member
update; I dont have the place or all the tools, unfortunately, to tackle this big of a project, so off to the shop she went. New hoses, drive belts, timing belt, and water pump, to the tune of $1300. :faint2: oh well, glad I didnt spent all of my Gov't check until now! thank you for the quick responses and help for my problem. this forum has given me a wealth of information and at times saved me a ton of money. y'all are a great bunch of people.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Too bad you don't have the space to work on your rig. A quality timing belt kit with everything you need, including the camshaft and crankshaft seals that I bet the shop didn't replace for you runs around $270. That means you could have saved around $1,000 buckaroonies doing this job yourself, and you can buy a whole lot of tools for $1k. Oh well, hopefully one day you'll have a garage or outbuilding with lots of space and tools to do your own work.
3rdgengrog
Member
one day, and im sure I'll reference your videos as I have in the past. you've saved me money more than a few times, thank you!
Crowcifier6
New member
Bummer on the bill...I did my water pump about a year and a half ago. When I pulled it off, the pump wasn't even bad. It was the gasket. I still put the new pump on, but just goes to show you, an $800 job might've been a $15 job.
Another thing to keep an eye on, is the coolant lines that go to the rear heater. Mine started leaking at a bracket holding them to the frame. The old lines are steel, but the replacement part was either aluminum or stainless. On my '98 4 cyl auto, they ran along the exhaust and up into the body on the passenger side. They see a lot of salt spray, and are easily overlooked when searching for leaks.
Another thing to keep an eye on, is the coolant lines that go to the rear heater. Mine started leaking at a bracket holding them to the frame. The old lines are steel, but the replacement part was either aluminum or stainless. On my '98 4 cyl auto, they ran along the exhaust and up into the body on the passenger side. They see a lot of salt spray, and are easily overlooked when searching for leaks.
3rdgengrog
Member
I dont have the rear heater, but would those lines still be there? I've never thought about looking for them.
Crowcifier6
New member
Doubt it, but can't say for sure.