Help - Clunk from Rear Differential

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Four-CLT

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Sorry if this gets long. So, for the past 6 months I've noticed an intermittent clunking coming from the rear end.

It happens after backing up (out of a parking space for example) and shifting into drive. At this point most of the time I let of the brake, and it seems like something is holding the truck back. Then, if you press the gas like with any other vehicle, it lurches forward and you hear (and feel) 2-3 loud clunks. The number is dependent on how hard you gas it. However this doesn't happen every time.

What I've done:

Checked for axle seal leaks - no leaks
Checked fluid level - seems fine
Changed the differential fluid - fingernail sized piece of metal came out when drained and the fluid smelled rancid.

What was done by PO: Dealership fixed axle steal leak 2 years ago. No mention of damage on the Toyota Service History website.

Is this a carrier going/gone bad or is there something else I am missing? I've done my share of Google, but nothing definitive comes up.
 
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I know that clunk and have solved it before with the drive shaft lube, but this is different. Clunk, clunk, clunk.
 
Man!

I see you're locked as per your signature. I was looking for a rear diff. and found several with an e-locker. Up here in Canada everything is stupidly expensive but I was mildly surprised when I was quoted $600, from a wrecker, for a complete rear end with e-locker. In the states I would expect you should be able to find one for somewhat less---- wag:$400-500??? Anyone in the USA correct me??

If you've got metal in the lube, I'd say somethings' coming apart! My rear diff in my Chev let go a couple of years ago, just I was driving off a ferry on our annual family camping holiday (yes, I was towing a trailer!!) We were able to get to the campground but after we got settled, we took it out and every time I went into a corner, we heard a BANG from the rear! In a straight line: nothing. I got it to a shop and they got it apart and discovered a crack in the ring gear. When the mechanic took it for a test, he said, as he was driving back into his garage, it jammed completely and the rear tires locked! They got it back onto the hoist by jacking the rear on a dolly and gently driving it in! This Holiday cost me $$$$$$$$$$$$$...
 
poleclimber63 said:
I see you're locked as per your signature. I was looking for a rear diff. and found several with an e-locker. Up here in Canada everything is stupidly expensive but I was mildly surprised when I was quoted $600, from a wrecker, for a complete rear end with e-locker. In the states I would expect you should be able to find one for somewhat less---- wag:$400-500??? Anyone in the USA correct me??

If you've got metal in the lube, I'd say somethings' coming apart! My rear diff in my Chev let go a couple of years ago, just I was driving off a ferry on our annual family camping holiday (yes, I was towing a trailer!!) We were able to get to the campground but after we got settled, we took it out and every time I went into a corner, we heard a BANG from the rear! In a straight line: nothing. I got it to a shop and they got it apart and discovered a crack in the ring gear. When the mechanic took it for a test, he said, as he was driving back into his garage, it jammed completely and the rear tires locked! They got it back onto the hoist by jacking the rear on a dolly and gently driving it in! This Holiday cost me $$$$$$$$$$$$$...
Click to expand...

Replacement is sounding like the move to me. I think there are some in my area at salvage yards, I just have to verify my gear ratio. $350-400 USD is the range I've seen so far.
 
Metal chunks floating around the diff is no bueno, but have you checked the driveshaft for play? Might be worth doing before you drop coin on the diff.

Depending on how long you plan on keeping the truck, you might do better to rebuild your current diff instead of trusting a junkyard diff with an unknown past. Ring and pinion and a master setup kit will run you $300, plus or minus, and if you're willing to pull the third yourself (easy stuff) you can probably find a guy to handle the setup for under $200. And I don't mean a driveline shop, though you might get lucky if you call around, I mean get on your local offroaders board and find The Guy that everybody in the know takes their differentials to. You really want to be friends with That Guy, he can save you hundreds of dollars.
 
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Clunk in the diff if not driveshaft related is likely a broken ring and/or pinion. Could be just one tooth chipped off. Pull the third and inspect, it's about a 30 minute job to take it apart and it's quite easy. If it's just one tooth, you can clean, reseal, and run it until you figure out your replacement options. ;)
 
options...

Four-CLT said:
Replacement is sounding like the move to me. I think there are some in my area at salvage yards, I just have to verify my gear ratio. $350-400 USD is the range I've seen so far.
Click to expand...

You can verify ratios via the VIN. I don't have much experience with Toyota Diffs (I do with GM and that Suburban reman was $1600 CDN) but before you go ahead and visit the wrecker two other members have added their 2cents:

KidVermicious:
Metal chunks floating around the diff is no bueno, but have you checked the driveshaft for play? Might be worth doing before you drop coin on the diff.

Depending on how long you plan on keeping the truck, you might do better to rebuild your current diff instead of trusting a junkyard diff with an unknown past. Ring and pinion and a master setup kit will run you $300, plus or minus, and if you're willing to pull the third yourself (easy stuff) you can probably find a guy to handle the setup for under $200. And I don't mean a driveline shop, though you might get lucky if you call around, I mean get on your local offroaders board and find The Guy that everybody in the know takes their differentials to. You really want to be friends with That Guy, he can save you hundreds of dollars.

poleclimber63: Excellent advice! If you live in a large-ish city, this maybe relatively easy. Where I live, I'd have to travel a considerable distance... If you've got the patience, and you want to keep this truck, this might be worth it. As far as my Chev was concerned, I had no option, as we were 500miles from home and reman was the only option... apparently, those Chev rears go, no wrecker had one, and it was a 11.5" not the garden variety 11" on every other Chev truck!!! If I could have gone wrecker, I would have, because when I unloaded this truck, I sold it for $700 more than the rear replacement cost me!! Chev=rapid depreciation vs. Toyota=slow depreciation...... food for thought!

Coastal616:
Clunk in the diff if not driveshaft related is likely a broken ring and/or pinion. Could be just one tooth chipped off. Pull the third and inspect, it's about a 30 minute job to take it apart and it's quite easy. If it's just one tooth, you can clean, reseal, and run it until you figure out your replacement options. ;)

poleclimber63:These guys have obviously had experience doing this... again food for thought!

Good luck with your decision!
 
I drained my oil the other day after hearing a nasty pop from the rear end in a parking lot. Found around 5 pieces the size of kosher salt.

Kinda scary, but I am going to drive it till it explodes!
 
KidVermicious said:
Metal chunks floating around the diff is no bueno, but have you checked the driveshaft for play? Might be worth doing before you drop coin on the diff.

Depending on how long you plan on keeping the truck, you might do better to rebuild your current diff instead of trusting a junkyard diff with an unknown past. Ring and pinion and a master setup kit will run you $300, plus or minus, and if you're willing to pull the third yourself (easy stuff) you can probably find a guy to handle the setup for under $200. And I don't mean a driveline shop, though you might get lucky if you call around, I mean get on your local offroaders board and find The Guy that everybody in the know takes their differentials to. You really want to be friends with That Guy, he can save you hundreds of dollars.
Click to expand...

Alas, no play in the driveshaft. I would love to take the carrier off and have it rebuilt. Unfortunately this is my DD and I cannot give her up. Once I get the salvage carrier, I will have two and I will eventually have the problematic one rebuilt.
 
I've become the master of feathering the trottle to prevent the clunk, so I do think I have a little time to work out a solution. I will let you guys know that I do.

By the way, other than visual inspection is there anything I can do in order to test the used carrier? I'm assuming that I will be able to rotate it by hand to see if it's smooth.
 
I can tell you a little bit. First make sure it rotates nice and smooth, you don't want any grainyness or hesitation anywhere in the rotation. The pinion flange should not move in and out at all, and when you hold the ring gear and rotate the flange the play should be just detectable - a little slop is expected, but like I said just a tiny bit.

If you really want to get anal, take a dial gauge and some pinion paint.
 
I just got an elocked rear axle near Greensboro. When I got back I found a decent sized piece of metal stuck to the magnet. So now I have to pull the carrier to check it out. If you buy just the carrier at least you can inspect the gears.
 
rjaudi said:
I just got an elocked rear axle near Greensboro. When I got back I found a decent sized piece of metal stuck to the magnet. So now I have to pull the carrier to check it out. If you buy just the carrier at least you can inspect the gears.
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Did you get it in Thomasville?
 
No, I called them and the dude quickly said it was sold. The carriers are easier to correctly ID, but I will give you some advice. The people at these junkyards don't always know what they have. The key to finding a 4:30 locker is to tell them you need axle code A04A in the door jamb. I bought my entire axle I believe it was in Graham, NC for $350. They had it listed in car-part as a 4.30, non-locker, non-abs axle out of a limited. I called them and said whats the code they said A04A and I was on my way. So when you call places make sure to ask for A04A code.
 
rjaudi said:
No, I called them and the dude quickly said it was sold. The carriers are easier to correctly ID, but I will give you some advice. The people at these junkyards don't always know what they have. The key to finding a 4:30 locker is to tell them you need axle code A04A in the door jamb. I bought my entire axle I believe it was in Graham, NC for $350. They had it listed in car-part as a 4.30, non-locker, non-abs axle out of a limited. I called them and said whats the code they said A04A and I was on my way. So when you call places make sure to ask for A04A code.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. I'm starting to notice those codes on a few of the part listings.

A few more questions: Can I use a carrier assembly from a non-ABS axle on my ABS equiped truck? I know there is an ABS sensor that connects to my axle, but is it independent of the carrier assembly?
 
You could use a non-abs carrier, but that really doesn't exist since you need an elocked carrier. As far as I know the 4.30 gear ratio only came on elocker equipped 4runners. Like I said, you may need to look around different configurations on car-part, like 4.30 no locker, and you will probably find your part. I had an entire A04A axle lined up in Darlington, SC 2 weeks ago for 450 with 140k miles on it. That may be a good option for you.
 
hey man, im not really sure if we are having the same problem, but everytime i back up from my drive way it takes the car about a full second to respond and move, and when i go from reverse to drive it gives me a couple of audible thunks, and the car jerks a little. im not sure if this might be a lube issue, or is my tranny going?? i bought the truck like 2 months ago, i dont want it to die this soon :cry2:
 
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