I've got an 06 with 300k miles. I've had this rubbing sound for a few months, and just kind of neglected it, but going to do something about it now. Basically whenever I'm driving slow it's most pronounced. Through the neighborhood, or pulling up to a red light I hear it most. Doesn't matter if I'm braking or not, does it either way. Weird thing is it's easier to hear with the windows rolled up. It's hard to hear over engine noise, and over the wind, and that's why I hear it best when going slow with windows up. It's a rubbing sound that must have something to do with the wheel because it sounds like it's rotating, and it will rub for a sec then smooth then rub and so on.... Not a prolonged rub or smooth, depends on how quickly the wheel are turning. The slower you go the slower it rubs. Any ideas what this could be? My first thought was a wheel bearing, but I'm not really felling any play in the steering, or a shaky ride. It also doesn't matter if I turn the wheel right or left, it still does it. This site has saved me a lot of money over the years on repairs, so all input is greatly appreciated.
HELP!! Cannot diagnose rubbing sound
- Thread starter kevin1285
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Powder_Hound
New member
I'm not a rubbing expert, but there are some here on T4R.org that are. However, without suspension info, tires, rims, spacers, etc... you're not giving much info to help solve your mystery.
I hope you can figure it out.
I hope you can figure it out.
blue4run
Member
We can all guess all day but sounds like your going to need to get dirt or take it to a shop. Jack it up and turn each wheel. Check for the brake shield as sudjested. But could be something in the drivetrain anywhere from wheel bearing, cv, driveline and so on not much info to go on so get it on some jack and you may find your answer quick. Good luck and be careful.
It's a bad pinion bearing
You all were worrying me with the wheel bearing talk, so I popped into see if my mechanic would take a quick look with it jacked up. There's play in the pinon which shouldn't move, and they were quickly able to figure out that's the culprit. Basically my options are a new differential (not going to happen), getting my diff rebuilt, or buying a diff out of a junkyard and he said he'd install it for $200. My other option is of course to drive it until it breaks, which is what I'll most likely do with 300k miles. This is probably a sign that it's time to retire this Runner unless I can find a really good deal on one of those last two options.
You all were worrying me with the wheel bearing talk, so I popped into see if my mechanic would take a quick look with it jacked up. There's play in the pinon which shouldn't move, and they were quickly able to figure out that's the culprit. Basically my options are a new differential (not going to happen), getting my diff rebuilt, or buying a diff out of a junkyard and he said he'd install it for $200. My other option is of course to drive it until it breaks, which is what I'll most likely do with 300k miles. This is probably a sign that it's time to retire this Runner unless I can find a really good deal on one of those last two options.
Got a couple quotes today
Found a rear end differential in a junkyard for $500, and my guy would charge $200 to put it in. The $500 seems a bit steep to me considering it's coming out of a junkyard, but there's not many out there in junkyards. The other quote was for a rebuild, with all new bearings in the rear diff for $900. That being said, looks like I might just ride this thing into the grave and start looking for a new car unless I come across a better option.
Found a rear end differential in a junkyard for $500, and my guy would charge $200 to put it in. The $500 seems a bit steep to me considering it's coming out of a junkyard, but there's not many out there in junkyards. The other quote was for a rebuild, with all new bearings in the rear diff for $900. That being said, looks like I might just ride this thing into the grave and start looking for a new car unless I come across a better option.
Depending on the age/mileage 500 isn't bad. The biggest savings will come in not having to ship it. I just replaced mine and paid 750 for it after shipping for one with like 115k. The actuator got damaged in transit and they would only refund me the purchase price and not freight. So I was out $150. At $500 if you can guarantee it's functioning and not leaking and the mileage is around 100k I'd get it, but that's just me. FWIW I've now got 3 cases in my possession, if your actuator works fine, that one could be an option for you.
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