Help! Coolant all gone in Radiator!
- Thread starter Fadiddy
- Start date
Mark_BC
Senior Member
I have a 97, 98, and 2000. My friend has a 97. Every single one of those had the coolant lines to the rear heater rust out and dump coolant. They run beside the passenger frame. Luckily for my 98 and 2000 I caught it before it overheated (as I was picking rust they ruptured). Unfortunately on the 97 the engine overheated and blew a head gasket. For 01/02 Toyota wised up and made them aluminum. I would say that every single 4runner 96-2000 in the rust belt has or will have this problem.
WWRD99
New member
The Antifreeze won't evaporate but the water mixed in will, out of the overflow bottle...a bad rad cap makes it worse.
Update...
Bought a ODBII scanner and pulled codes. Turns out multiple misfires on cylinder 1 & 4. I cross-referenced the 5VZFE firing order, and sure enough cylinders 1 & 4 work off of the same coil. Therefore, I believe the issue I am having with the rough idle is a bad coil. Ordered a used (but in working condition) OEM coil off of eBay and will try it this week.
I've been driving it around short distances just to make sure the coolant is not going down or the motor overheating, and so far so good. Could it really be just the coil? If so, this would be a godsend. I love the 3rd Gen's....my favorite 4Runner of all 4Runners I have owned.
Bought a ODBII scanner and pulled codes. Turns out multiple misfires on cylinder 1 & 4. I cross-referenced the 5VZFE firing order, and sure enough cylinders 1 & 4 work off of the same coil. Therefore, I believe the issue I am having with the rough idle is a bad coil. Ordered a used (but in working condition) OEM coil off of eBay and will try it this week.
I've been driving it around short distances just to make sure the coolant is not going down or the motor overheating, and so far so good. Could it really be just the coil? If so, this would be a godsend. I love the 3rd Gen's....my favorite 4Runner of all 4Runners I have owned.
dogtail
New member
Most times its just cracked coil boot arching out. Electrical parts of coils either work or they don't. The boots can be replaced on their own. Denso coil boots are cheap, they are coil boots/plug boots. Get a set of 3 on on Rockauto, should replace whenever you replace your plug wires.
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Man, that is good to know! Thanks bro!
I assume it's probably more than the boot because both cylinders are misfiring...so that would indicate the coil itself no? As you mentioned, the coil either works or it doesn't....so assuming both cylinders 1 & 4 are misfiring, it's probably a bad coil. I will check the boot like you said to make sure.
Thanks again!
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dogtail
New member
I think an arc in the boot can mess with the coil, as its going direct to ground. Check the easy stuff first. Pull the coil and you can see the boot rubber/silicone all dry and cracked.....and of course all wires, plugs and boots need to be good.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I agree, the spark plug is the ground in that circuit. So if the coil boot doesn't firmly connect with the spark plug, it cannot fire since it's not grounded at all. Not sure how that affects the slave cylinder though.
dogtail
New member
I happen to have a bad coil boot in my hoard of crap. Here you can see I squeeze it and you can see the cracks. This is how old coil boots get cause they dry out. The boots pop off the coil and you can replace them as my earlier post stated.
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Ok guys, here's some updates:
I ordered an oem used coil from eBay (Toyota original part) and installed it. Turned the car on, and it still sputters but not as bad. I ran diagnostics via OBDII and now it shows only misfire on cylinder #4 (before it was #1 & #4). I thought it might be the spark plug, so I swapped spark plugs with another cylinder and swapped the new coil pack I ordered onto a different cylinder. Turned the car on, and same thing...misfire on cylinder #4.
I am thinking the only thing left is fuel injector. You guys think it's something else?
Thanks.
I ordered an oem used coil from eBay (Toyota original part) and installed it. Turned the car on, and it still sputters but not as bad. I ran diagnostics via OBDII and now it shows only misfire on cylinder #4 (before it was #1 & #4). I thought it might be the spark plug, so I swapped spark plugs with another cylinder and swapped the new coil pack I ordered onto a different cylinder. Turned the car on, and same thing...misfire on cylinder #4.
I am thinking the only thing left is fuel injector. You guys think it's something else?
Thanks.
squirrelchill
New member
Any update on this?
I found a coolant leak along the lower intake manifold and around the water pump. Huge job and not worth buying anymore parts for this old motor. So I have decided to pull the motor out and replace/swap (See pics below). I am deciding whether to go with another 5VZFE or do a different motor swap. I like the idea of 1UZ or 2UZ, but I am not sure the complexity of those swaps. Right now, I am prepping the bay to remove the engine. Anyone have any advice on removing the trans, exhaust, and engine mount bolts? Probably gonna create a new thread on this next venture. Thanks.
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