HELP! Constantly breaking CV joints 2nd Gen 4runner

Jonny Fresh

New member
So far ive broken 4 CV axles in a matter of 2 months on my 1994 4runner. 2 where at Sunflower mine going up the massive hill, 1 was defiantly my fault/spotter where i was trying to punch it over a boulder at squeeze rock at sycamore creek when clearly my wheel was turning a bad direction. The 4th i have no idea how it broke, was on a pretty easy trail, mostly straight driving and we didn't even hear it break (they are breaking on the outer joint). It made me think something might be wrong with my rig that i could dial in better.

front: 4 inch lift new shocks, ball joint sapcers from 4crawler.com, diff drop
rear: has 4 inch lift, fj80 land cruiser coils and rancho shocks
has 35x12.50x15
5.29 gears, new master bearing kits, front and rear lock rite locker
front and rear lock rite lockers
 
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Did you go for the 2.5" ball joint spacers? I have seen many bad looking angles with and without the 1" diff drop from the 2.5" spacers. Those things look like a time bomb to me. You should measure your CV axle angle and consider ditching the BJ spacers or adding more to the diff drop.
 
So far ive broken 4 CV axles in a matter of 2 months on my 1994 4runner. 2 where at Sunflower mine going up the massive hill, 1 was defiantly my fault/spotter where i was trying to punch it over a boulder at squeeze rock at sycamore creek when clearly my wheel was turning a bad direction. The 4th i have no idea how it broke, was on a pretty easy trail, mostly straight driving and we didn't even hear it break (they are breaking on the outer joint). It made me think something might be wrong with my rig that i could dial in better.

front: 4 inch lift new shocks, ball joint sapcers from 4crawler.com, diff drop
rear: has 4 inch lift, fj80 land cruiser coils and rancho shocks
has 35x12.50x15
5.29 gears, new master bearing kits, front and rear lock rite locker
front and rear lock rite lockers

It's the locker. You can't turn off an automatic locker, so you need to a) learn how drive it without stressing the CV (protip - don't punch it over boulders :D) or b) ditch the Lockrite. You can go with a selectable if you still need the extra traction in front.

Did you go for the 2.5" ball joint spacers? I have seen many bad looking angles with and without the 1" diff drop from the 2.5" spacers. Those things look like a time bomb to me. You should measure your CV axle angle and consider ditching the BJ spacers or adding more to the diff drop.

There's no such thing as a 2.5" ball joint spacer. That's a marketing ploy by Fat Bob's Garage.


Quiet down, fish. Go get my axle out from under your truck.
 
It's the front locker. If the front wheels are a little bound-up, and especially if they are turned to the left or right, and you get on it, snap goes a CV.
 
Was thinking of putting a Spartan in the front diff but now I'm not so sure. Would a LSD like a TruTrac be better? Or is it still hard on the CVs? :typing:
 
Was thinking of putting a Spartan in the front diff but now I'm not so sure. Would a LSD like a TruTrac be better? Or is it still hard on the CVs? :typing:

TrueTrac is ok for traction in mud or sand, but useless in the rocks. As soon as you unload a front wheel it acts just like an open diff. Worst $500 I ever spent on my truck.

If you want a locker in the front, selectable is the way to go. Especially if you're rocking the IFS.
 
Thanks for the info KV. I'm only on the rocks, with the exception of an occasional trip to Glamis in the winter. I avoid mud like the plague. So I guess ARB is the only choice($$$)? Looks like I'll be a 3-wheeler for awhile. :sobbing:
 
TrueTrac is ok for traction in mud or sand, but useless in the rocks. As soon as you unload a front wheel it acts just like an open diff. Worst $500 I ever spent on my truck.

If you want a locker in the front, selectable is the way to go. Especially if you're rocking the IFS.

X2 on the selectable locker. I ran a truetrac in my '88 and it did little to nothing on the rocks. Selectable locker will be the easiest way to take the load off of the cv in tight turns and to keep traction when one of the front wheels unloads. I ended up swapping out to a Detroit but I also ran dual cases so I just slapped the twins into 2wd to prevent breaking stuff when getting on it in tight turns. Although mine was axle swapped, the concept is still the same. Especially running stock birfs before upgrading to longs. They are a little more expensive but worth every penny!
 
So I guess ARB is the only choice($$$)?

For the 7.5"? Yup. Like Slowpoke says, you can always use an automatic and get a twinstick to disengage the front but stay in low range when you don't want to stress the CVs. It's not ideal, but it's also half the price of an ARB.

But - by the time you need a locker in front, maybe it's time for an SAS anyway? I like the Toyota IFS for moderate wheeling, but it's true that the solid axle is stronger and easier to upgrade...
 
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You need these... Ultimate IFS CV Axles - RCV Off-Road Performance Products - CV Joints, Axle Kits, Tools

But they are pricey. Last I checked, about $800 a side? Maybe theyve gone down some.

35s are getting to the limits of IFS. When you upgrade parts, all your doing is moving the weak point around. So get RCV Cvs.. then youll start breaking Ring and Pinions, bending steering components, shearing hubs... Etc..

This is the reason many people move to a solid axle, my self included.
 
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winner winner chicken dinner!


it sounds like you are a perfect candidate for a straight axles swap.


but, barring that, as others have suggested, get rid of that auto locker, and swap in a selectable.

I don't think ARB is the only game out there, what about the ZIP? it is cheaper, and made for the 7.5" right?

I wheel with a few guys(in jeeps) that have them. they work great, no complaints.
 

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